Forum › Forums › Tractor Troubleshooting › JInma 284 Rear axle housing removal
- This topic has 11 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 4 years, 7 months ago by DavidPrivett.
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May 8, 2020 at 6:50 pm #49244
Howdy, My left rear axle bearing disintegrated. How do I remove this axle housing so I can punch the old chunks of bearing out and press in new ones. My understanding is that this just pull out and the only thing that is holding it in is some oil seals on the inside. I tried a bunch of chisels to break it free but only got it about 1/4 inch. what is next wheel puller? if so I need some M10 25 cm bolts to get around the end of the axle. I don’t think they make those. Any recommendations. specific wheel puller to recommend? Is there something else I need to do to release it? Thanks!
see pic please.
Tom
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May 9, 2020 at 6:41 am #49246
maybe you could try a coupla c clamps on the housing and slide hammer and a extra set of hands . hopefully the bearing did not seize to the axle. good luck
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May 9, 2020 at 7:25 am #49247
you might want to put wedges between the axle housing and the rear end , the more slender the better and tap them as you are using the slide hammer be careful not to mar the mating surfaces to much, file flat if you distort where the gasket goes.
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May 9, 2020 at 8:44 am #49248
The parts book only shows the exploded view of the right hand side but I believe the axle is supposed to come out with the housing. The inner bearing is held onto the the axle with a snap ring that is inboard of the bearing. From the drawing it appears to be an internal snap ring that goes into a groove in the housing. If this is correct, the bearing is not a press fit in the housing.
There are two different drive gearboxes listed in my parts book. Version III and Version III (Double speed). I believe this is based on if you have a two speed PTO shaft. I’ll reference that model because that is the one I have. I think the parts for the axle are probably the same for each but the callout numbers are different.
There is a spanner nut (item 129 in my drawing, quantity 2) that appears to thread onto axle. This nut is inboard of the large 69 tooth bull gear that is splined to the axle.
There is a locking claw (number 132 in my book) that is attached to the left axle and I think it is held to the axle by circlip number 131.
I think you are going to have to take off the seat and the hydraulic tank/3 point cylinder to get to the inside of the rear end. Then take off the circlip and move the jaw out of the way so you can unscrew the spanner nut. This will allow the axle to come off with the housing so you can remove the inner snap ring to release the bearing from the housing.
I was under the impression that the axle was wet all the way out to the outer double seal but looking closer it appears that the inner bearing is wet while the outer one is lubed with a grease zerk. Now I need to go check my tractor (2006) and see if I have been neglecting a lube point. It would be interesting to know if you could leave out the inner seal and make the axle housing wet all the way out so that the outer bearing is lubed with 80W-90.
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May 9, 2020 at 9:18 am #49249
Oh My, Thank you. I was about to build my own wheel puller today and inadvertently completely destroy this thing. Its great how a different perspective looking at the drawings provides a whole different view point. I was way off. I thought the snap ring was clipped around the axle not the clipped in the housing. I thought the inner bearing was attached to the main gearbox not the axle housing. I see your point now. This is a much bigger project.
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May 9, 2020 at 3:01 pm #49250
Please take pictures as you work through this and post them for others to see.
I too learned something today. My tractor does indeed have grease zerks for the outer bearings. They were covered with a large round rubber cap that had been painted over. The caps looked like just part of the casting. Dang, I have had this tractor for 13 years with almost 800 hours and have never greased that bearing.
I hope there is a hole in the bearing outer race that gets aligned with the zerk. Something to look out for when you re-assemble it.
Also if your inner bearing really did grenade, you will want to be diligent about removing all the debris from the rear end and inspecting all of the teeth of every gear in there to make sure there was no damage.
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May 9, 2020 at 3:15 pm #49251
My zerk on that axle was broken off from the day I bought it. I kept meaning to fix it but I kept forgetting. The bearing sits just inside the zerk hole. when injecting grease, The grease is squeezed between the double oil seals which are stuffed in the outer cap and the bearing. Thus you can squeeze grease right into he bearing from the face of the bearing. I trust my inner bearings are good. but since I am doing this I will make sure they are perfect.
Reading up on the hydraulic tank removal I don’t think that will be too bad. Regarding the wet axle. it is funny that when I finally noticed the destroyed outer bearing by listening to some clanking like someone dropped silverware, I noticed gear oil all over the inside of the rear tire. Something did squirt out. I stick a flashlight between the axle and the disintegrated bearing and it looks dry. none the less some “event” happened.
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May 9, 2020 at 3:23 pm #49252
Take a look at the parts list on the Circle G web site. The picture for the left housing shows a groove where the snap ring sits. This means the bearing comes off with the housing but it can’t go over the axle shaft because there is a ridge on the shaft and a washer that rides on the bearing.
Also if you look at the picture of the axle shaft and zoom in you can see the threads for the nut cut into the splines of the shaft itself.
The parts diagram on the Circle G website is actually more readable than the printed book. Plus they have actual photos of most of the parts. Very helpful!
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May 9, 2020 at 3:37 pm #49253
Yep, I follow the circleG diagrams. That what I have been using and I like the zoom feature. Its funny that your diagram numbers don’t match the diagram numbers from my parts book and neither match the circleg numbers. None the less there is enough clarity to make progress.
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May 10, 2020 at 7:21 pm #49258
This was a huge effort. Something I never wanted to do and hope to never do again.
I got the axle removed. Had to break it down to this level to take off the spanner nut.my inner oil seal is also destroyed and since I am here I might as well replace my inner bearing. Since I have it broken down this far I might as well do the other axle bearings too.
the axle shaft itself is looking pretty bad where the bearings ground into it. I think I need to replace that too.Attachments:
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May 10, 2020 at 10:20 pm #49261
When the outer bearing went it probably changed the angle of the axle just enough to put stress on the inner bearing and seals. Replacing those items is a good idea.l If you wind up taking the other side apart, you can use that axle to judge how much damage was done to the left one. Hopefully it will still be usable.
From what I can see in the pictures the inside of the rear end looks really good. Hopefully there is not any debris in the bottom and there was no metal floating around to damage the inner parts. You probably dodged a bullet there.
Good work!
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May 11, 2020 at 7:23 am #49262
I have a 50 hp foton and a 20 hp dong feng , I do not believe there are any zerks on my rear ends but I am gonna look. wow!
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