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Hi. I have a Jinma 284 LT with the Y385T, 1999 Yangdong engine. I put a new starter/solenoid in and a new battery for this year. I know I needed at least these because of the problems I had at the end of last year. Last year, I would turn the key and just keep getting… click, click, click. Other times I would turn the key and get no noises at all. Part of that was a battery not able to hold a charge and the other part was the freezing up of the starter. I also suspected an ignition switch issue, but never replaced it. I was mostly resorting to crossing the poles on the solenoid to start the tractor, which I know is a No-No. Most of the time, even with a full battery charge, my starter wouldn't turn over unless I knocked the poop out of it. Finally I think my solenoid died due to the abuse.
Anyway, with the new starter/solenoid recently installed, I am still getting nothing when I turn the key to start. Not even clicks. I obviously don't want to cross poles anymore and go down that road again. So next, I'm thinking about replacing the JK290A ignition switch and also the clutch safety switch. All my fuses in the box look okay. For both switches, this is a another $50 investment and it's possible one or both are fine. Does anyone know how to test either of these items to see if they are faulty? What other items in the ignition-switch-to-starter-path could be the culprit? From a 1 – 10 scale, I am on the maybe 5 level for electrical troubleshooting.
Also, does anyone have a good muffler modification using a comparable muffler from TSC rather than the $100 Jinma replacement? I bought a TSC muffler last year. Its straight end fits into the Jinma muffler hole/flange (with the two bolt pattern). However, I don't know how to get the TSC muffler pipe to be secure in that hole. Right now it's just kind of just shoved in there and not secure at all, wobbly and all that.
Thanks for any help.
Kent
CTOA - Founder
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Check your cables first, the Positive and the Neg. where it attachs to the frame.The clutch switch can be jumped across with a wire or sticking a needle thru both wires, however make sure the tractor is in neutral with the brake set.This will eliminate it,it's prob. a bad key switch
Let me know if we can help you
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
“Your Jinma Parts Superstore”
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I am now having the same starter problem. I also have the jinma 284 and replaced the starter/solenoid last year. I started the tractor today a couple of times. I parked in front of my shop to do a couple things and when I came back out to start the tractor again…click, click, nothing. I thought maybe I blew a fuse, but all were fine. I tried to cross the poles on the solenoid and still nothing. I then brought my truck over and connected the positive right to the solenoid pole and the neg to the tractor body. This time it turned over once or twice and then started clicking. I tried crossing the poles again and got the engine to turn over maybe once.
I also don't want to abuse the solenoid. Could this be another started going bad? Is there a way to test the starter, maybe take it out and get it to turn over using battery jump cables?
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
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I HAVE A VERY SIMILAR PROBLEM WITH MY JINMA 254. STARTER SOLENOID COMPLETELY SIEZED LAST WINTER. COMPLETE TEAR DOWN OF SOLENOID, POLISHING CONTACTS AND WD-40 (JUST READ THAT WD-40 MAY BE A BAD CHOICE) FIXED IT FOR LAST WINTER. THIS WINTER, AFTER NON USE FOR AWHILE, IT TRIED TO CRANK ONCE AND THEN JUST THE CLICK. TEAR DOWN AGAIN DIDN'T HELP BUT EVERYTHING SEEMED NORMAL- IT WAS NOT SIEZED UP , BUT I DID NOT UNSOLDER WIRES ON THE END OF THE SOLENOID TO CHECK INSIDE CONTACTS. UPON REINSTALLING SOLENOID AND STARTER, I ENDED WITH A WHITE WIRE WITH A LARGE CONNECTOR WHICH I QUESTION GOING TO A LARGE SOLENOID TERMINALON NTHE SOLENOID WHERE OTHER WIRES ARE RED. I'M STILL IN A QUANDRY. I WAS HOPING I WOULD NOT HAVE TO TRACE ALL THE WIRES TO SWITCH, INTERLOCKS ETC BUT THAT SEEMS TO BE MY NEXT MOVE. I WOULD APPRECIATE ANY HELP.
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It’s not necessary to shout, or is your caps key stuck?
Thank you
And yes, WD-40 is a bad choice – for several reasons. It is a wet film lubricant/penetrant, and for that reason alone it attracts dust and dirt like a magnet, holds it in suspension, and turns into a nice abrasive gel. Mud. Albeit this is on a relatively small scale. Another reason is that any wet film lubricant will increase in viscosity exponentially as the ambient temperature plummets, which is exactly what you DON'T want. The best lubrication for solenoid operators (slugs) is graphite. Not affected by temperature, always “slippery”, and doesn't attract dust and dirt. The handiest method used to apply it is using Lock-Eez or equivalent.
Account deleted.
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These are the connections on my 284 that I think you are talking about.
Heavy Red wire(#1) from battery to large solenoid terminal. White wire (#2) with large connector from connector block in engine compartment to large solenoid terminal. Red wire (#11) from starter interrupt switch (under left floorboard) to small solenoid terminal.
RonJ
ronjin
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If you tear down the starter again, use aerosol brake cleaner to clean everything thoroughly. Almost all other spray can cleaners contain solvents that leave oily residues of some sort. Brake cleaner is the stuff to use since it leaves no residue to attract dirt and grit. Wait for it to dry and examine it very closely to be sure all traces of the gummed-up WD40 are gone (that stuff is a menace). Then throw away the WD40.
If you discover rust inside things, clean it up with a Scotchbrite abrasive pad or fine sandpaper, being sure to remove any residue. Be sure the slug (core) in the solenoid moves freely and easily and that the contacts are shiny clean. Then lube it up with the graphite spray.
If you can't find the graphite lock spray powder locally, you can use some sandpaper to create a graphite powder from the lead in a regular pencil. Blow it in where it needs to go with a small straw.
One common problem on Chinese tractors and dozers is that they don't supply adequate current to the stater solenoids. They use wire that is just too small, and they route the power to the solenoid through the starter switch and sometimes a safety cutout switch on the clutch. This is simple to fix: get a 12v universal accessory relay from the auto supply and some 10 gauge wire. Take the wire from the switch off the solenoid and hook it to the coil on the relay. Ground the other coil contact. Then run a piece of the #10 wire from the solenoid contact to the load contact on the relay. The other load contact on the relay goes directly to the battery, again using #10 wire. Now the switch is only handling the minimal current needed by the relay coil and the heavy lifting is handled by the relay contacts and heavy wire.
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