steering brake replacement

Hi hilltrac, welcome.

Because of it's age I believe you have a Guilin dozer. Before digging into this project I have to ask; what are your abilities, and what are the facilities you will be using. I have a series of pics to use as a guide. More than likely the lining has become saturated with oil from a bad seal in the differential which will have to be replaced as well. There are drain plugs for the steering compartments that must be checked regularly for this.

Parts are available at Circle G Tractors and probably some other dealers that sell the dozers. You will have to check with the dealers for parts compatability.

Ok, first you'll have to safely block it up and then remove the tension from the tracks by backing off the idler. Then drop the tracks and remove the sprockets. Next you will have to remove the seat for better access to the top of the steering compartments.

Do you have the ROPS?

Doubt you will need the 3/4 drive for this, you might twist off a fastener.

Reading intently… 

Hi Grizz, come along for the ride.

I forgot to ask. Hilltrac, have you adjusted the brake bands before?

Used to use your method to get Cats out of the woods to where we could work on them.

(Ok, we'll try it your way first since this will have to be done anyway.)

First remove the seat, linkage, and cover plates from the steering compartments. Let me know what you find.

I asked if you had a ROPS, do you? This can be used to lift the saddlebags away from the frame. An overhead gantry crane can be very helpful here, otherwise you'll be doing it the hard way.

Approximately how many hours on the machine?

(Using this as an example – FYI everyone: This is a great reason to keep your feet off the pedals unless you're using them, and this is true of ANY machine. Riding the pedals equates to premature failures, machine down time and a lot of extra unnecessary work.)

That's great to know, lots of maneuvering.

Unpin the top of the sweeps and pull the ROPS. If you had a gantry inside you could use it to lift the saddlebag frame assembly saving a whole lot of hassle. Unbolt all of the remaining bolts holding the saddlebag frame to the differential, transmission, and front ROPS mounts and lift the whole assembly up about 8″ to 10″ (tilt up from rear), that's all you'll need to clear the final drives and have good access. I'll post a pic when I get home.

You won't have to take it down quite this far, but it gives you a general idea of where you're headed. I would also dissasmble and qualify the steering clutches while I'm in that deep.

Btw, this isn't my pic. I gleaned it from somewhere in the old forums, when they weren't old.

Well this doesn't seem to be progressing as quickly as I had anticipated.

I don't know about the OP but for me, if I was doing such a repair, there would be long gaps between steps.  The location for the tractor is far far from internet access.  I believe many on here have the same condition.

Personally I'm still on the edge of my seat for that other thread about tearing down the Guilin dozer that other guy has.

Personally I'm still on the edge of my seat for that other thread about tearing down the Guilin dozer that other guy has.

Me too!

Grizz wrote:

Grizz wrote:

“The location for the tractor is far far from internet access.  “

I should qualify that statement.  My dozer is currently in Keno, OR since it hasn't been delivered yet.   But AFTER it gets delivered (hopefully this week) THEN it will still be a rough 9 miles away from internet access.

If you have G3/4 on your cell phone then no problem. You can go to pda.net and download the free app to use to tether your phone to a laptop (or even a desktop). Works great. I'm using it right now. Works anywhere the phone does.

Congrats on the new dozer, Tom will treat you right!

Unfortunately even beyond cell phone reach.  Amazing such a place still exists no?

Ha ha, Satellite phone. You can run, but you can't hide.

You'd have to be pretty hardcore important to have one tho… (imho)

I believe Hilltrac lost his “inclination”

when he found out you can't replace the brake bands through the top cover plate. Must be his first dozer… I said they were higher maintenance than a wheelie, but it's justified.

No disrespect meant…

Unfortunately, I believe he's gone. Sorry to say.

1) Remove the ROPS. My guess this weighs approx.500 lbs. My plan would to use a gantry crane to lift the ROPS off the dozer, backup the dozer, and place it on three wheel dolly movers like Harbor's 97672 or 67208. That way I can move the ROPS around the shop out of my way. I have a four wheel cart/trailer that I'll set it on and park it outside. Same principle though.

2) Block dozer

3) Split track between sprocket and roller on top. It's easier (and lighter) if you drop the tracks before you jack it up and block it, and be careful when you roll the tracks off the idler, they can pick up speed as they unroll.

4) Lift and block saddle. Make sure all of the saddlebag bolts are removed, Check where the saddlebags bolt to the “transom”. There is probably some differences between tractors. Completely drain final drives and differential.

5) Remove final drive unit with sprocket using gantry crane and car jack. Transfer to dolly to move out of work area. Might find it easier if sprocket is removed. The brake drum (hub) will come off with the final drive assembly.

6) Remove brake band, inspect brake drum and dissasemble steering clutch assembly and inspect for warped and delaminated discs. Repair Replace as necessary.

7) Install relined brake band and reassemble in reverse order. You took pics didn't you.

Or should I plan on lifting the ROPS and saddles together 8-10″ since I have to do both sides? I could use an engine hoist instead of gantry crane on the final drive unit. On mine the ROPS forward sockets are attached to the towers, so I can't do it that way. Yours may be different.

Be sure to pay close attention to, and protect, all seal surfaces. Thoroughly clean all ball and roller bearings. It is usually an accepted practice to replace all associated bearings, gaskets, and seals when going this deep into a machine. You hate to have to do it over again because of a $20.00 part that failed because it was marginal.

To my knowledge there are no dimensional wear limits on these parts, so good judgement and experience should be used when qualifying used parts for re-use.

Hi Phil

I have a 38 step practice I am going to try to copy and paste. I have not had a lot of success doing this on this site. If it does not work I can e-mail it to you in a PDF file.

Here goes…..



WOW! Thanks for the input.

I have printed out a COPY of Bob's post and SAVED images of Sam's GIF's.

The break drum is refereed to in parts catalog  as steering clutch drive drum. Could not machine. Replaced at cost of $178.00 from Nortrack.

Sam

My YCT306S-2 Track Tractor Catalog, Figure 10  (Steering clutch assembly) is the same as Figure 18 in Tytan Tractor.

http://www.tytantractor.com/40…..s.html  

#4 is the “Steering clutch driving drum” and #9 is the “Steering clutch driven hub” or as I see it, the brake drum. Correct?

Phil

Went back and looked at Sam,s picture of his brake drum. I can understand why he had to replace but it does look like a worn drum can be turned. However, I now think I have the cart before the horse. The first question to be answered is. Can the brake bands be replaced without removing the final drive i.e. from the top. Shannon, do you have the email address you used to get your manual?

Phil

I am looking at a catalog YCT306S-6. Sorry, I misspoke. It is the steering clutch driven hub part #252L.39.501B. It is #9 in my catalog also…

Sam

I just went to the Yuchai website and poked around.  I think you could use:

info@ycexcavator.com or parts@ycexcavator.com

As for replacing the bands from the top.. it looks promising but I don't think you could do it.  In my mind you would have to open the band by bending it to get it around the drum.  I think this would result in a band that wasn't round and you might get uneven wear or a spongy pedal or both.

http://www.tytantractor.com/Fig18.JPG

see if this works

Considering the cost and amount of work involved in removing the final drives, I want to make absolutely sure it cannot be done.

Phil

Email to Yuchai on its way.  Happy Thanksgiving everyone.

Phil

phil it has been a few years now since i have been into mine; but yes you should be able to remove the band and replace it from the top cover; 

there are two adjustment bolts around the final drive housing that need to be backed out; 

when removing the band i would attach a trailing wire to it;  then when you reinstal the new one all you will need to do is attach the leading end to the wire and fish the new one in place;

as to turning the steering clutch assembly can i don't feel this would be a good idea, it is thin metal,  i guessing but i think between 1/8-1/4 inch of metal;   also if my memory serves the lining on the break band is lamanted  and not rivited but i not sure on that point;

believe me unless you have to you don't want to go into the final drive ;   but if you do  understand that the weight of each final isn't all that great, but the problem is , that it is almost impossible to balance it and it will get on you in a heart beat;

as rooker stated if you go in make sure to have the two seals; on hand  the area that houses the break band and steering clutches is a dry area;  so you want to keep it that way  one seal goes on the shaft to the transmission and the other goes on the shaft to the bull gear;   the seal for the tranny was my problem and it allowed oil to get on the clutch plates which caused  that track to slip under load;

the canister which houses the clutch bands is not sealed it will just slide apart to expose the bands; they are dry metal bands with teeth on them so be sure to watch when taking them apart,  some have inside teeth and some have outside teeth; and should be one for one;  replacment should not be necessary unless some of them are cracked or broken;  if they have grease on them a good soaking is some degreaser and dry well and you are set to go;

hope this helps

leon

If the brake band linings are bonded to the brake band I wouldn't risk changing them from the top because you stand a good chance of cracking the lining and separating it from the band. However, if it was riveted and in segments, then that risk would be minimized. The band and lining is pre-formed to the diameter of the hub, and I would hate to disturb that shape by changing it and trying to get it back.

I'm thinking that the brake hub (drum) is thicker than 1/8″ – 1/4″, closer to 3/8″ – 7/16″, maybe 1/2″, and a clean-up cut of up to .010″ should be okay if needed to remove scoring. The Hub should also be inspected for heat checks in the lining contact area. Very minor checking is normal and acceptable.

In Leon's last paragraph I believe he is referring to the steering clutch DISCS which have alternating internal and external teeth, and agree that they should be replaced if cracked, warped, or otherwise broken.

I still have the break hub that I replaced. I took a measurement on it and it is 3/16..

I am having trouble posting Yuchai's reply because of embedded script so I the short answer is NO, final drives must be removed. They did say that a revision was made two years ago where the brake bands can be replaced from the top.

It is nice to know that Yuchai will respond and promptly.

I am beginning to understand why hilltrac ( original poster) went away but what choice do I have? Need to have brakes.

It may be wishful thinking, but I now want to find out if it is possible to upgrade my dozer to the new brake “system”. At least find out more about it.

Phil wrote:

“It may be wishful thinking, but I now want to find out if it is possible to upgrade my dozer to the new brake “system”. At least find out more about it.”

My guess is they used a more flexible brake band and a segmented and riveted lining. Just a guess mind you.

The major thing is that you didn't get stone-walled. I like that. And it also suggests that they are still in production.

Does Bob Rooks have a crystal ball?

No crystal ball here. Caterpillar did the same thing many years ago.

It appears that the trailing edge clips are bolted to the band so that they can be removed for snaking around the hub. This is something that will have to be checked on the old bands, and if riveted on both ends may still require final drive dismantling for removal. However, I think the old bands, properly re-lined, can be converted easily for subsequent replacement through the top.

What stuns me is how incredibly responsive Yuchai is. Did they send you that pic? When I contacted them they responded within 24 hours each time.  Hard to get that kind of response from any company these days.

Phil & Sam wrote:

“Sam reports that the brake drum is only 3/16″ thick so replacing the brake band from the top may help but how many bands before the brake drum will have to be replaced?”

I still find it hard to believe that the drum thickness is only 3/16″ because it is internally splined for the driven discs of the clutch. My experience has been that the drums fail internally from metal-to-metal spline/disc contact and not from brake wear, so I wouldn't worry about that for awhile. Only Yuchai would know the history of the Mean Time Between Failure (MTBF) rate of any of the individual parts and/or assemblies. That's why accurate maintenance records are important.

Predictable failures, what a concept. Been doing it successfully for years (but not with Yuchai dozers).

In looking at that new style brake band, it looks like something that it would be easy enough to fabricate and then have the local brake shop line it with segments.  Then you just have to get the old one out and you could snake the new one in, right?

I have ordered 2 brake bands from Circle G. Will post pictures when I get them.

This does not mean that I am pulling the final drives. I want to see how the brake bands are made and how easy to modify.  Hoping I can play dentist and remove rivets from one side of my current bands.  I could then pull my worn brake bands out replacing them with nylon straps. The bands would be relined with riveted segments and the rivets I removed replaced with bolts. That is my dream.

Reality may be much different.

I tried to use #11 but could not get enough slack. I wound up tagging and disconnecting lines and totally removed saddle bag. Even at twice the price if the new style band will work on the older dozier they would be well worth it. Maybe Circle G would include the new linings in one of their orders and bring down the price to where it is more reasonable? Bob is right, Most of the wear was on the inside of the break hub. The break surface was pristine…

Phil:

“I have ordered 2 brake bands from Circle G. Will post pictures when I get them.”

Two? They will not be segmented, but should be riveted. I think Phillip still has NOS (New Old Stock). Depending on the type of lining used on the NOS bands you may be able to cut the lining in-situ to achieve the new affect.

Yes, two. Thought about just one but then had the idea of having a second set of brake bands. This also helps the dealer get rid of obsolete stock. Even found I had an old brake riveter, source unknown. If I have to have four bands redone by a brake shop, no problem. Just the idea of removing the final drives opens my wallet.

Phil

Phil:

“Even found I had an old brake riveter, source unknown.”

WOW! That brings back memories. I remember using a brake shoe arcing machine back in the early '60's that would profile the linings after they were riveted to the shoes. It was kinda like a vertical drum sander. Got to inhale all the asbestos dust I that could handle.

Just received my NOS (new old stock) brake bands from Circle G. Very fast service and a free pocket knife!

The new segmented brake bands are more round, look to have thicker lining and have 36 rivets to the old bands that have 22 rivets.

Appears that the clips on the NOS bands are riveted on both ends.

I wouldn't consider modifying these linings.

Two knowledgeable and experienced people have told me that I must remove the final drives on my dozer to get my old brake bands (worn band) out. The new segmented brake bands (new band) can be installed/removed from the top. For me, the jury is still out so let me state my case.

For ease of comparison, I down loaded Shannon's pictures in his post #46 in the Yachai Brake Adjustment topic, the picture of the new segmented brake band, post #39 of this topic and picture of the “new old” brake band (old band) post #51 of this topic, to my computer desktop.

FACTS:

Picture of new band shows bolts on the long unlined band end (long end) and rivets on the short unlined band end (short end).

The segments allow the new band to open and fit around the brake drum.

Bolted end of new band must be removed prior to installing/removing from the top.

ASSUMPTIONS:

After new band is installed, bolts are installed with the long end sticking out of the top of the casting.

The worn band should be thin allowing the band to open like the new band.

If the new band can be attached/removed from the brake cam from the top so can the worn band.

DISCUSSION:

I cannot ignore the advice already given so I will remove the dozer ROPS and park it on 2×12's. My plan is to:

Remove the top of the brake band casting.
Detach the worn band ends.
Pull the long end out of the casting so all four rivets are out of the top. Shannon's picture shows I have plenty of room.
Seal the top of the casting to prevent contamination.
Drill out the four rivets and remove end.
Unseal the top of the casting.
Attach a nylon strap to the rivet holes.
Pull the worn band out of the casting by the short end.
Vacuum bottom of casting, if possible.
Install new band.

If this does not work, then I have no choice but to remove the final drives. Any suggestions or comments?

I don't see a big problem with yanking out the old bands.  (with the caveat that once you've started you're committed!)  It's putting un-segmented bands in that I was worried about.  The older versions have a thicker metal backing.  My concern was that you would have to straighten them so much to get them in that they will deform past their plastic limit.  This would then put a kink in the band and that's bad.

The new bands are thinner and more flexible.  the segmentation will also let them bend easier.

I say, if you are prepared to go all the way (removing the finals) then there is no downside to having at it!  The cost/benifit analysis is pretty clear.

I amend that last statement a little.  There is one small downside and that is you don't get to inspect your clutches by avoiding the full job.  It sounds like you are a person that's not going to avoid work if it has to be done though.

Good luck and post pictures. 

Well, I think you nailed it.

However, there is one caveat: the nylon strap must not be thicker than the band AND lining combined – at any point, in order to get past the adjusting screw bosses. My suggestion, instead of a nylon strap, would be to use a length of wide sheet steel such as package strapping, which you can probably get for free from doing a little dumpster-diving. And it's less likely to get snagged.

And you can still pull the finals if you have to.

I also agree with Grizz in that you don't get to inspect the steering clutches. Could be a Pandora's Box that you don't want to open just yet.

Like the strap idea. I tend to fall more in Leon's camp i.e. If it ain't broke……

Shannon, Did you purchase the new segmented brake bands? After looking at the new old bands, I do not see how the metal could get much thinner.

Based on comments in the total tear down topic, I did some measurements. From the ground to the top of the ROPS is 90″ and it must be lifted 7″ to clear brackets. My HF gantry crane is set at 11'  and the max height of the chain hoist hook is 108″ leaving me only 11″ to play with. Very close!!

I was looking closely at mine yesterday and believe that the ROPS can be lifted out of the sockets and rotated 90° so it can be moved off over the rear of the tractor without additional lifting. I will verify this soon. I also have a HF gantry crane. Two, actually.

I also have an idea for a transmission jack adapter that will allow pulling the final drives easily – without removing the sprocket. Stay tuned. As soon as I get my shop useable things should start to flow.

Measured the brake metal band on both “new old bands”.  0.087″

Or, 2.2mm, or approximately 12 gauge. Hmm, thought they would be thicker than that.

Looking at the two pictures in this thread, I stand corrected.  the bands look quite similar in thickness. the extra flexibility must come completely from the segmented pads.  I really would like to get my hands on a set.  Of course I'd like to get my hands on a dozer but that's another thread.

I second the idea of using something smooth, thin and strong rather than a strap.  If a strap gets caught on something you're in a world of hurt.

Blaze the trail Phil!

There is only one flaw to “The Law Of Leon's” – “If it ain't broke, don't fix it.” and that is: If it ain't broke and I don't see it, then maybe it's about to.

Just sayin'

Grizz:

“Of course I'd like to get my hands on a dozer but that's another thread. “

My friend, you have the patience of a nun.

Are those grooves supposed to be there?

That drum is toast. I'll bet the clutch action was sporadic and sticky at best. Those grooves prevent the discs from separating under load, and also prevent them to compress easily. I would expect to see this type of wear on a machine with a few thousand hours on it, or from a machine that someone rode the steering clutch pedals.

Phillip has a pic of a new one here.

What does the externally splined hub look like? And the teeth on the discs?

(almost scared to look). The discs are steel, the drum and hub are cast iron. The discs MAY be okay.

The externally splined hub and disc teeth did not show any wear. Was a little tricky sliding apart. Discs wanted to catch on drum. Machine had 102 hours on it at the time..

I'll bet it was tricky sliding apart. Teeth were catching on each groove.

On the clutch discs: If any of the internal or external teeth have become pointed OR the facing on the lined discs has become cracked or broken, OR any of the discs are warped, they must be replaced. Periodic inspection of the steering compartment drain plugs might have detected the cast iron dust.

I inspected the steering compartment with in days of getting the dozer. Inspection of steering compartment reviled 90w gear lube. Most of the bearings and seals in final drive had failed. Next dropped pan on final drive and found what was left of my bearings and seals.  

That's right, I forgot. You bought it used as I recall.

Looks good Phil. Maybe a stack of appropriatly sized washers welded/bolted to the dollies would make a little “post” for the ROPS to center over.

Good work Phil.  

That HF Engine Support Bar looks like just the ticket,  but I don't think I can use it due to all of the extra trimmings on top of mine. Should be crossing that bridge soon.

Still do not know what brake bands I will use but could not wait. Opened up the top of the left “brake casting” to see about removing the old band. It looks like I will have to rotate the brake cam so the pin holding the short end of the band is out of the casting.

Question: Do I remove the brake cam roll pin or do I remove the arm that rotates the shaft and reinstall to use for leverage in rotating the cam?

I'm thinking you'll need to relocate the arm on the splines so you can rotate the cam far enough to get the pins out of the band, and then remove the lever and shaft and cam in order to slide the brake band out.

My old brake band on the left side has been removed from the top but to do this, I had to cut the end of the band off rendering it unusable for relining. The ends are not only riveted but welded to the band. New brake band will be segmented!

I ended up drilling a hole in the band for a wire and pulled the old band out using my gantry crane. An engine hoist could also be used. The hardest part of the job was removing the brake cam shaft. This shaft must be removed first to remove the pins.

To sum this topic up, the final drives DO NOT have to be removed to install the new segmented brake bands.  Doing a brake job is really not that hard.

Phil:

The hardest part of the job was removing the brake cam shaft. This shaft must be removed first to remove the pins.

I'm curious if any of the lining cracked or broke when you pulled it around, and how hard was it to pull? Approximate equivalent to lifting a weight, in pounds.

Do you have the new bands installed already? Good for you. Glad it went easy.

I will still be pulling my final drive assemblies because I want to inspect the steering clutches.

The old band is now segmented. As to how hard it was to pull, I can only say a person could probably not do it by hand, but with a 1/2 ton chain hoist it was very easy. I think it would have been easy with a 1/4 ton hoist.

Have not received the new bands yet and I plan on only doing one brake at a time. I think by pushing and pulling, the new band will be easy to install. Will post when I have installed the new band.

As far as I am concerned, the condition of the steering clutches, main clutch, gears, etc. can remain a mystery. All work just fine!

Steering clutch brake bands, and my postulation for modifying the existing lining (including replacing the aluminum rivets with brass), or completely relining with segments from new friction material instead of the “fire hose” type OEM lining.

The light colored band has the worst rivet job I've ever seen – some rivets are not even countersunk. The dark colored band is the second worse job – some rivets have separated and bulged the lining.

Something is wrong with SimplePress. Tried several times.

The website cannot display the page
HTTP 500
	Most likely causes: The website is under maintenance. The website has a programming error.
	What you can try:
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I can't upload any images.

Still not working.

Tried to upload this picture of my cat using the toilet just to see if upload worked.

I guess I've been admonished then. I moved the post to TBN.

I guess I've been admonished then. I moved the post to TBN

No way Bob. You stated it exactly like  it was.  A 500 error is not on your side.  Those codes come from the server.  This is for sure a server error that comes and goes and could be caused by the server being overloaded and simply can't fulfill all of the requests at a given time. That's one price for bargain basement hosting.

See the http status codes that start with 500 at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/L…..atus_codes

Still broken.

Strange, works for me

Just tried it again, this time loading a new pic off the computer, still works. Are you using the phone as a tether? There has to be an explanation, but I would be the last one to know what it is. Rich, remember seeing this stuff in another life?

Bob R., this may sound stupid, but as someone who doesn't know WTF is going on, let's try something. E mail me a picture that I can try to upload and see if that works. Maybe the server has a problem with the path to your URL?

No server in its right mind would allow you to post such a horrifying picture!  That's positively obscene, all that white frozen stuff.  Glad we've outlawed that here!

Eric,

The problem I'm having is accessing the images after I've uploaded them into the Simple:Press file folder. That's when I get the #500 Error message.

Rich,

Well, nothing has changed. Still doesn't work for me.

It sounds like Hal needs to find out why simple press doesn't like you, since myself and others are not having the same problem. Stupid question, but have you tried uploading other pictures, ones that have loaded fine in the past? Again if you want to e mail me the pictures I can try posting them, that way we know for sure if it's the pictures themselves or simple press simply has a personal vendetta against you.

This whole thing is quite bizarre to me.

Ok, lets try it Eric.

PM me your email addy and I'll send you a couple of pics.

Well at least I can do videos.

It's the pictures Bob. Everything was fine until I uploaded them. Now I can't access my three pages of pictures either, same error code.

 Update, I tried again, same result. The fact I never had this problem before loading these two pics tells me one of them somehow screwed up simple press. How, who knows. I'll contact Hal and see if they can be removed from our folders, and I'll bet we will have access again.

I'm sorry Eric, I had no idea.

That is so strange. The pic of the Rankin scraper is older and was taken with the camcorder, the brake bands, newer, with the phone and resized. I don't see the connection to the phone because I've used it before with no issues.

Well we probably won't know now but all I can think of is the file name for one of them is causing the problem, after all they are just jpeg files. Perhaps if the one simple press doesn't like had been re-named it would work That's all I can figure.

Guess the ball is in Hal's court now.

Actually, Hal is aware of the problem, but haven't heard any word.

Tried to order the new bolted segmented brake bands but have been told the bolted brake bands are no longer being sold and that the final drives must be removed to replace brake bands. 

That sort of confirms my suspicions. What I was beginning to realize is that the additional thickness of the lining material would make it extremely difficult, if even possible, to pull past the threaded bosses used for the adjusting bolts.

The other issue, which is obviously a concern to the Chinese, is the securing of the eye ends to the brake band by riveting AND welding. WTF? Either they don't trust their rivets or they don't trust their welds. The eye ends on almost all other steering brake bands are forged steel and use shoulder bolts instead of rivets and welding, which I was going to explore using 1/4″ x 5/8″ fillister head shoulder screws.

My apologies for being truant with responding to emails and videos as I am behind on other priority projects due to a change in work schedules (the job that pays the bills). Everything should be back to a normal flow in a couple more weeks.

Finally…. my dozer final drives have been reinstalled and the dozer should  soon be back in operation. I did a lot of complaining about having to remove the dozer final drives just to replace brake bands and thinking my brakes band should have lasted longer. Well… the brake bands were not badly worn but the right brake band was soaked in oil. Turns out I had a defective brake drum where the shaft hole was off the center line of the drum. Now, I have new brake bands with the thicker pads and a new right brake drum that should outlast me.

I would not be telling the truth if told you I hadn't thought about selling the dozer instead of replacing the brake bands. Looking back, I learned much about the dozer and problem solving. Would I do it again…probably. Would I do it for someone else….NOT A CHANCE!

What I learned:

I should have been opening the drain plugs in the “brake/steering” casting and the sides of the transmission looking for oil every time I did maintenance on the dozer.

It is a tight fit for these new brake bands. Left side went together fine but not right side. On the right, I had to turn down a piece of 1″ pipe to keep the new brake drum centered while I worked to get the drum into the brake band.

It IS a big job replacing dozer brake bands and I had to have a gantry crane with two hoists. One hoist to lift and hold the “saddle” and one hoist to lift the final drive. This hoist along with a transmission jack helped me align the brake drum with the steering clutch when I reinstalled the final drive units.

My go to place for dozer parts is Northern Tool. I received quality parts at a fair price. Northern's procedure was great and they were very helpful in getting me the right parts. Yuchai was great to work with and answered emails promptly.  A big thanks to Bob Rooks for his help and advise.

That's good news!  Thanks for the progress report.

Holy Moly, just slightly off center!

Aw c',mon, Tin!  That hole is within a tolerance of plus or minus an inch, whaddya want for a 'dozer?  It ain't a race car, y'know! 

You'd think that thing would ahve shaken the beejeezus out of the lathe when they were boring it at the factory, wouldn't you?  Or maybe they just bore the hole in a drill press – by eye.  Drill press man had some serious astigmatism, I guess…

Yep, that’s a pretty eccentric machining job. I wonder if they used the OD of the drum for their center base line? In any event, I hope you replaced it with a new one. Glad to hear it’s all getting back together. And any seasoned mechanic that’s been around heavy equipment will tell you that stranger things have happened, even with domestic products. Even though the original fault lies in the machining of the part, it is also incumbent of quality control personnel and the final assembler to spot these defects.

There are people out there that do this type of work 365/24/7, and often in the worst situations and weather imaginable, and they make it look easy.

“A good mechanic isn't expensive, he's priceless”