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I know this is not Chinese but I was given a bobcat skid steer I think made in the early to mid 80 ‘s It has a 18 hp Wisconsin engine , it uses the old style tractor spark plug champion rd-16 or autolite 386. The porcelain is a half again bigger than the standard spark plug making it want to work off the electrode with the new style smaller spark plug boot. Has anyone seen or have a idea where these can be found ,all I need are two . nothing with a internet search. Thanks Dave
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Ok, didn’t know you had/wanted phenolic spark plug covers. Could have saved some fuss. Anyway, just so you know they are widely available so you don’t have to jury rig. I didn’t dig further to find any non-resistor covers, because these just popped up first, and because the point is moot now.
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well got the engine back in . does anyone know about what types of oil go the two side gear, chain drives and what would be ok in the hydros? I think I am going to have to take it to bobcat to figure out what model it is. But on a chance anyone might have dealt with and has knowledge of around 1984 gas model I thought I would ask around.
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It’s odd that the different skid steer manufacturers use different types of oil for their chain cases, which are all basically the same. The majority specify ISO AW 46 hydraulic oil for their chain cases. I run ISO AW 32/46/68 multi grade hydraulic oil in my chain cases because that’s what I use in the hydraulic system. I don’t have to worry about cross contamination if my motor seals or parking brake cylinders fail.
I am a member of this site also, so you might check it out. It has a wealth of knowledge for you.
http://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx
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parking brake? that is not just putting the bucket on the ground your so hi tech. hahahaha.. about the oil I saw some references to using 10w30 in the chain drives . But I am getting it back together and taking it to the dealer so maybe we can figure out what model it is, so then I will have something more to go by than just a guess. but thanks for your info. I like good knowledge to fall back on. I would like it to use aw46 that is what I use in the jcb backhoe.
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After spending considerable time studying lubricating and hydraulic oils, and all lubricants in general, I would be hesitant to use motor oil in chaincases primarily due to it’s poor ability to release aeration, but there are others as well. Some manufacturers will even contradict themselves on chaincase lubrication within the same manual. And I would definitely stay away from any proprietary lubricants for that purpose, unless you have money to burn.
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parking brake? that is not just putting the bucket on the ground your so hi tech. hahahaha.
Yeah, there are mini spring loaded hydraulic cylinders that drop a dog into a notch when there is no pressure.
Most likely yours is a 600 series, those came with the Wisconsin engine. There are many threads and even a couple of You Tube videos about repowering them.Good luck.
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Bob, Let me get into your brain power on another issue . I took my 1996 12 valve cummins dodge to the local diesel mech. I had changed out all the air and fuel filters but the truck had a problem with a loss of power , the truck would start very easy and would run very smooth at all rpms. But with a load lets say 4 ton rolling weight it was sluggish . To go up a 7% grade I had to keep it in third gear running a 2700 rpm if I took fourth gear it would just fall on it’s ass. So the mech. I guess could not find anything so he put a variable fuel rail two setting I believe a 30 hp and a 70 hp setting . It seems to pull much better now. Since we are now putting in more fuel do I need to look at the turbo for more air. I have no boost gauge now. I guess it is low mileage for the age with 235,000.
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That’s right, forgot. I’m not that familiar with the small Cummins engines. A boost gauge would be nice, my truck came stock with one. A pyrometer would be a great addition too especially if you do a lot of towing. The main thing to be concerned about is the exhaust gas temps. (EGT’s). They are a product of boost pressure and fuel rate. I don’t exceed 1,100 degrees F for only brief periods when towing, I don’t need warped valves, coked oil, or blown pistons. I have two turbos capable of about 35 psig boost, so I take it pretty easy.
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they could not tell me exactly but they did give me the info as to where then locations of the serial # are stamped on the frame. So when it becomes good enough weather I will pressure wash it and take a look. When I took it down there the parts guy said he wasn’t born when it was made. I said he did not look 60, that got a good laugh and well I do not think it is that old.
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I found this:
https://blog.bobcat.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/600-Series-Literature-1980.pdf
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Yes. As far as seat back height and angle, they are the same. But be sure to check the mounting bolt pattern and dimensions because that part varies a lot. They will come with or without the sliding adjustment. I got one for my Mustang from Surplus Center. very nice comfy seat.
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25 large? That’s insane. Well, to me anyway. I was thinking about why trucks are so expensive nowadays, I picked up a 3″x 8″ “4×4” sticker for a customer the other day at the Chevy dealership. His cost? $59.00 for something 1/2 the size of a bumper sticker. That’s more than 1/6th what I paid for my 71 Chevy 3/4 ton Pickup! :wacko:
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ouch do you have a reason why it turned loose
Jury is still out, will know more nest week. Right now it’s a 8,000 lb paperweight. Looking for another truck.
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