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I am new to this site, i have a 2012 Jinma 284. recently it started to spit oil, it looks like it was coming from around and under the injector pump, however, after cleaning up and checking nuts and bolts (all tight) i started the engine and the oil was oozing out of the oil filter, all around where the filter screw in, Maybe a clogged filter i thought. I drain the oil (level was good), and installed a new oil filter. When trying to refill the oil the oil did not want to go in, it overflowed and just filled up the area under the valve cover. Need help solving this problem.
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Oil leaking at the filter is usually either a wrong filter or a loose filter. Sometimes the gasket from the old filter sticks to the adapter and will cause the new filter to not seal properly.
You listed make model and year of the tractor but what engine is in the tractor?
Can you post a picture of where it was leaking and where you put the oil in?
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Ok Piper thanks for your reply, the engine us 28HP yc395 something like that, anyway as i mentioned the oil was profusely oozing out of the oil filter, after inspection the gasket or seal on the oil filter was in good condition, filter was a baldwin, from last spring oil change, and the flange was clean. filling the oil at the normal place on top of the valve cover was weird, never seen this before on any engine, the oil just filled the the valve cover right up to the fill port and stay there, it finally when in about 10 minutes later? Could the breather from the air intake manifold cause that, or the breather hose from the crankcase. my oil pressure is always high it will drop at low idle only.
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That is strange. Could be you just had a defective oil filter. It does happen from time to time. Baldwin is usually a good filter. It could be the cross reference was bad or the filter wasn’t what it said it was on the box.
My 284 has the Y385 engine and I have had good luck with Fram 3600 filters. I think your engine is the QC385 which is EPA compliant for 2012.
The oil filling things gives me two thoughts. If you “fast filled” the valve cover, you maybe flooded all the return galleys at once and had an air-lock set up. It took a few minutes for one of the galleys to clear and let some air escape the crankcase so the rest of the oil could drain in.
My 2006 Y385 is pre EPA crap and it has a plain old breather cap sticking out of the right side of the engine block. It has a metal mesh inside that needs cleaning from time to time. You might look for something like that.
The air line that runs from the oil filler cap to the intake manifold is supposed to extract oil fumes and blow-by and recirculate it into the combustion chamber. That shouldn’t effect oil fill up.
Fill it to the full mark and run it to see what happens.
Let us know either way to help someone else that might have this issue.
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Hi Piper
Thank you for your inputs, i changed the oil filter yesterday with a NAPA 1347 (rebranded WIX51347) and added what i had left for oil but, 3 Lt is not enough so i am going to the big town to get more.I will reply later, and list the Baldwin filter # and the result of starting the tractor, i hope the oil gets to or circulate where it needs to be, don’t want to run the engine dry and seize it.
I purchase this tractor last year and right away i changed the oil and filter, fuel filter, hydraulic filter and injection pump oil, transmission and axel oil. It has run great all winter except for the tie rod link where the previous owner did a bad repair, i have since replaced the ball joints and link and align the wheels.
This oil leak problem worries me. oil oozing out of the filter as if it is not screwed all the way is something to be seen.
Ok i will post the results later.
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I think just to be able to write this off as a possible problem, if you have a tread pitch gauge you might want to check the nipple that the oil filter goes on they can be metric or sae . I know I converted my filter housing to sae so it will take a more standard filter that what the manf. had used. Then double check the filter itself to make sure the are the same. Some filter threads are close between metric and sae but will bind usually so if that is happening maybe your not as tight as thought.
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Well it all went sour today, a real kick below the belt. A new oil filter NAPA 1347 the old one was baldwin B161-S, and fresh Rotella oil 15-40, turn the key to start the engine and all i got was a very loud clonk and stop, did it 2 more times and the same result, it momentarily turn and immediately stop with a loud clonk it shake the tractor. Is my engine gone? tomorrow i will take the fan belt off and try to turn it to see if the engine turn. Could it be an almost dead battery i can check that as well. Pulling straws here.
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I did not have time to work on the tractor, too many jobs around the house, however i did notice something strange, i did replaced the oil filter and fill the oil with the proper amount but looking at the dipstick it show 3 times the normal amount as if it was overfilled. I have no idea why. The oil does not smell like antifreeze or diesel. and is still very clear since the engine has not run.
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look at your hydro oil level some have had issues with hydro pumps going bad and dumping hydro oil in crankcase. some of these chinese engines have a thing about checking the dipsticks . If I pull and read mine it will show overfull , what has to be done is pull the stick wipe it off reinsert it and then read the level to get a good reading, also if yours is a screw down stick do not screw it down read it on top of the threads.
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Ok i had some free time to look at it. I separated the FEL to get access to the engine. 1 i replace an O ring from one of the port on the injector pump = leak stop. 2 lifted valve cover to look for damage none found, loosen the injector and crank the engine, tighten up everything. oil dipstick still read way overfill so i drain some oil now read at proper level. No smell of antifreeze in the oil and it is quite clear as it was all new oil. started the engine and it smoked quite heavily for a few seconds and then purr like a kitten. run the tractor for a while and check the oil level, it was at the bottom indicator so added oil to the proper level, run it for about 15 minuted stop check oil and it was about 1/4 inch above top mark? still have no idea about the initial failure where the oil was oozing out of the oil filter. notice a very small leak at the head gasket will fix later i have a spare. Also retrieve the bottom part of the hydro dipstick that fell inside the hydro tank. Hydro level was low so maybe it is migrating in the crankcase, the hydro pump is located on the side of the crankcase, it it gear driven by the crank somehow? gasket failure? any help is welcome i think this oil failure will rear its ugly head again. I will closely monitor engine and hydro oil levels if hydro is migrating to the crankcase i should be able to see engine oil go up the hydro go down.
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Before you go to far , since you have things semi figured out . Why don’t you pull the valve cover again and retorque the head , if it has not be done before and set the valves so you will know that it has been done. That is something that should be done at 50 to 100 hrs. when new. But I guess you do not know that it was preformed so do it yourself so you know. It might get rid of that leak too.
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Yes make sense the leak is very small, do you know the torque setting for the head and valve lash. I attached a pic of the identification plate on the engine. I ran the tractor for about 15 min again yesterday, let it rest and then check the oil level a few times to make sure and did notice a small increase on the oil level on the dipstick. No noticeable drop on the hydro or coolant that i can tell, and no discernible smell on the oil. Quite puzzling, i still suspect hydro oil or fuel migrating but cannot really see how the hydro oil would make its way in the crankcase. If the crankcase become so full of oil would it cause enough pressure in the system and force it out of the oil filter rim? Also on my dashboard the oil pressure dial, the needle always swing to 10 or max when the engine run, once in a while will drop to 4~6 at idle. PS: i did run the engine without the valve cover and oil was flying out of the ports, what a mess won’t do that again.
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I think in the past people have deadheaded the hydros by having the hoses to the loader reversed or the control valve go bad ,that blows the hydro pump seal allowing oil to run into the crankcase. I changed out the oil pressure gauge to a psi one, if you do not want to do that add a tee or if there is a spare oil port somewhere add a mechanical gauge as a way to double check electric one. I will try to remember to look for head torque values.
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Ok going back to the initial post where the Hydro oil is migrating into the engine, turns out that there is a Hydro pump repair kit available for Jinma tractor 2009 and newer, the kit cost me 45$ US and was straight forward to replace, re-install the pump back on the tractor and voila problem solved no more oil migrating into the engine. I do have a question however, there is 4 bolts on the pump 2 are to fasten the pump to the tractor and 2 to hold the pump together, i can’t find the torque setting for these bolts, i just took a guess. The bolts holding the pump together i just torque them enough to get the lock washer flush.
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