Forum › Forums › Tractor Operation And Maintenance › Pin Hole in Hydraulic Cylinder
- This topic has 16 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 7 years, 7 months ago by jmayo.
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April 16, 2017 at 9:11 pm #46872
Question for those who know about hydraulic cylinders.
I have a Nortrac NT254 with an Ameriquip 1836 NT700 front end loader. While pulling posts the other day, the wife is pointing at the lifting cylinder on the left side. There was a “Hair fine” stream of hydraulic fluid squirting out the cylinder casing. There evidently, a pin hole in the casing on the end opposite the cylinder rod. I couldn’t see it very well, but in or close to the end of the cylinder case itself where the “TEE” is attached to the case. I suppose that cylinder case has the end welded onto the tube, and perhaps this weld has a small pin hole.
How does one fix this? Can it be welded, and if so does it have to be taken off and drained, or can it be epoxyed? (I am stupid about this and just trying to get educated.) Would it be simpler to just replace the cylinder, and if so does it have to be done in pairs?
Your thoughts and experience would be welcome.Thanks all.
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April 17, 2017 at 6:59 am #46873
take it off and take it to a hydro. repair shop , it could go either way. remember to seal off or rise level the hose ends to minimize fluid loss .
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April 17, 2017 at 8:26 am #46874
Yes, what David said. And no, the cylinders don’t have to be replaced in pairs. A hydraulic repair shop can re-weld the cylinder end. This cannot be done while there is oil in the cylinder.
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April 17, 2017 at 9:15 pm #46880
OK, Maybe I am making this difficult. Checking to see what a new cylinder would cost. Called Nortrac, said it was a 2 inch bore. (Measures about 2.5 inches outside diameter of the casing) Didn’t know the stroke. So I lowered the bucket loader, as far as it would go (lifted the front end off the ground). From pin center to pin center measured 30.5 inches. Elevated bucket to as high as it would go, pin to pin measured 52.5 inches. So is the stroke 22 inches? If so, I can’t find a cylinder exactly like that. I see retracted lengths of 28″ and 32″ with strokes of 20″and 24″ respectively. Does it have to be more exact than that?
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April 17, 2017 at 9:27 pm #46881
Does it have to be more exact than that?
Absolutely. The cylinders must have the same bore, stroke, and displacement (rod size). Otherwise there will be a whole lot of twistin’ goin’ on.
If Northern can’t supply the correct cylinder, then you may have to purchase two new ones to match.
Did you check here? http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Cylinders/Double-Acting-Hydraulic-Cylinders/
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April 17, 2017 at 10:59 pm #46882
Okay, so I think I found one that matches, pretty closely.
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April 18, 2017 at 8:43 am #46883
Yeah I had checked the surplus center. I did find Some made by Magistar Hydraulics that is pretty close. The tube ends widths I would have to measure. Maybe they could be ground narrower if they won’t fit. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hydraulic-Cylinder-Welded-Double-Acting-2-Bore-22-Stroke-Cross-Tube-2×22-NEW-/331906968612
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April 18, 2017 at 12:59 pm #46884
Sure. Why not?
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April 18, 2017 at 9:45 pm #46885
I recieved a parts manual from Ameriquip and thought I would post it here for posterity. Kind of neat in that it lists the specs for the cylinders. Called a place referred to by Ameriquip, and the cylinder with the part number that I need was quoted at $463. OOOOOUUUUCCCCHHHH!!!!!!!!
I said I’ll look for alternatives.It is a “tang: fitment on the base end. I suppose that is a stronger end.
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April 19, 2017 at 4:38 am #46887
Have you looked into getting yours repaired?
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April 19, 2017 at 8:13 am #46888
Actually I have not. I suspect I would have to take it some distance to a shop, leave it then go back for it. I wouldn’t be able to use it while it was down. I will have to see about a place that might be closer.
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April 19, 2017 at 8:43 am #46889
Bummer. I have an implement manufacturer on my way to work that I could drop something like that off to this morning and most likely pick up on my way home.
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April 19, 2017 at 1:29 pm #46890
Have you looked into getting yours repaired?
Yes, exactly. Any welding shop could do it. Probably would take all of fifteen minutes. Although you should disassemble it first.
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April 19, 2017 at 2:36 pm #46891
“Yes, exactly. Any welding shop could do it. Probably would take all of fifteen minutes. Although you should disassemble it first.”
I’ve never had one apart, although I do have a 4 ton Porto-Power ram that needs rebuilding and those come apart pretty easy. :scratch:
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April 20, 2017 at 2:45 pm #46898
OK probably get blasted for this but…
You guys got my courage up about how easy it was to take these apart. Did some reading and this was actually a pretty easy fix. I think I got it as I don’t see any oozing, runs, or oil residue when I have the loader raised.What I did, was disconnect the hose closest to the base. Unpinned the base end from its mount. Extended the cylinder piston, (to pull the workings away from the base end). Sanded the area, cleaned with brake fluid many times. Then welded the spot. Had to do it twice because I must have missed the spot the first time. I filed the weld down. I haven’t been able to knock the weld spot off. I guess I will see if she holds. Not out anything except a little labor.
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April 20, 2017 at 3:57 pm #46899
Blasted? Congratulations! Sounds like you just saved yourself time and money, that’s why most of us buy these off brand tractors in the first place. :yahoo:
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April 20, 2017 at 7:37 pm #46900
Thanks for your all responses. Since it was in the end weld, there didn’t seem to be much issue. If it were in the middle of the case, I would have had second thoughts due to being weaker and thinner, and maybe the heat deforming the cylinder somewhat.
Thanks for the encouragement.
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