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My 204 Jinma operates fine in loader and general utility mode, but quickly loses power and rpms become unstable when mowing. I have a 5' Woods rotary mower. The tractor, when cold will mow like gangbusters for 15 minutes, when it begins to lose power (rpm). Removal on load, that is, stopping tractor and even the implement, does not cure the problem. The rpms will drop to 500 or so, hunt around a while, begin to rise to, maybe 800-1000, hunt around, drop again, surge to 1600, drop to 1200, then to 500, then to 2400. Get the picture?! When I add load at 2400, it sometimes will maintain for 15 seconds or so, and then resume the provious behavior. Needless to say, I'm not getting the fields mowed.
What I have done:
- Checked the flow from the tank with the sediment bowl off. I get a steady straem about twice the size of a pencil lead. Seems like enough to me, and I know it is enough for 15 minutes.
- Cleaned sediment bowl and replaced.
- Changed spin-on fuel filter. It was dirty, and I thought this would fix it. No.
- Checked and cleaned the air intake system, no obstructions found, filter elements clean.
- Checked the oil in the injector reservoir. When I pulled the small dipstick, diesel fuel spewed out. Not right.
Would this fuel in the reservoir cause the governer to act irradically? Does this mean a new pump ($445, ugh)? Am I barking up the wrong tree?
Help, I've been out of work for 9 months and can't afford a new pump.
Thanks, guys,
Andy
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You are starving for fuel is what it sounds like, Take your fuel sediement bowl off the tractor, unscrew it from the fuel tank when you do there is a screen on top of it.Make sure it's clean. The bolt that holds the fuel line onto the bottom of the injector pump, remove that bolt inside of it is a screen clean it
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
“Your Jinma Parts Superstore”
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I had symptoms just as you decribed with my JM304/Farmpro 2430, I could make the symptoms go away by pumping up the manual primer on the side of the injector pump so I figured the manual primer pump must be bad. Hoewever, I also noticed the plastic sediment bowl was sucked-in, might be hard to picture but it was like the sediment bowl was colapsing. I decided to just replace the sediment bowl assembly and lines with the kit from Ranch Hand Supply since that was much cheaper than the entire injector pump. All I can say is that it solved the rough running and power drop for me. Good Luck.
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I agree with the things Tommy suggested but it sounds like it may be your pump, you know a seal is leaking dumping that fuel into the governor. Let us know if you need anything.
Phillip
Circle G Tractor Sales, Inc.
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The only seal is located on the lift pump push rod and that is merely an O-ring. The individual injector pumps (barrels & plungers) have no seals, they are lapped to a very close tolerance and are not sold individually for these engines, and it doesn't take an awful lot of contaminated fuel to destroy them. Diesel bugs are very corrosive and can bring an engine to it's knees in very short order. Hope that's not your problem.
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I also recently noticed the 284 that my fuel pump lubricant seems to be 90% fuel and full to the top of the dip stick.
The performance of the tractor has not changed.
Based on your comments Bob;
1) Is there a simple O-ring I should be changing to fix this.
2) Buy a new pump now for the day when I do start to have symptoms.
Or do I need to supply more data to make a determiniation?
G'Day
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TreeEng wrote:
Based on your comments Bob;
1) Is there a simple O-ring I should be changing to fix this.
2) Buy a new pump now for the day when I do start to have symptoms.
Or do I need to supply more data to make a determiniation?
It's pretty unlikely that O-ring is bad because it's lubed from the injection pump sump, easy to change but requires dismantling the lift pump, which should be removed from the injection pump assembly to make life easier.
I would change the oil in the injection pump and monitor it closely to see how rapidly it becomes diluted again. As I stated before, the individual barrels and plungers have no seals, they are lap-fitted and lubricated by the fuel, so any kind of dirt or contamination in the fuel will damage them. It's a good idea to use a diesel fuel additive as a sulfur substitute.
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I changed the in-tank filter (it was completely rotted away anyway) and the scren at the bottom of the injection pump (it was clean, anyway). I also replaced the fuel line from the pump to the spin-on filter, which I had patched several years ago. I mowed for over an hour with no problems, so I guess there was more going in that old hose than the pin hole I patched.
I have scoured my injection pump, and find no oil drain on the bottom, or oil level plug forward of the hand pump, as some diagrams show. I have only the dipstick, and it is still showing diesel fuel. Whatever, it works, and most pumps use the fuel for lubrication anyway, I am told.
Thanks for your help, and thanks to Jerry at Affordable Tractor!
Andy
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Glad we could help you Andy !!!!
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales Co.
“Your Jinma Parts Superstore”
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roadster wrote:
I have scoured my injection pump, and find no oil drain on the bottom, or oil level plug forward of the hand pump, as some diagrams show. I have only the dipstick, and it is still showing diesel fuel. Whatever, it works, and most pumps use the fuel for lubrication anyway, I am told.
The fuel only lubricates the barrels and plungers, not the camshaft and governor. One or more of your barrel and plunger assemblies has failed.
You will be replacing the injection pump assembly soon anyway, so you might as well just keep going until it fails.
My fuel injection pump is the same as yours – no tattletale hole or drain. I use a Mighty-Vac. No big deal.
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