Forum › Forums › Tractor Troubleshooting › New Plugs/ Won’t Start?
- This topic has 10 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 6 months ago by Bob Rooks.
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May 9, 2015 at 12:33 pm #31022
Hi All
Yangdong Y385T……it was tough to start, but it would start after cranking a while, so I replaced the fuel filter, air filter, oil and filter (since I was doing all this other stuff anyway) and the 3 glow plugs. Didn't seem like any mystery to the plugs, I've done them in my cars forever, I put them in exactly like the old ones came out….but now it won't fire up at all.
Thought maybe I had air in the fuel line but I cranked with the ringed air escape valve open.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance.
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May 9, 2015 at 12:54 pm #37726
I will of course do the electrical checks, but I thought I might be missing something obvious. Do all Y385s have a compression release lever?
Thx
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May 9, 2015 at 1:14 pm #37727
Never mind. Found the compression release lever. Never used it before. I'll try that. Its frustrating that other than difficult to start, its been running great for years.
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May 10, 2015 at 1:06 pm #37738
checked the plug circuit with the volt meter. I'm getting no juice to the plug bus bar wire. No power downstream from the key switch on the plug circuit. Volt meter is grounded well, shows 12 volts off the battery. But….here's the curious part. When I got to the fuse box, there was no fuse where the input and output wires for the plug circuit went. The two 30 amp fuses are there, but that's not where the green # 39 (bus bar wire) and the green #12 (key switch wire) meet up. So, I put a 30 amp fuse in…and…nothing. Then I checked farther upstream and had no power downstream from the key switch anyway….
But, that means I've been starting without plugs for….who knows how long? So, I checked and theres fuel flow at the injectors, its turning over fast (jumped to my truck)….if it started before, why won't it start now???
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May 10, 2015 at 1:10 pm #37739
Took the key switch out, ordering a new one. I wonder if the old thin oil allowed more heat to build up so it would start without the plugs?
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May 10, 2015 at 4:31 pm #37741
Hi Clayton,
Fuel, air and compression – necessary factors for diesel engine combustion. One of these is missing.
If you removed the valve cover to mess with the glow plugs you have to ensure the decompression lever fork seats correctly on the pin, otherwise when you tighten the cover nuts the valves will be held open giving the symptoms you describe. Check this first.
My engine doesn't need glow to start either when I have a fully charged battery.
Dozer YCT306S shuttle shift - root rake, tree-pusher, backhoe
Excavator Hyundai 17 tonQLD, Australia
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May 10, 2015 at 7:32 pm #37748
People have installed relays in the glow plug circuit for that very reason, to avoid having the high amperage inrush go through the key switch.
What weight / type of engine oil are you using? This can make a difference in cold weather. A 15w-40 oil that meets API CH-4, CG-4, CF-4, CE such as Chevron Delo 400LE or Shell Rotella T.
Account deleted.
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May 11, 2015 at 12:55 am #37752
here are a couple of things that may help you with the glow plug wiring:
ronjin
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May 11, 2015 at 6:45 pm #37755
Bob, Ron,
Thank you. Helpful info. I'll get that valve cover off and see what I've got. It has to be compression. Air and fuel are good. Thanks for the electrical block diagrams. Very helpful.
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May 18, 2015 at 5:46 pm #37796
Well we haven't heard back from Clayton so I expect he fixed the problem.
Dozer YCT306S shuttle shift - root rake, tree-pusher, backhoe
Excavator Hyundai 17 tonQLD, Australia
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May 18, 2015 at 7:00 pm #37797
Clayton,
Air, fuel, and compression is correct, but there is one element missing. Timing. They must occur in a specific sequence. If your compression release isn't working, you remove compression from the equation.
Clayton may be a “taker”. Gets all the info they need to effect repairs and never gives any feedback. Hundreds out there like that.
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