Operation of a Kama TS254C

A Kama 254 is a rebadged Jinma 254/284 . How are you at tracing wires? Do you have a simple test light? That would be good for testing fuses and the fuse box. Those are available at any parts store for -$5.00.  An ohm meter would be good to have too as you could tell if a wire is a ground instantly without frying anything. (If you have a Harbor Freight nearby they usually have coupons for free ones) And if you suspect a wire is ,say, a headlight wire, with an ohm meter you can test your theories by checking the loose plugs at that end, to the plugs at the headlight to see if you have continuity. If so, your theory is correct.  I’ll take a few pictures of the 3 point and  PTO controls. Do you have a loader? Have you checked the level in the hydraulic fluid tank?

3 point may not go down without some weight on it. Try standing on it.

Your transmission clicking issue I can’t help with other than suggesting you check all fluid levels to start. Here are some pics of rear controls. These are on my Dec 2007 tractor, I would think yours would be similar. The first picture is your 3 point up/down lever. The second is a knob under the front of seat that diverts fluid from the 3 point to the rear hydraulics (for a dump cart , log splitter, etc) . It’s rarely used. The third is for PTO speed.

Hey  Tinbender  ( not to change the subject ) did you ever do your 50 hr. re-torque ???  Kind of been waiting for your expert guidance on this one.  As I just went over 60 hrs on my 284/254.

Many thanks !!!!!!

Tone-Tone

No, I’ve been run over with projects. Perhaps after I paint the 40′ Shipping Container and during our short fall season when I’m least likely to use it . I think I’m up to @170 hours now and I do want to get that out of the way and get the rear blade on it and get her ready for snow duty this winter. Give it a good pressure wash first and a complete service after the re-torque’s done. And a new seat and shift boot, those two are way overdue too.

Makes you kind of wonder if it is really necessary ????   Anyone else out there who could chime in on this subject ???????

I did both of my Chinese tractors and all of the bolts were loose enough to turn some, but of course there is a torque window and a difference in wrench’s soooo. But I have heard on this forum of leaking head gaskets and thus a head removal and new gasket being then needed.  and then a oil change and coolant change. Soooo torqueing  again is easier and cheaper or roll the dice. have a nice day

You are correct Dave, I’ve been rolling the dice, so to speak. These tractors are copies of early tractors, with 1940’s technologies at that.  I look at my Jinma as a Ford 8N  if some newer technology like power steering, a diesel engine  and 4 WD were added, but not much else.

I think the only thing that’s saved me so far was buying it in a crate and having a really good mechanic friend help put it together.  He checked the bolt torque as well as the valve lash before we ever finished assembling the tractor and 2 out of 3 cylinders were out of spec. I wouldn’t have thought of checking that, that’s the difference between a mechanic and a bodyman I guess :unsure:

Will wait for you Tinbender to walk me through it ( after you do yours ).   As I know you will do an excellent job.

if you do not have a compression release it is not a big time consuming task. if you do it take some finagling with the extra parts, I read I think on the old forum that the gasket material used is hard and retorquing is highly suggested and a good time to set the lifters too.

Yes, what David said.

Always check/set valve clearances AFTER you have re-torqued the head because re-torqueing can change the dimension.