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Hi, I was wondering if I could get a couple of ideas that could be causing an overheating issue that I have with my Jinma 354. I use it mainly just to bush hog my fields, and it has worked well for years. I do routinely change out the fluids and change the thermostat every couple of years. It runs fine when not under a load (like bush hogging), even at full power, and runs fine using the front end loader. But if it is under full power and under a load it heats up slowly, but will continue climbing until it reaches the red mark and would continue I’m sure if I let it.
I’ve gone so far as to change out the radiator as well as coolant, and thermostat.
The tractor is in fairly solid shape, with the only thing that has a crack is the exhaust pipe over the years. Doesn’t leak any fluids. I haven’t checked the water pump pressure, but I do lube it through the grease fitting, and it hasn’t made any bearing noise or any leaks from it either.
Kind of at a stand still.
Any ideas?
Thanks for the help. :wacko: -
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I have/had this problem with my 254, just while bush hogging though. (Maybe that is because this really the only time I have had rpm high on it for an extended period of time.) The temperature will climb steadily till it is almost redline. That is When I stop the mower and let the rpm’s go down to an idle. This would bring the temperature down, where I could start mowing again. Happened really just on the warmer days.
Kind of watched these forums and about the only thing I could see might be an answer is just making sure the radiator was free of the chaffe and weeds debree. Couldn’t see where anything was leaking, or gasket blown, or radiator low……
Wouldn’t have to worry about it the past couple days. Temp below freeing during the day
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First some questions:
Is your gauge marked in degrees or just in ranges?
As mentioned above, is your gauge accurate?
Have you pressure checked the system and the radiator cap?
At what outside air temperature does this occur?
Do you use an anti-freeze mix? If so, what ratio?
Once we know these things it will be easier to devise a troubleshooting plan.
As always, check the easy/cheap items first.
It is possible that you have hit the max heat transfer capabilities of your system at a given OAT. There may also be something faulty.
I just came in from 2 hours of snow blowing with my 284 at -10°F and the temp gauge never got above 50°C! I may stuff a piece of cardboard in front of part of the radiator tomorrow.
Bring your 354 to ND and see if it will overheat up here! 😉
Stuart
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I think these diesel tractors need to run at 180 F to 195F for the oil to work right. Let me say this also some these Chinese tractors are not engineered to the best as for electrical systems and cooling . My 50 hp no problems with cooling some electrical problems yes. My 20 hp tractor cooling system tuff to get a good operating temp tends to run cold in winter, summer you have to watch how much load you put it under or it will run hot.as 5 ft. finish mower no problem, 4 ft tiller you have to watch the temp gauge when tilling over 30 min. if ground is real hard.
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Yeah, I think the manual calls for warm up to above 70°C before working the tractor hard. I rarely see temps that warm unless it is really hot out or when I had a radiator leak and let it get too low. At -10F I bet I can block the whole radiator and it won’t overheat. I know I sure won’t!
Unfortunately I know what you mean :yes: I’ve shoveled about 1/8 mile (at least) of paths and trails like this twice, and they’re all buried again. I wasn’t ready for this, so they’ve all been done with a snow shovel :negative: This has been going on for a week, we’re supposed to have a heat wave up to 27 with freezing rain, then back to below zero and snow for another week. I’m running out of energy to keep doing this, and I don’t think my cardiologist would be amused. Oh well, like they say, what doesn’t kill you, makes you wish it did! :whistle:
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No snowblower Bob, with a gravel driveway I’d be afraid of flinging rocks everywhere. I have a 94 Polaris Sportsman 400 I need to get back in running shape (I rebuilt the carb, it’s on the workbench) and work on setting up a plow this summer. Here’s a few more pics, the first one is our Subaru I’ve woke up to most mornings to clean off to go to work. The second is the third time clearing a path to the chicken coop to take care of the ladies in picture 3 :good: That path had a spur going over to the patio and back porch, two times was enough for clearing that one and I gave up. There are spurs off the previous pic going to the driveway, the shipping container, the tractor shed, and the garage. I think the total is more like a 1/4 mile, easy. Then three times cutting out a few parking spaces at the store. :wacko: We’re finally supposed to get a break, below zero tonight, warm enough to rain/sleet next week. :yahoo:
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I may get one if I can find one at a yard sale or something like that, this has been out of the ordinary. People here are comparing it to a 1993 storm season but this is way more snow. The 1993 storm was a 4 foot dump in November, then below freezing temps all the way until April kept the snow on the ground all winter. This is a snow dump, day after day after day. Go to http://www.KTVZ.com and check out all the roof collapses. One was a former mill building that had 7 Million worth of trucks and RV’s in it that are now scrap, another was a Fed Ex warehouse, another mill in Prineville, and scariest of all the entire roof of an elementary school gym landed on the floor of the building. Thank God nobody was in it at the time.
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Not yet, these were taken at 8:30 Monday morning, We just got a dusting over ice about two hours ago. That’s a roof snow rake in the first picture leaning against the house. I ordered it from Amazon and paid $8.99 for next day ship. The “next day” was the day the Fed Ex building was condemned due to a collapsing roof. I got it 4 days later. Ironically that warehouse was only used for overnight deliveries, had I used the regular Prime 2 day it would have arrived 2 days earlier. :scratch:
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