steering clutch on Guilin Jlw-d2

The clutch discs (not the plates) are not unlike those used in Borg Warner hydraulic “Velvet Drive” reverse gears as used in boats, forklifts, and many industrial applications where they run “wet”. They are NOT cerro-metallic as advertised, but a sintered carbon/copper composite. Personally I wouldn’t try to degrease them because they have become saturated with oil. From your photo it appears the discs have a riveted friction media. Correct?

You must have one of the older Guilin dozers, all of the later model Yuchai’s have drain plugs in the steering clutch compartment, as well as vents in the top cover. One of the periodic inspection points is to check the steering clutch compartment for oil by removing the plug. I would carefully drill and tap a 1/2″ NPT hole at the lowest point in the compartment, but don’t drill into a bolt boss.

I assume you will be installing new seals. Replacing brake bands while you’re in this deep?

Do you have a two or three cylinder engine? Do you have a parts and/or owner's manuals?

Chances are that the clutch discs you recieve aren't going to be riveted, so don't be surprised.

Be aware that if you remove the red sealer coating from the parts, casting sand will sluff off. That's why it's painted on there, it's not just a Chinese thing either.

As far as torquing specs, just use the standard metric guide for the correct property class fastener.

Be sure to inspect the internal splines on the brake drum.

Seal installation: Lip always goes towards the oil.

Lubricants: Transmission and bevel gear compartment (common sump) – 80w/90 gear oil. Final drives (one on each side) 85w/140 gear oil.

The “strange” nut holding the brake drum on is like an axle nut found on almost all trucks. You can get a socket at NAPA or any GOOD auto parts store. They will need dimensions

Yes, each fastener whether metric or “inchric” has a torque spec based on the class/grade of steel used and the thread pitch and diameter.  There are charts available all over the internet, just Google “Torque Charts” and you'll find one that will tell you what you need to know. 

That Central Driveshaft Bearing Base appears to be threaded in.

Tinbender is correct. You will need a pin spanner wrench or deep axle socket, with two ears removed, of the appropriate size to unscrew it. Expect it to be real tight because it carries the side loading from the bevel gear. I don't know what the torque is, but after you get it reassembled you should take a blue reading on the bevel gear set to make sure it wasn't disturbed. In fact, take a reading before disassembly so you can compare. This procedure is detailed in the owner's manual.

Markr wrote:

“2.  assuming that is the best way to remove seals can do you think I can do that with the driveshaft in?”

Umm, nope.

Use hydraulic oil: ISO AW 32 or ISO AW 46 (it's cheaper, and it's recommended).

Try one of these, I picked this up on Amazon to replace the cam and front crank (oil pump) seals on my Subaru. The Lisle part # is 58430    : Edit#2 I can't seem to put a picture and text on the same post today, try again:

Thinking about the depth of the bearing base you may or may not have to make a longer spring steel hook like the one on the end of the tool.

The seals are set into the back side of the bearing base, which will have to be removed (unscrewed) from the main case to be changed. I really don't think it can be done in situ, but good luck in trying.

Without seeing the housing in the diagram I ass-umed the seals were in the housing behind the bearing base, but that makes sense. Why else would it be called a bearing base, duh.

If it were me, I'd let the seals be replaced from the outside so you wouldn't have to remove the bearing base. Must be Chinese logic.

You have to be real careful about that with these machines, they don't have rock guards on the swing frames nor the sheet metal to cover them. These aren't Caterpillar. You're lucky you didn't break that bull gear shaft.

Good luck in your travels.

Mark didn’t explain how he removed the transmission/clutch compartment oil seals without taking out the bearing base, I just encountered the same problem. First I drilled pin holes in the the bearing base and made a tool which could engage the pin holes. The bearing base was way too tight and wouldn’t budge so I gave that idea away.

I searched topics on CTOA and found Mark’s post which convinced me to remove the seals with the bearing base still in place. I drilled a small hole through the face of the seal then inserted a Gland Packing Puller which is a strong flexible steel rope with a corkscrew on the end (tip- attach vicegrips to the handle end which creates a surface you can tap with the hammer). The seals come out easily.

There are two oil seals, an inner and outer. I noticed the shaft surface where the outer seal rides was rusty and has chewed out the seal lip. When I am ready to fit the new seals I will sand the shaft back to a smooth surface and apply a little grease which will help prevent rust from returning.