Forum › Forums › Tractor Troubleshooting › Starter/Electrical Problems
- This topic has 24 replies, 9 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 11 months ago by RichWaugh.
-
AuthorPosts
-
-
December 15, 2013 at 8:03 am #30844
I have a 2008 Argacat 2920 which is identical to a Jinma 254 tractor. The tractor was running great when I parked it in the shed. I live in Minnesota and after a very cold/snowy week I was going to plow the driveway. When I went to start the tractor there was nothing, not even a click. I could start the tractor by jumping the starter. I replaced the ignition switch, clutch safety switch and battery. The old battery was weak when tested. The starter was replaced about one year ago. The tractor now turns over very slowly and sometimes when I turn the key again the tractor turns over normally. Again, if I jump the starter, the tractor turns over normally and starts. I also keep the battery connected to a 1 amp trickle charger when in the shed. What am I missing to fix this issue?
-
December 15, 2013 at 8:48 am #36593
Did you clean and re-set the battery ground cable connection to the frame?
-
December 15, 2013 at 8:58 am #36594
No, but I will do that this morning. Thanks
-
December 15, 2013 at 11:42 am #36595
When you clean your cables coat the cables and posts with transmission fluid and you'll never have a corrosion problem again. A guy told me this and it works!! I coat all my batteries this way. Larry.
-
December 15, 2013 at 11:54 am #36596
I relocated the connection on the frame, wire brush the location removing the paint, cleaned both ends and still have the issue. Thank you for the tip of using transmission fluid. Tom
-
December 15, 2013 at 5:02 pm #36597
fyi if you know a electrician ask them for the no oxide conductive grease they use on alum. wire in large connections like meter bases, panels or transformers.works great and gives you a never sieze properties also.
-
December 16, 2013 at 4:06 am #36598
I would hook up a voltmeter between the solenoid terminal that contains the wire from the ignition and a good ground. See what voltage you are actually getting to the solenoid when the switch is in the Start position.
RonJ
ronjin
-
December 16, 2013 at 10:26 pm #36601
Larry wrote:
“When you clean your cables coat the cables and posts with transmission fluid and you'll never have a corrosion problem again. A guy told me this and it works!! I coat all my batteries this way.”
Ok, this is how wives tales get started and propagate.
It is NOT the transmission oil that stops corrosion. It is the ability of ANY dielectric substance to coat or otherwise seal a terminal from the atmosphere. Plain old chassis grease works well too, as well as gasket sealer, RTV, etc.
Whatever works, the cheaper the better.
What does “dielectric” mean? A nonconductor of electricity with electrical conductivity of less than ten-to-the-sixth-power of a siemens.
The “grease” that David is referring to is intended to prevent the galvanic action created by dissimilar metals, namely copper and aluminum in close contact.
Account deleted.
-
December 17, 2013 at 5:31 pm #36603
I have to admit I got a chuckle out of this. Over the years I have heard many.. many cures for bat terminal corrosion. Years ago a guy told me that he had the secret to preventing terminal corrosion. It was pancake syrup! Still another said it was finger nail polish. Bob hit the nail on the head. In plain English anything that will prevent air from getting to the terminal will work. Have a good day guys
-
December 17, 2013 at 11:17 pm #36604
You mean I've been putting egg salad on terminals for years for nothing?
Seriously I just use grease.
-
December 24, 2013 at 11:03 am #36614
make sure the starter is tight to the block
good luck
-
December 26, 2013 at 2:15 pm #36621
back to the electrical grease I like it because you can coat the post and terminal before you place on the terminal on the post since it is conductive you will not add non conductive stuff into the sqeeze type battery terminal ,but that is just me fillin in the voids
-
December 26, 2013 at 2:58 pm #36622
Actually, electrical grease, better known as dielectric connection grease, is not conductive. It's purpose is to prevent dissimilar metals in close proximity from setting up galvanic corrosion through tramp currents carried by moist air, water and/or dirt. By coating the exposed parts, it also excludes air and moisture so that corrosion is retarded or eliminated. Corrosion can ultimately bridge gaps and set up galvanic corrosion. At the point of intended contact, it is squeezed out sufficiently that it presents no obstruction to the free flow of electricity.
Fundamentally, it is pretty much just expensive Vaseline. Which, by the way, works extremely well in the same use. Most of us remember Cosmoline, that wonderful crud that the military coats weapons with so that recruits have something to clean off. Cosmoline is just a low grade of Vaseline that to some degree hardens with age. Vaseline is an excellent material to coat steel surfaces to prevent rust, and is considered food safe by the NSF.
-
December 27, 2013 at 3:28 pm #36623
Cosmoline with carbon is that wonderful stuff GM likes to coat frames and subframes with that needs to be washed off to weld or heat, messy stuff. Vaseline rubbed into your face before spray painting makes cleaning up a breeze, and keeps chemicals from soaking into your pores.
-
December 27, 2013 at 9:03 pm #36625
not to beat this dying horse but I looked at the bottle I have and it says it is conductive it is even copper colored not that it means anything. it is what I have always used on electrical joints with dissimilar metals
-
December 27, 2013 at 10:37 pm #36626
That's interesting, David. I've never seen that stuff. Somehow, I'd think its being conductive would kind of defeat the purpose when it comes to preventing dielectric galvanic corrosion, but I guess it doesn't or it wouldn't sell. Learn something new every day, thanks!
-
December 27, 2013 at 11:40 pm #36628
Picture please David.
Are you sure it isn't anti-seize?
The mere fact that it states it is conductive means it's not dielectric.
I have never seen a copper colored dielectric barrier grease.
Account deleted.
-
January 12, 2014 at 9:02 pm #36656
sorry it took a while but here is the info it is called kopr-shield conductive anti corrosion surface compound type cp8-tb manf.by thomas&betts memphis,tn.
I will use this stuff on any mixed metal regardless if it has power running thru it or not with no bad results ever.
-
January 13, 2014 at 9:23 am #36658
Thomas & Betts calls it anti-seize/cable dressing with colloidal compounds.
Personally, I can't afford $52 for 8 oz. of anything.
http://www.drillspot.com/produ…..e_dressing
Account deleted.
-
January 16, 2014 at 9:23 am #36660
I'd like to appologize to you for idiots that think it's more important to try and poke fun than to help with your problem!!
-
January 16, 2014 at 1:58 pm #36661
Not sure where you're coming from with that post, yocsr. I don't see where anyone here has tried to poke fun at anyone. All I see is an exchange of ideas and information, certainly nothing that requires any apologies. Now, using pejorative terms like “idiots” might be getting into a place where apologies are called for, though most of the regulars here are both very intelligent and easy-going enough not to get twisted out of shape over small stuff.
-
January 16, 2014 at 3:24 pm #36662
Yocsr wrote:
“I’d like to appologize to you for idiots that think it’s more important to try and poke fun than to help with your problem!!”Apology accepted. And I agree with Rich. Who got poked fun at?
One must remember that when they stand superior enough to pass judgement, they too are being judged. Nobody here is an “idiot”. Ignorant of certain things, probably, but not an idiot.
Account deleted.
-
January 17, 2014 at 7:00 pm #36666“You mean I've been putting egg salad on terminals for years for nothing?
Seriously I just use grease.”
Maybe that was taken the wrong way. I was making fun of all the homemade tricks being posted for preventing battery terminal corrosion, certainly not trying to poke fun at someones problem. So what was the final outcome, a loose terminal on a cable or bad connection on the ground cable?
-
January 19, 2014 at 11:21 am #36669
I certainly hope unreasonable pc has not come to this site,cause I have no idea what brought that on with the postings,just sayin
-
January 19, 2014 at 10:23 pm #36673
Oh, I wouldn't be concerned about us getting all PC here, David. Most of us have enough trouble just being normal.
-
-
AuthorPosts
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.