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After some other repairs that were handled by my land manager, I finally got out to my property and was excited to get some work started. (08 Jinma 454, with RanchHand loader valve kit)
After fast idling the tractor @ about 1200 for 5-10 min (was trying to jump start a D3) I noticed hyd fluid blowing out of the fitting below the FEL mount. The lines leading to the joystick valve seemed abnormally hot to me. (felt like it would burn to touch more than an instant.
Once I got the fitting tightened, I ran through dumping a load of gravel, and found a few things:
1. The lowering speed of the FEL seemed quite slow compared to my memory.
2. The Float function does not work.. Rather than releasing the load, it RAISED the FEL.
3. Again, the lines seemed abnormally hot with very little work done.I am planning to disassemble and look @ o-rings, or for anything visibly stuck. My mechanical skills are moderate, hydraulic knowledge/skills are beginner.
Does anyone with valve experience have any ideas, tips or pointers for troubleshooting something like this?
(Supposedly nobody had monkeyed with the insides of the stick, but I noticed the lines were all marked relative to position on the body, something that should have faded since I bought it from Ranchhand in 09 – I mention this in case Mis-assembly is a possible issue)
Thanks for the support!
James -
Do you still have the instructions that came with Ronald’s valve kit? That should illustrate the proper hose connections, but it does sound to me like there are some hoses crossed.
Did you get the D3 started? FYI, the alternator on your tractor only has a 14 amp output, unless it’s been upgraded.
Account deleted.
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I probably do still have Ron’s instructions. Although they are likely buried in storage along with the chinese manuals from that time. I did not get the D3 going yet, its battery and the alternator for the Jinma are in the truck, all prepped for a visit to Napa in the morning.
So here’s the funny thing… while looking around, I gave things a try per this video.(& the solution found in its comments.)
Apparently the loader valve seems to be ok, The kicker is actually the 3pt control being out of adjustment. The lever was all the way up, and apparently constantly trying to push the 3pt through the frame. Lowering the lever took all the load and heat off the Hyd system, and the loader control functioned properly.
Now for the new rub. My 3pt control has never been “right”. Currently, I would say about 98% of the throw does nothing at all. The last 1-2% takes it from bottomed to all the way up.
I just purchased a stump grinder that will require much finer adjustment than all the way up, or all the way down, soCan anyone point me toward the procedure to adjust the 3pt travel per lever distance?
I have not yet tried the flow adjustment under the front seat, tho from what I have read about its function so far, I am not hopeful that is the solution. (But damn hopeful to hear that it might be)
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as best as I know the knob under or around the seat is to control the speed which the three point operates, I never touch mine I have always left it almost closed,(a few turns back from closed) If you have a single hydro pump set up I guess that knob would have to be adjusted to make things work. If you have two hydro pumps as one for the loader and one for the three point the only common thing is for the engine to be running I believe. In your video the way your joystick operates I would have guessed it is defective. Do you know how many hydro sumps you have?
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@ DavidPrivett: I am pretty sure it is a single pump, single sump at the rear. I too, have never messed with the knob before, and after a look (w/o a magnifier) yesterday, pretty sure I may have to dig through paint to even find the set screw for it.
The 3PH lift is controlled by a single lever, and from what I have read, the bottom 50% of its travel should be the draft control, with the top 50% being the positional control. With no load yesterday, only the very tip top (~1-2%ish) affected the position I am going to add an implement today, and see if those ranges change any with weight.
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I think there is a draft control for the three-point on the 454. That could be part of the problem.
It definitely has draft control on there. If there is any adjustment to the draft on the backside, it is very possible it was never set correctly, or I have altered it when loosening and removing the draft to access the triangular Hyd PTO port underneath when installing and removing a JM-03 backhoe attachment.
From what I have read.. the bottom 50% of the 3PH lever throw should be the draft control, with the top 50 being positional. It only moved the arms yesterday at the very tip top of the throw, and since I bought it, has maybe had a max positional throw of 5-10%, leaning closer to 5. -
so yours has a single lever to control draft and height , see my 20 hp uses a single lever control lift and a more like a float function but my 50 hp has two levers one for height the other draft. It will be interesting what you come up with. but you say the fluid is making the hoses hot seems like that would be a severe restriction or bad or incorrect circulation in the system
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@ DavidPrivett – The fluid getting hot is a somewhat solved problem, but intimately linked to the super short 3ph travel. Either there is no upper stop, or a mechanical stop fell off, so the fluid was only getting hot if I had the lever ALL the way up. It was continuing to try to push the 3ph up constantly, so the pressures got wonky, and it got hot. At least that seems to be the observation. Setting the 3ph lever down just a hair until it was enough to take the pressure off was enough to alleviate the hot lines, and funky joystick function. It kinda blew my mind, but things have not overheated in 2 days as long as I make sure to check that placement.
I am not sure where the draft comes in, but I moved a little gravel today, and set the 3ph from 97%(ish) to around 80%ish.. As I was traveling to the pile and back, I heard the clanking of my 3p arms dragging on the ground. Decided to try adjusting them upward tomorrow as I was driving home.
@ Bob Rooks I did get the D3 going today. All she needed to get started was a new battery. ($200.. ouch) But her alternator seems dead. No additional voltage when its running. Back to Napa tomorrow it seems.
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