- This topic has 9 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 11 years, 2 months ago by
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Postgenerate wrote:
“Am I forced to pay 3x the price for the ZL-20.165 cylinder from the standard on-line sellers?”
What are the cost comparisons? Do you know what an OEM cylinder costs? Are you aware that aftermarket cylinders can incur extra shipping costs?
Someone can probably help you if you gave the cylinder/rod/travel dimensions.
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Even given the fact that Chinese steel is somewhat under spec, it would take a hell of a lot of pressure (more than CBN316 can develop) to “rupture” a cylinder wall. How did you get your little Chinese pump to develop that much pressure? Something isn't making sense to me here. That said, you can look at Burden's or Bailey's for a replacement, though you may have to do some welding to make it work.
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Postgenerate
I just replaced a cylinder on my ZL30 in July. It cost around $360 including shipping from Affordable Tractor. I haven't found the same size aftermarket cylinder with the right size hose fittings, but I am sure someone can make one up for you. I needed to get my FEL up & running and Tommy always gives GREAT service and sent one to me in a few days after calling him.
I am also curious to find out what you were doing when the end of the cylinder blew. Also if you find a replacement for 3Xs less ($120) let us know.
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I re-read the OP's post. I don't think he realized what he asked, but I think I can safely answer his question. I don't think any of the dealers that support this website will charge anyone three times over the sale price for anything, and forcing you to pay more amounts to extortion, which is a big no-no.
And so far I don't think he's heard anything he wanted to hear, but I hope he responds.
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We have a online order for 1- ZL-20 cylinder, but I'm not sure if it's from this poster or not, the buyer is from AZ, and since there is no profile I'm not sure if its the same person
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
“Your Jinma Parts Superstore”
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Hi Guys, Sorry, I was up in the hills when I posted and couldn't get back until now. To answer your questions.
What was I doing? I had my bucket caught in a tree branch. I was going in reverse trying to pull away from the tree. I was not trying to pull the tree down. The bucket was just caught. The Tractor tipped sideways and put an huge amount of pressure on one side. I was not working the controls so all the valves were closed. I think that is why the pump is ok. The place where the rod end screws in has some hairline cracks about 1″ in up the casing or bore where fluid squirts out.
Affordable tractor: Yes that is my order.
Comparison: I searched online for 3 hours but could not find an identical stroke, resting length, bore size, pin size. etc. I found many in the $100 range that I could work with. but I would probably have to buy two so the match and I would still have to make modifications. to it. Affordable had the best online price that I could find to just fix it and forget it.
Thanks all for the reply.
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A couple of years ago I bent the rods in my bucket cylinders when I snagged the bucket back dragging in the way you're not supposed to do. There's a reason you shouldn't do it that way, with the bucket tipped down and I proved it. Dumb. I had the same experience when I went looking for cheaper alternatives on cylinders – with a lot of work I could have made some of them work, but it simply wasn't worth the time. At my shop rate it was cheaper to buy new OEM cylinders from Tommy. I did straighten the bent rods in the press and used them while waiting for the new ones and they worked but were ruining the seals as they weren't perfectly straight.
If the cracks in your cylinder are not in the path of travel of the piston you can probably get away with welding it. If the piston does reach that area, then forget welding as you'll not be likely to get the thing honed out to the proper diameter again.
If you do weld it, be sure to stress relieve the weld area afterwards by heating to around 450°F and cooling in still air.
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