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Easy.
Measure the overall height, width, and depth, then measure the height and width of the core. Then calculate the total volume (in quarts or liters) of the top and bottom tanks. Next count the number of rows of tubes in the core (seriously). The radiator with the highest values is the one that will be interchangeable heat transfer wise, assuming the mounts are compatible and everything else fits.
If everything is the same between the two radiators then you have your answer.
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The radiators are different in size ( TY290 vs Y380 ) as well as the inlet and outlet hoses.The Radiator for the Y380 and Y385 are already min. size, you will read several topics of overheating.With the smaller TY290 rad, if you get it in would not cool the engine and you are going to have more problems.Which 200 series radiator do you have ?
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
” Your Jinma Parts Superstore”
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Some years back I bew the radiator on atruck I owned. When I checked on replacements the price scared me so I went to a radiator repair shop. For less than the cost of a new one, they pulled my old one apart and put in a new core with four rows instead of the original three. It worked much better and saved me money. I wonder if you could do the same with the radiator from the Jinma? I wonder if radiator repair shops still exist, as a matter of fact?
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Radiator repair shops as we know them are a dying breed, mostly due to the EPA lead regulations and manufacturers going throw-away thermoplastic.
I found one shop in the Greater Seattle area that still does it, and they even repair plastic and aluminum radiators and heater cores, but as I found out, they can't perform miracles. Had to buy a whole new heater for the mini-ex.
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well off I go to the radiator shop. looks like one of the core pipes blew out as the spray staining pattern starts about 3/4ths of the way up from the bottom tank and to the left of center and V's downward . Even if a tank blew I think they are brass and it can be repaired. Its 10 yrs old with over 1,000 hrs on it so I'm hoping I'm not throwing away good money fixing it as the repair shop is 45 mins away and two trips- 180 miles. The good news is that if it is fixable, the shop told me they can fix it in just a day. Down time is a concern but if I get it back on Tue, awesome. I do agree it is Min on cooling ability. Whenever the air temp is over 60, the gauge runs at redline but the engine does not overheat. Maybe it doesn't get hot outside in china – Lol.. By the way, this 204 has been an awesome tractor- Its an '03. Only things ever replaced have been the 4X4 driveline, 3 point arms (installed 254 longer arms), and the original China hydraulic quick connects. The original owner dug two house footings with a Koyker 160 and wore out a 5ft brush hog in 700 hrs!. He then traded it in and I sold him a new 354 4cyl. He thought he blew the clutch. But, it was just a sheared roll pin in the pedal lever. Good for me as I didn't have to split the tractor and decided to keep this little gem for myself. Also, he never serviced the transmission or the front end. After draining the trans, I filled it with diesel and ran thru the gears for a few min's. You would not believe what came out with that flush. I will post on the radiator repair results. Thanks much for the input/advice.
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If all else fails, we have plenty of new ones in stock
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
“Your Jinma Parts Superstore”
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To add, I have not had the cross reference list work for me yet. Napa 2276 air filter has plastic fins around one end, I guess they could be removed. The lower rad hose number could not be found by my local NAPA and the GATES # is just a flex hose, no good when you want to splice in a hose heater. Half the fun is making something work I guess.
Paul
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I'll give the fin removal a go, thanks. I went with a DAYCO 17400 (40 inches) top cog belt. The belt was difficult to get on but it is -25 degrees C and working without gloves was painful. I took the adjusting bolt completely out to give me extra room to get the belt on, I wanted to get the belt cover off anyways as the top attachment on it was broken. Once tightened up it sits around the middle of the adjuster so glad I went with that length. Hopefully thats it for a while.
Paul
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But, as always thanks BOB for posting good and helpful information on the site.
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