- This topic has 22 replies, 9 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 7 months ago by
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Sounds like the fork may be bent. If you take side cover off you can see what is going on. We will have any part you need for your tractor. http://www.circlegtractorparts.com
Phillip
Circle G Tractor Sales, Inc.
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Hmmm, I didn't want the same thing to happen a third time so I left the 4wd engaged for the tar road drive. Now it feels like the 4wd is clicking into engaged/disengaged but no 4wd again. I'll check the engagement fork inside the tranny to see if it broken but where else might I lose my 4wd?
Ron
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There are steel balls in a sort of CV joint on either end of the driveshaft, and a c-clip on the shaft. The problem will be in the front. The c-clip may have broke or popped out, the balls no longer in place. Un bolt the driveshaft at the front and push back, be ready to catch the balls as they fall out. Grease them to keep them in place during re assembly. I've never had to do this but it's so common I can write this from memory of all the posts
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Well, I got the driveshaft partially removed and in 2wd I can spin it when tranny is in neutral. disconnected the back and same story. Which is normal…ish if the bearings came out. OK, how do I go about getting to anything. The spring travel is only about 1/2″. The large collar just left of the grease fitting slides but only about 1/4″ and hits the smaller collar on the spline. No bearings fell out and I can't even get a finger tip in anywhere. A little stuck.
Ron
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The collar to the left that you can see the spline on is what moves ,just the one on the back side of the shaft not the front ?? You do not need to take the bolts out of that part that you did. Go to the backside of the small splined shaft collapse the spring and the shaft will drop down back end first. The balls are inside of the smaller couplings that ride on the splined shaft
Look in your parts book it will show you where the ball bearings go
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
“Your Jinma Parts Superstore”
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Four wheel drive on my Jinma 354 has stopped working. Cannot move the 2WD/4WD lever all the way into the 4WD position, just almost. Took it apart but found no obvious problem. Then I slid the cover to take a look at the drive train near the front axle. Does not look “right” to me especially when compared to the photo on this thread. Any advice?
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Let me see if I understand:
1 I did not need to unbolt. I will re-bolt it and grease it.
2 is the small splined shaft that compresses a spring it I move it to the left.
3 is the part with the balls in it?
4 is where the balls should fall out of and there should be a C clip holding them?
5 is the driveshaft cover that got slightly crushed. Must have bottomed out.
So I go to the left end of the splined shaft that is bolted to the 2wd/4wd selector case and compress the spring and THAT end will drop down allowing me to slide the assembly to the left and it will separate at #4.
Am I even close?
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On the rear of Shaft # 2 is another coupler like # 3, that will compress a spring and allow the complete shaft to drop down,yes part 3- is where the balls are.
Once you expose the rear coupler, you will see that it will slide towards the front of the tractor and drop down
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
“Your Jinma Parts Superstore”
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Not sure whats going on there,but if you need it we have the complete 4 x 4 boxes with all the internal parts already installed, so you just have to swap it out.
You will prob, need to remove yours take the cover off the top and see whats going on inside, unless you just twisted axle shaft off which is possible
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
“Your Jinma Parts Superstore”
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Well I lifted the front end. If I spin a tire the other does not turn opposite nor does the Driving Gear turn. I can hear inside the final drive on both sides a BDDDDddddddrrrrrrr sound. If that helps. As far as the gap on the bottom of the differential Axel Housing the bolts were loose. Other side was tight. maybe the person who assembled it got tired. I tightened them and the gap is closed.
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I'm pretty good at helping figure out problems but this
BDDDDddddddrrrrrrr sound. Has got me !!!!!!!!!!
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
“Your Jinma Parts Superstore”
http://www.affordabletractoralesco.com
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Well, as was said earlier, at this point I'm thinking it may be easiest to remove the power steering cylinder and the Dust Cover from the front of the differential. Looking at the book it appears that would give me a view of the inside of the differential to see what's turning and what's not.
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Hello,
I hope that you have your tractor fixed but if not I would suggest that you jack it up, block it well and pull the front drive axle out and take it apart. It is a very simple device and it will be easy to figure the problem out once it is dissembled. When i picked up my 354 last year it had no Front drive. I suspected that it would be a spider gear in the front dif. What it turned out to be was the left drive axle snapped off at the area between the shaft and splines. The cause of the failure was that the PO had failed to keep the studs holding the axle tube to the center differential properly tightened this caused a misalignment putting the axle under stress.
My 354 has a FRL and I suspect it was worked pretty hard. This probably caused the axle housing studs to work loose.
Good Luck,
Jim B
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