Jinma 284 Y385 gauge & filter conversions

Do you know what year it is? There should be an ID plate on the rear fender with serial number and production date.

Mine was made in October of 2006. I may have some of the filter information you need if yours is close to the same age.

That being said, who knows if there were changes in the middle of a particular year?

I haven’t looked at the threads of the sending units for temp and pressure. Probably the only way to know for sure is to take them off and measure. On mine at least the coolant drain valve on the left side of the engine block turned out to actually be standard NPT. Shocked the heck out of me but made replacing the valve a piece of cake!

Since all of your instruments are dead, I would first check fuses, then follow wires. Other possibilities include bad ground and bad key switch. The key switch is a known weak point on these tractors. There is a Ford part number that serves as a replacement for a lot of them.

Do the instrument cluster lights come on? If they don’t it may not mean anything but if they do it would be good news for the ground connection of the instrument cluster.

Oil pressure, amp meter and water temp should be easy if you can get the correct sending units. Tachometer, hour meter and fuel level will be harder to accomplish. On mine the tach is electronic and feeds off of a hall effect type pickup on the flywheel. Finding something that can properly count the pulses might be difficult.

I would replace the switch and see what else comes back to life, since you know it is bad.

I think quite a few of these machines use pipe thread for fluids although they can be cut loose or tight, but that is the way a lot of parts are on them.

Raymond Hatfield wrote:

I hope to get back into it today. I will take new pics of the engine tag & look for a fender tag. I want to get the fluids changed as soon as I can, also. I’ve been reading a lot of these old posts and saw where someone replaced gauges with mechanical & went to SAE from metric. I assume they retapped the holes.

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You cannot re-tap metric to SAE. You must use adapters.

Raymond Hatfield wrote:

Once again the photos wouldn’t go. I can’t figure that part out.

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Maybe they are too large. Maximum size is 1,000 kb. Not very big.

Is this the switch you want? https://www.amazon.com/E7NN11N501AB-New-Ignition-Ford-Holland/dp/B00YFQ5D3Y

See if these instructions will work for you:

New “Ford” Switch connections:
Pin / connection
1 / off connect to hot (+12 )
2 / Run 1 accessories N/C or connect to any axillary circuits
3 / to glow plugs
4 / Run 2 or ON connect to lights
5 / starter solenoid (through clutch safety switch)

Here are the contacts vs key position:
Key position starting all the way CCW.

0 – OFF (no connection) except +12 to the switch
1 – (1 click CW) Pin 1+2 (Accys only)
2 – (2 clicks CW) Pin 1+2+4 (Run position lights+accys)
3 – (3 clicks CW Spring return back to 2) 1+3 (Glow Plugs only)
4 – (4 clicks CW Spring return back to 2) 1+3+5 (start+glow plugs)

I believe this is the pinout for your switch:

Here is a “schematic” that I have on file. Not very good but might help.

Dang it, just barely too big. I posted it on my web site here:

http://harnerfarm.net/Jinma/Jinma284.html

Found a file about the Ford switch too. Put it on the same page.

From an old list it would appear that two different oil filters were used.

20mm JXD706P translates to NAPA 1626 or Fram PH3935 or WIX51381

3/4″ JXD707P crosses to NAPA 1516 or Fram 3600 (Mine uses this)

Fuel filter CXD706 (marked CX0706 on filter) crosses to NAPA 3195 or Fram P6503

Air filter 385T-1-1500 is NAPA FIL2276 or WIX42276 or Donaldson P181050 (Mine uses this)

Hope this helps

Winter before last the 3rd glow plug died so when I replaced them all at the same time I went ahead and wired in a solenoid. It was really easy to do. I tapped the power off of the ammeter and used that to feed the glow plugs through the solenoid using an adequate sized wire instead of that skinny stuff from the factory. That way I could see the power draw on the meter and that will tell me if the plugs are working or not. The original glow plug output from the switch was routed to the “trigger” side of the solenoid. This way the key and ammeter still work as originally designed but the high current draw avoids the key switch. This is the original key switch on my 2007 tractor and it has had hard glow plug use for 10 years before I got around to this upgrade.

yes you have to keep their numbers in check to keep their damage to a minimum, I wish they were bigger I hate cleaning them to get not that much.

I found the trick to keeping the squirrels at bay. Feed them peanuts far away from your equipment. I also place bait traps in my equipment to take care of the rats and mice. I just chalk it up to the cost of owning equipment.

I think the lawn mower relays the base is not used as a ground so a ground will need to be connected to a term on the relay so it will pull, why they were engineered that way I do not have a clue, maybe to much plastic in the mowers?

sounds like you are getting the issues on the run, glad to read. A lot of times typing out answers is tough VS. seeing it and making a call.

We have almost all of the parts for these tractors let us know if we can help

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
“Your Jinma Parts Superstore”
http://www.affordabletractorsalesco.com
979-865-4002

Making good progress Raymond.

It depends on the tractor I have a foton that the tach is with the hour meter , my dong feng has the hour meter separate because it has no tach. but to the glow plugs, they have a copper bar that goes between the three of them . Take it off use a ohm meter one lead to the block and the other to the glow plug post , you should read only a few ohms of resistance . if you can not get a reading it is open, replace it. You can also use a hand held ammeter and the battery, if you want a description of how to do that just ask.

this is a guess but the fuse will be real close to popping . I guess you could just wire it to one  see how many amps it pulls then times three and add a few amps for cushion .

That should be sufficient. When really cold (-20 or more) my glow plugs will pull close to 30 amps but that quickly reduces as they heat up. The 12ga wire can handle that much load for a short time but the fuse won’t so if you start popping fuses you will know for sure.

From the factory the glow plug current ran through the ammeter and the key switch. When I installed a solenoid for the glow plugs I wired it so the key switch only carried the current for the solenoid but pulled the glow plug current from the ammeter side so I could still monitor the draw. Done this way, if a glow plug burns out you will be able to see it in the reduced current.

I used either 12ga or 10ga wire, don’t remember which. It was a lot bigger than the original that is for sure!

Factory tach or after market?

There are optical tachometers available. You could put something shiny on the fan blade and register off of that. You have to make sure the crankshaft and fan pulleys were the same size or do some math.

You might also be able to use an A/C powered florescent light in a dark location to see if you can get the strobe effect going on the fan. Put a mark on one of the blades (or crankshaft pulley) and adjust the throttle until the mark appears to stand still. The RPM will be a multiple of the 60Hz A/C current so it should strobe still at 600 RPM and at other multiples too.

At least I think the math is right, feel free to correct me if I am wrong.

Raymond Hatfield wrote:

As far as the new tach goes, what is the best way to confirm accuracy? There appears to be a pot for some type of adjustment on the back side.

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If the tach you bought is for your tractor it is already calibrated and no adjustment is necessary, but a photo-tach would be your best bet if you felt the need. I compared my tach to a photo-tach and found the difference negligible. 1,800 r/m on the tach should give 540 r/m at the PTO.

Sounds like perhaps not all of the glow plugs are working, or working correctly. Simple rough test – connect one glow plug at a time and see how far the ammeter drops in 15 seconds for each one.

Now that you have a digital hand held tach you can mark the sweet spot on your tachometer for the PTO with arrows from your label maker.

I suspect that you have one or two bad glow plugs because you should show at least a 20+ ampere draw on your meter. Internally shunted ammeters have a maximum 60 amp rating, but I’m guessing yours is 30-0-30 (30 amps) so it should almost peg the needle momentarily when you activate your glow plugs.

I believe the stock pumps are rated 7 gpm @ 2,200 psig. The flow is dependent on engine speed. Higher capacity pumps are available if there is room to fit them between the housing and starter motor. I don’t think they will fit on the two cylinder engines.

Yeah, with only a ~10 amp draw, you definitely have a bad glow plug.

Glad you’re still getting some use from it.

We are closed until Monday,however the tach needle will not reset until it gets 12 volt power,check your wiring.when you turn the key switch on yo give it power it will drop to zero.They all do this

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales

did you check the pick up on the flywheel , make sure it is clean and I think turn it in till it just touches then back it out about 1 turn

Good news.

I think that initially you should show around 8 amps per glow plug, and that will go down as the plugs heat up. Don’t energize the plugs for more that 10 to 12 seconds.

Raymond Hatfield wrote:

I have been triggering them for about 30 seconds

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That’s going to reduce their life span. They don’t get any hotter after 10 to 12 seconds. All you are trying to do with them is warm the air in the combustion chamber, not warm the entire engine. But it’s your call.

I like that volt/ammeter. Where did you get it?

Raymond Hatfield wrote:

OK, I got a glow plug out. It measured 3 ohms, but I used my jump box to put 12v on it and it glowed red.

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Yes, that’s a good one. About how long did it take for it to turn red? 4-5 seconds? If you connect it in series with the shunt you will be able to see the actual amperage draw on your ammeter.

So, 3 ohms at 12 volts equals 4 amps (48 watts).

Raymond Hatfield wrote:

I didn’t count the seconds but it was less than 10. Wouldn’t that be 40 amps?

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Less than ten seconds is good, that means that ten seconds is all you need for any particular starting cycle.

I’m assuming you have a fully charged battery at 12 volts nominal, so:

The voltage V in volts (V) is equal to the current I in amps (A) times the resistance R in ohms (Ω):

V(v) = I(a) x R(Ω)

Maybe you have it confused with 48 watts?

Raymond Hatfield wrote:

I am confused. 4A x 0.3 ohm = 1.2V

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I thought you originally said 3 ohms.

3 ohms is what I read in his description , I think .3 ohms would be to little amount for a resistive heater coil , would lead me to think a internal short. But 3 ohms is what he wrote earlier.

Actually, I’d expect to see between 1 and 2 ohms for a brand new plug, but 3 will still work. I don’t think it would be working at all if it were .3 ohms.

Let us know what you think of it when you get it going. I have thought about those but instead just used a digital voltmeter without the amp display ,and been fairly happy with them but have had some failures.

I think that meter will require an external voltage source to work. That should be from your key switch. And make sure it’s grounded too. It looks like there is a pigtail for that. Curious how it will work for you.

Raymond Hatfield wrote:

I am going to try and wire it up using 2 jump boxes first, just to see if I can get it to work. The diagrams show a voltage adjust so I hope I don’t have to do any tweaking.

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Yeah, that “voltage adjust” has me curious. Aren’t they supposed to be already calibrated? I guess you compare it to a multimeter?

As in wiring diagram #3 the “power supply” voltage can be anywhere from 4.5 vdc to 30 vdc. This would be from your key switch or your battery. The red “PW+” wire is to sense what voltage is to be tested and self calibrates to that. The yellow and black shunt wires are self explanatory and follow the current flow path. As I understand it, the shunt isn’t needed for loads under 10 amps, just like a multimeter.

So this is just like a multimeter, which has an internal battery instead of an external power source, except that it reads volts and amps simultaneously.

I’m looking at that schematic right now and I don’t see how you could test a glow plug without powering it up. You missed something. Got a pic?

I think I would try to wire without the shunt and just look for the voltage readout to light up with the correct voltage that you are putting in.

Aha! Is this the unit that you bought? It shows an independent power source for the meter.

https://www.ebay.com/i/192263756818?chn=ps&var=492193720301

Try hooking your meter up like this.

David is correct. It’s not likely the load will be over 10 amps for one plug, so just omit the shunt.

the voltage drop is because of the under sized wire that they use building the tractors, some have wired in relays to overcome the voltage drop much like with the starter wiring issues there are. I did the relay on the starter, I do not need the glow plugs much so I did not do them, I would if I lived further north. I am in  s.e. tn. I would think if you do put in a relay watch the time you use them more amps will go to them making more heat quicker. use # 10 ga. wire.

so I assume that the feed to the relay has been upsized and comes from the battery or hot side of starter motor relay and the heat position on the key switch activates the relay.

12 might be ok it is just 10 would give you more amps to the glow plugs

Apparently the battery is not recovering after you remove the load.

I would say you got your starting issues well under control with the tractor, time to work on the truck something is not right with that much time on a heater and a no start

I agree with David. Sounds like your block heater on the truck isn’t working. What kind of truck is it? Some trucks do have glow plugs. My Ford Powerstroke does.

if you have a gm diesel be careful I hear they are bad about breaking off and if that happens it is off with the heads. and to do that the cab will have to be removed.   that is just stupid! ford is that way on other parts. engineers should have to fix this stuff!

That is the only way they can get ten pounds of crap into a five pound bag.

For my F350 it’s $1,000 to R&R the body.

two of my friends have the Duramax  and they both let the dealer do it cause they do not want the broken off glow plugs on them, if the dealer breaks them they eat it. if you have a check engine light on it might go out when they are replaced and if you have remote start that might start working also.

good going on the truck, I have never done glow plugs on a 6.5 just heard nightmare stories that might have been blown out of proportion . And those hooks are a very good addition.

Good going Ray. I dread having to do that on my 6.4 Powerstoke. I can’t even see the engine, but I know it’s in there somewhere.

Bob  my 96 dodge cummins uses a heater manifold ( that has been trouble free) why have the other diesels still use the glow plugs, I heard that the cummins that Nissan titan truck has a ceramic glow plugs that supposedly last the life of the engine. but why use them?

Cummins has always used manifold cold starting aids, even on their larger engines. At one time they even had an ether injector into the manifold. I remember on the old Fairbanks-Morse direct reversible marine engines we took off a manifold cover and literally built a fire in there with oily paper, closed it up and then started the engine. Why other diesels don’t use a manifold cold starting aid is a question for the design engineers, but I’ll speculate that “We’ve always done it that way.” I have a neighbor that has a Nissan/Cummins truck. Very nice, quiet too. He loves it. Here’s a short read on glow plugs.

http://www.topcustomproduct.com/steel-versus-ceramic-glow-plugs/