refueled after running out, now will not start nortrac 20hp

If indeed it ran out of fuel you most assuredly have air in the lines.

Start by checking to see that fuel is flowing through the sediment bowl.

Then open the bleeder screw on the side of the injection pump. Mine has a ring attached to it to make it easier. If fuel does not flow out on its own, turn the engine over a few seconds with the starter, that should get fuel flowing. Once you have good bubble free flow there close the screw.

You can try starting the engine at this point but it probably won’t start.

If not, you need to crack open the fittings between the hard lines and the injectors. Be very careful not to do any damage to the lines or injectors. I would do one at a time, crack open, turn engine with starter until fuel runs out. Re-tighten, CAREFULLY.

After you get fuel coming out of the injector fittings you should be able to hit the glow plugs for the appropriate time and then start up.

One trick I do is heat the glow plugs then pull the decompression lever and hit the starter. Once the engine is spinning up to speed (usually in 1 or 2 seconds), release the decompression lever. This allows the full momentum of the engine to hit that first firing piston at full speed. Makes it fire off easier. I always start with the hand throttle pushed forward just enough to move the foot pedal about 1/2″.

Let us know if you get it running or if you have any more questions.

better check your filters , screens or any where else you can think of unless you know the fuel tank was very clean.

I will add about pushing the air out there should be a manual pump to get fuel to the injector pump on the injector pump some use a lever , some have a knob that screws down to seal, backed out to push and prime.

Like David said,  I would use the hand primer.   Give that pump about 30+ pumps and crank the tractor over.  Usually these tractors will bleed themselves just using that pump and cranking it.  I have never personally used the bleeder screw on the pump itself.

Any diesel is no fun to start once it has run out of fuel.

Oh yeah, I totally forgot about the hand primer pump! It has been so long since I have had to use it. If you have one, there is no need to spin the engine to get air out of the system at least as far as the bleeder screw.

On my Jinma 284 the hand pump is mounted vertically. It has a round knob that is knurled around the edge and has a spring underneath. You “unscrew” the knob and when it is free the spring will push the plunger up.

The bleeder screw with the ring on it is to the left and slightly above the hand pump.

Loosen the bleeder and pump the plunger until you get a steady stream of fuel from the bleeder screw.

On the last pump down, hold the plunger down and screw it in until tight then tighten the bleeder screw.

I don’t know if the hand primer is capable of pushing fuel through the injection pump and all the way up to the injector fittings. I doubt it, but would definitely give it a try.

Also a thumbs up  to checking the sediment bowl, the screen in the sediment bowl and this also might be a good time to go ahead and replace the spin on fuel filter.

This also brings up some advice about fuel filters that I will pass on. I used to work for a Caterpillar dealer and this comes from Caterpillar. (this is in my own words as I don’t have access to the actual policy)

There is an “old time” practice of filling a new fuel filter with fuel before spinning it on. The idea is so that you don’t get any more air in the system than necessary. However CAT says DO NOT DO THIS! The reason is that you are introducing unfiltered fuel into the filter where it can get directly into the injection pump. CATs recommendation is to  carefully clean the filter base before removing the old filter. Remove and discard the old filter and any fuel it contains. Carefully check for any contamination on the filter base and screw on a new clean empty filter. Then use the hand pump to draw fuel through the filter and purge any air out of the system at the bleeder.

The tolerances for clearance between the internal parts of modern injector pumps and injectors is incredibly small and any dirt can block passages or cause premature wear of the parts. Parts are expensive, fuel and filters are cheap.

There is a chance that once air got to the injector pump it did not push any into the lines that go to the injectors. I would definitely attempt to start the engine once you are sure all the air has been purged as far as the bleeder screw. I wouldn’t mess with the injector fittings unless I had to.

What procedure should one follow when changing the fuel filter to avoid the same issue / problem ????

well if you want to use the above method, replace fuel filter , open the bleeder screw on top of the fuel filter housing and start pumping till fuel comes out then close screw, open fuel line at injector pump , pump till fuel comes out there . then try to start. In this type of weather I would do this on a warm engine that should make it all go easier. Now what I do is remove old filter, fill new filter with good CLEAN fuel place new filter in housing and start, there again a warm engine will help the restart. If your tractor has a self contained oil sump in the injector pump it would be a good time to look  and smell the oil and replace.

Thanks David for your reply.  That was going to be my plan of attack.  I always do that with oil filters ( per fill with new motor oil ) when ever possible.