Max running temp Jinma 284?

Well that is only 175° F so I don’t think it is too hot. I have listings for both 180° and 195° thermostat replacements. Of course we don’t know how accurate the gauges are. I suspect your temps are just fine and the thermostat is working properly.

Tire pressure is listed in kPa of 180-200 for front and rear at 100- 120 for field and 120 – 140 for transportation.

180-200 = 26 – 29 PSI

100-120 = 14.5 to 17.5 PSI

120-140 = 17.5 to 20 PSI

I usually run a little more in the front if I am doing heavy lifting with the loader or if I am working on a hard surface like asphalt. a little lower pressure gives better traction in soft dirt or snow.

hope this helps

I agree with Piper, 176° is just fine, in fact just a tad cool for thermal efficiency. I run my TY395 engine at 185° – 190° and it loves it. You can notice the difference. This also allows any accumulated moisture in the oil to boil out.

Also, be sure to check your radiator core for blockages, this is a common problem when brush hogging. Many, myself included, install a furnace filter in front of the radiator to keep it clean.

In ND my tractor does more work in the winter than summer so you are more likely to find a piece of cardboard in front of my radiator than a filter.  😉

I do like the filter idea though, will have to keep that in mind.

Keeping the hydraulics in the operating temp range can be really hard at -20F and a 30 MPH wind. The oil in the loader cylinders will cool down if you don’t cycle them every couple of minutes. If you dump too much cold oil back into the sump it will cool the 3 point lift down enough that it won’t raise without extra effort. Oh well, it is March, this can’t last much longer…

Piper, do you use a multi-vis hydraulic oil?

Raymond Hatfield wrote:

As crazy as it sounds, I was Bush hogging today at 25°F. I worked it pretty good, but within an hour it climbed above 80°C. I would let it sit in it would quickly cool down to 45 to 50, but then working it again it would jump back up over 80. What is the upper running temperature of this tractor? And on another note, does anybody know the actual tire pressure for the front and rear tires? And I don’t need a smart a#% comment about reading the pressure on the tire because I don’t read Chinese. Thanks for any help.

Quote

My McConnell Mark 425XL (Jinma254) was running hot when I was brush hogging. The battery on mine was mounted right in front of the radiator blocking about have of it. I remounted the battery back by the clutch pedal between the fender and the seat in a plastic RV battery box and still have plenty of room for my foot to work the clutch. I reversed the pos cable back to the battery….the negative cable is grounded to the ROPS bar. I also put a recovery bottle on it. So far so good…no more running hot…..can brush hog all day long

Larry D wrote:

Raymond Hatfield wrote:

As crazy as it sounds, I was Bush hogging today at 25°F. I worked it pretty good, but within an hour it climbed above 80°C. I would let it sit in it would quickly cool down to 45 to 50, but then working it again it would jump back up over 80. What is the upper running temperature of this tractor? And on another note, does anybody know the actual tire pressure for the front and rear tires? And I don’t need a smart a#% comment about reading the pressure on the tire because I don’t read Chinese. Thanks for any help.

Quote

My McConnell Mark 425XL (Jinma254) was running hot when I was brush hogging. The battery on mine was mounted right in front of the radiator blocking about have of it. I remounted the battery back by the clutch pedal between the fender and the seat in a plastic RV battery box and still have plenty of room for my foot to work the clutch. I reversed the pos cable back to the battery….the negative cable is grounded to the ROPS bar. I also put a recovery bottle on it. So far so good…no more running hot…..now I can brush hog all day long

Quote

good, you know at the least getting the batt. out of the way is gonna make cleaning the radiator much easier. Though I would think it would be better if the ground cable went to the engine block,(your highest amp draw is the starter) every joint-seem is a potential for added ground resistance.

Typically I run “All Season” fluid of one kind or another. Usually the cheap stuff doesn’t have any specs about weight or ISO numbers. Unfortunately I put some ISO46 in it this fall which really made things worse.

The under the seat tank is really only large enough for power steering and the 3 point. Adding the front end loader really makes me wish for more capacity in the tank. If I am working on a pile and running the front end up a ways it just blows out the vent tube and it doesn’t have to lose much to start sucking air. I have been toying with the idea of making a recovery bottle and strapping it to the ROPS frame about even with the top of the seat back.

A couple of years back I took the upper link housing off and tapped it for 1/2″ NPT. Then I installed a 125 watt oil tank heater, It really helps. I plug it in for a while before plugging in the 1000 Watt tank heater for the engine. Then after I get it started I unplug the engine heater but let the oil heater go while exercising the cylinders to get everything warmed up. It works pretty good until it gets below about -15 then the system will cool off faster than energy can be put back in by the little pump.

is there a 12 volt heating tape like the 120 volt water pipe heating tape you could wrap around the 4 cylinders and layer some wrap around insulation? but with that I would think a bigger alternator would be required. maybe you should check and see if there is a synthetic hydro. oil that would meet the tractors requirements and have a thinner weight. I know that there is a 0 – something weight engine oil now.

Could you slap a couple of these on your hydraulic reservoir? We have used the 120 volt versions on the outboard motors of our rescue boats and they work great.

https://www.etrailer.com/Vehicle-Heaters/Kats-Heaters/KH23075.html

Bob, Now that is interesting. I didn’t know they made 12 volt versions. I have used the 110 volt versions in various applications but chose the internal heater because I figured it would be more effective. Trying to heat the oil through all that cast iron from the outside takes quite a lot of energy input. However, using these as “heat loss prevention” has some merit. I have a 60A alternator so power is available.

Dave, Your idea about insulating the tank is one I have thought about, but now leads me to think about insulating the loader cylinders as they would have the greatest ability to dissipate heat. I am thinking of using PVC pipe filled with expanding foam insulation. Cut the pipe in half lengthwise and “clamshell” it onto the cylinder with some big hose clamps. Easy on and off.

Once I get a fluid recovery bottle set up so that I quit wasting fluid down the back axle housing I can put in proper (more expensive) fluid.

Thanks for the ideas guys.

I have seen in other posts where the same issue of blowing oil was remedied by just running a clear hose up the ROPS support. Stuff some bronze wool in the end to keep the bugs out.

Good news Ray. Making good progress. Grounding always seems to be an issue with these tractors. At least it’s simple.

it does not take much arcing to cause a 20 amp fuse to pop, you will be good to go now though.

If the exterior of the radiator is not plugged that still leaves the inside as well as your thoughts of water pump or thermostat. There could be plugging issues in the engine or hoses as well.

Try this. With the engine cold take the radiator cap off and observe the coolant level. Start the tractor and continuously watch the coolant.

Cold you should see none or very little disturbance (flow) of the coolant. As the engine warms and the thermostat opens you should see the flow increase. Also the coolant level should rise as the coolant expands from heat.

Once the engine is up to operating temp you should be seeing at least some flow and some rise in the coolant level. If the radiator is blocked the coolant is likely to overflow. If the pump or thermostat have failed you won’t see much (or any) flow.

If you suspect the radiator is plugged you can drain the coolant and remove the bottom hose. Run water from a garden hose in the filler neck and watch the flow out the bottom. This would also be a good time to remove the thermostat and have a look. I know some places say it won’t work but I have always had good luck testing thermostats in a pot of water using a thermometer to see when it opens. Just remember to stir every now and again.

If the radiator is plugged you could try a flush kit from any auto parts store. Just follow the instructions and refill with new antifreeze and distilled water. Tap water is a radiator killer.

It is unlikely that the pump has failed but it could happen. Perhaps the impellers have rusted off or have come loose from the shaft. Stranger things have happened.

yeah you need to take care of this now think about it overheating it in august time wise. I know it has been wrote about before but in case you missed it take some 3/8  hard copper and bend a slow 90 degree bend in( it or use a premade elbow) and squish the end to make a fan spray attach what ever fittings to hook it to a garden hose and use it to spray from the fan  outward  thru the radiator reversing the flow of normal air with water you should get more junk to come out that is lodged in cooling fins. of course tractor OFF. This is a part of normal maint. to keep cooling system in good shape.

using air is better than not doing it but water softens the debris and allows it to be moved out cause it is soft now. but that is not sayin that it is the total problem it still easily could be a thermostat.

Raymond Hatfield wrote:

I pulled my 8N’s radiator & hose sprayed it out, but it was a pain in the butt. I was hoping not to have to do it on this, but I’ve got discing to do in the next few weeks. It’s always seemed like junk in the fins has been the problem w/every heat issues I’ve dealt with before, but I blew it out really good at the end of the fall w/air last year. Time is the biggest factor. There just ain’t enough of it.

Quote

So, do you think installing a furnace filter in front of the radiator is a crappy idea? I mentioned it to you before but maybe you missed it. It really works great. I’d hate to tell you I told you so.

Well that is a possibility, but don’t jump to conclusions. The bubbles could just be the pump cavitation. Of course it could be a cracked head, but don’t go there either just yet.

It could be just a thermostat that is stuck open. Or if this tractor is new to you it is possible the previous owner removed the thermostat in trying to solve some other cause of temperature issues. I have seen engines overheat when the thermostat was completely removed. Seems backwards but there is an explanation for it.

Have you been loosing coolant lately? How about oil consumption?

When the engine is up to temp and you rev it up under load do you see black or white  or blue smoke from the exhaust?

Drain some oil out of the engine and look for water. If none found it may not be head or block related.

Technically it is possible for a head, block or gasket problem to only leak one way into the coolant, they usually leak both ways. A good radiator pressure tester is called for here. If you don’t have one, given the possible problems you are facing it will be a cheap tool to help you out and it will be useful in the future.

Drain enough coolant to get below the thermostat housing and then check that out first. Easiest to do and cheapest to fix.

That is where I would start next.

Let us know what you find.

Best of luck.

you might want to ask around to see if anyone you know has a diesel engine compression gauge that would give you some info. so you can figure this out. Harbor freight used to have them less than 100.00 if I remember right.

I have one of these, and they are very accurate.

Fishing is good for the soul. You can also get those Block Checks at any NAPA store if that’s more convenient.

The reason that “no thermostat” will cause overheating, particularly under heavy continuous load, is that the coolant doesn’t spend enough time in residence in the core tubes, rather rushes right through without dissipating much heat so the heat absorption is cumulative to the saturation point and that’s when the temperature starts to climb and won’t stop until the load is removed.

Thermostats help to cool an engine as well as warm it up. This is why I hate old wives tales.

Exactly! Heat transfer takes time. How much time depends on heat differential and substances involved. If you think about fast moving coolant having trouble releasing the heat you have to also consider the reverse about it absorbing the heat from the metal of the engine. How much hotter is the head and block than it was designed to be when the coolant temp shows overheat on the gauge?

Proper oil quantity and type are also important to engine cooling. Most people are shocked at how much oil flows through that little pump in a minute at full RPM.

re: Reply to Bob’s post …Ding Ding Ding! Couldn’t have said it better myself.

Raymond Hatfield wrote:

Affordable also said that these engines should never need a coolant reservoir because they are designed to run under boiling conditions. If they boil over, something needs fixed. I ordered my parts & can’t wait to get it put back together.

Quote

Here is where Tommy and I disagree.

If the engines were “designed to run under boiling conditions”, they wouldn’t use a pressure cap on the radiator. What would be the point then?

Backing up a little, you want the least amount of air in a cooling system (none is good) because air enhances cavitation, and cavitation creates erosion, particularly around cylinder liners (hot spots where the piston rings flip), and coolant pump impellers (turbulence). So you want the radiator to be as full as possible, like right up to the neck. Ok, now we all know that heat expands and cold contracts. Now apply that law of physics to the coolant in your engine. A radiator full of coolant (with no air) will expand a certain amount and needs somewhere to go, but first there needs to be enough expansion (pressure) to lift the radiator cap. When that point is reached the cap seal opens and the excess coolant is expelled through the overflow tube. All well and good because the radiator is still full of coolant, and no air. Now, when it comes time to warm down the engine and let temperatures equalize the coolant begins to contract. There is a vacuum relief valve in the radiator cap that opens to prevent the radiator from imploding, and in doing so lets air back into the system. That is where the coolant reservoir comes in. It allows the otherwise expelled coolant to be drawn back into the system instead of air. This also allows for the use of a higher temperature thermostat (better thermal equilibrium in engine components). But why would you want that, you ask? Thermal efficiency. 185°F to 195°F (85°C to 90°C) is ideal for these engines. It greatly reduces the amount of soot in the exhaust and oil, and offers more efficient fuel combustion from a hotter combustion chamber. It also allows accumulated moisture in the oil to vaporize (boil off). It will also give lower fuel consumption. These engines adapt very well to modern concepts. I have been running a 185°F thermostat in my dozer for the past 700 odd hours and it runs sweet. I also periodically run oil analysis checks, which many people don’t do, but I just like to know what’s going on, such as bearing wear, coolant cross-contamination, fuel dilution, etc. I consider $15,000 an investment I want to take good care of. I also have aftermarket coolant filters on all my equipment, as well as coolant recovery reservoirs. It’s very cheap insurance.

I probably left out a few other good points, but I think you get the idea.

In seeking very high thermal efficiency, Cummins Engine and the US Army did some testing…. Oilless bearings??

https://www.sae.org/publications/technical-papers/content/840428/

Raymond Hatfield wrote:

I think his point was to watch out for what is making the engine run hot.

Quote

Wasn’t my take at all. I understood him to mean that a coolant recovery system was unnecessary because the engines were designed to run cold (anything under 160°F/71°C), and if it didn’t come from the factory with it you don’t need it. While it is true that you don’t need improvements for the tractor to run and operate, you do need them to operate more efficiently and dependably.

If you go with the hotter thermostat you will notice the difference in performance.

Ultimately, it’s your call.

Well, not sure how this got all turned around Bob,we don’t think these tractors need to boil over ( That was never in the conversation OP had with my Son ), we tried to explain they do not have a overflow tank, and that they tractors needed to have a operational Thermostat to work properly?? This customers tractor may not have had a thermostat and we were trying to explain why it needed one ? Not sure how this got turned around like it was how it worked

The most common overheating problem on the Chinese tractors is the Radiator is not getting enough flow through it due to being clogged up and dirty, a bad or non working thermostat,no thermostat,bad radiator cap, ect.

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
“Your Jinma Parts Superstore”

No worries Tommy, I will defer to your judgement from now on.