Replacement blade control valves

Yep. I upgraded to this valve and I love it. http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Valves/Directional-Control-Valves/2-SPOOL-COMPACT-10-GPM-JOYSTICK-CONTROL-VALVE-9-7401.axd

However, I had to add the power beyond port in order to install this valve for the blade tilt. http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Valves/Directional-Control-Valves/1-SPOOL-8-GPM-PRINCE-MB11B5C1-DA-VALVE-9-7861.axd

Some modification of the saddlebag is necessary, and you will have to get a bunch of hose adapters from Tommy. I have pics of my mods, just have to find them

Griz

See hydraulic system mods in https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Chinese_Tractor_Maintenance/Dozer#Modifications

Think two copper penny like flat disks with 1/16″ holes. (Assume you are concerned about blade tilt.)

Phil

Little_Grizzly wrote:

Thanks Bob and Phil. Yeah blade tilt is pretty harsh. The raise/lower is aggressive as well. Now my angle adjustment is sticking. I just figured replacing the whole stack with a quality set would be the long-term solution. Bob, did you have to modify the mechanism that operates the three valves? It looks like your solution for the tilt valve might require a mod to fit right. Or do you have two separate levers to operate the blade now? Griz

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Yes, the copper washers corrects the aggressiveness of the valve actions. I’m going to take some pics of my mod and post later today which includes replacing the Chinese valves altogether. I mainly did my mod because I also have a loader and wanted the regen feature, and also because I needed the power beyond for the two three-point hitch valves. I have a tilt cylinder on the hitch. It may be more than you want to take on since you only have aggressive movement issues. The copper washers work very well.

pepage wrote:

Griz See hydraulic system mods in https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Chinese_Tractor_Maintenance/Dozer#Modifications Think two copper penny like flat disks with 1/16″ holes. (Assume you are concerned about blade tilt.) Phil

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Very nicely done Phil, like it very much. :good: :good: :good:

Little_Grizzly wrote:

Phil: Any specific reason for copper over steel?

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Yes. The copper serves as a crush seal.

These are them.

Ok, phone pics are too big, will have to wait ’til I get home.

!) Twin synchronized dual acting cylinders operate the three-point lift arms.

2, 3) Controls for three-point hitch: up-down-float, hydraulic top link: in-out.

4) Left lever – blade tilt. Right joystick – dozer/loader functions.

Now for the insides.

Bear in mind that there are four extra hoses in there for the loader that you won’t have.

You will need a handful of metric ORFS/JIC adapters from Tommy.

I hand made all of the hydraulic hoses using reusable fittings. All of the hydraulic fittings are off-the-shelf stuff from your local hydraulic parts distributor.

Also shown on the top rear of the first pic in the first set are two diverter valves on each side for future add-on equipment.

I couldn’t find a six way joystick valve with float and regen features, so the tilt valve was the odd man out. My only other option was a four lever valve stack, and I thought that would be too retro because that was what Guilin used before they introduced their joystick. Also, I could not find a power beyond cartridge for the Chinese valve to operate the three point hitch. I could have used a small pushbutton solenoid valve for the blade tilt function but there were some cost constraints. I also had to make a couple of custom tubing wrenches. B-)

I replaced the joystick controls on my NT35XTD three times. They kept wearing out. The valves are fine. It’s the controls that suck. Finally I just got rid of the joystick assembly altogether and replaced it with three Cross 1V1703 valve handles. Works fine. Easy mod.