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Im new on this forum but used to be on the old one years back…
Any how Im trying to figure out how to get a lug nut stud out that is stipped out on the head. Front wheel on my 354…
I can't get the wheel off, the stud just spins. I have ordered a set of new studs.
Do I need to cut the nut off with a torch? Would be my last resort..lol
If I remove the 16mm bolts on the flange behind the tire would that allow me to get at the studs?
Thats for any input..
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Does the nut spin on the stud or does the stud spin in the hub?
If the nut spins on the stud, you could weld the nut to the stud and then try to unscrew the stud from the hub. You may need to apply penetrating oil and/or heat to the hub if it is stuck. Also a couple of sharp whacks on the stud may help “shock” it loose. If this all works then all you need is a new stud and nut. I recommend anti-seize on the stud.
If the stud spins in the hub, that is an uglier matter. Cutting the nut off with a torch, being careful not to hurt the wheel may be your only option. Once the wheel is out of the way you will have better access at least. You will probably have to drill out the old stud, hard to do if the darned thing is spinning.
Working on the assumption that the threads in the hub are still OK and it is just the stud that is damaged, you may be able to spot weld the remains of the stud to the hub. If you can do this on the face of the hub to keep the spot weld away from the threads, you should be able to then drill a hole through the stud using a diameter of drill that is slightly smaller than the threads in the hub. Then you can grind off the spot weld and use a chisel or punch to carefully knock the stud away from the threads of the hub.
If I didn't explain this very well, let me know and I will try again. It is clear in my head, just not sure I can translate it to text very well.
Let us know how it goes.
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Hey thanks for the reply Piper184… The studs spin in the hub, 4 of them… I got all the nuts off but one. Hmm so they thread into the hub… Why do they just spin and not come out? I thought that they had small grooved heads on them.
What a drag
if I have to weld and drill and then grind lots of time and no fun..A new hub is 95 bucks might go that route. Time is money… My first plan will be to get the tire off… I guess I'll torch the nut off, I used an end wrench and vise grips to get the other nuts off.
I bought this 354 used and one stud was already stripped out, I guess I should have checked the tightness on the other one more often…dam.
Thanks again…
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Hmmm, now you have me thinking…
I have a 284 and it uses a threaded hub with bolts to hold the wheel on, no lug nuts. I guessed that your studs would be “equipment style”, that is, threaded into the hub.
I just looked the studs up online and they are indeed “automotive style” that have the head and spline shoulder that press in from the back side.
Since that appears to be the case, the splines strip out when someone uses a impact wrench (instead of a torque wrench) to install the lug nuts. over tightening definitely will strip the splines and cause the stud to spin.
You will need to knock the nut off of the stud to get anywhere. A cutting torch is one choice another is a BIG cold chisel and a BIG hammer swung with a lot of force. I would try the hammer option first in hopes of breaking the stud. The gas axe option has a lot more things that can go wrong.
With 4 of them spinning, the question then becomes “are the holes in the hub wobbled out too much?”
With luck, the splines on the stud stripped and the holes are still small enough to grip a new stud. You won't know until you get it all apart.
Options are to replace the hub (a lot of work I would imagine) or spot weld the head of the new stud to the hub. Not an elegant fix, but could save the price of a new hub.
Another option may be to get an oversized stud. The shoulder area would be slightly larger than original just for these kinds of situations. I don't know if they are available for your size or not. My guess is that they are metric. You may be able to find an English size that is slightly larger than the original, you may have to drill out the stud holes to make a larger stud fit. I know that lug nuts can be had in different taper sizes for the same size stud. Again, this is a “dirty” fix that makes real mechanics cringe, but may be the only option that is viable or even available.
Let us know what you find when you get it apart. I will keep my fingers crossed for an undamaged hub and tight fitting new studs!
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Well I finally got the wheel off, 1 minute with the torch and done. No damage to the rim minus some burned paint.. I then removed the hub assembly by removing the 16mm bolts around the edge.
Next I had to use 2 crow bars to pop the final gear and small bearing off the axle shaft. It slid right off without any damage to the smaller inner bearing. Next was the circlip and it all came apart with a little tapping.
The axle flange where the automotive style studs go didn't look damaged. The grooves on the studs were worn smooth. I will install the 4 new studs once they show up. I'll clean everthing up and put it back together. Then grease the hub it looks like it will take a bunch. Last refill the gear oil in the axle. i'll torque the lug nut to 85-90 ftlbs..
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Yay! I like a happy ending.
For what it is worth, I went out and looked at my 284 because I just could not remember how it was put together. It has the equipment style studs that are threaded into the hub, which is what my first guess was. The parts book that I was looking at earlier today shows it using bolts to hold the wheels on, so the parts book is wrong for my machine. Not the first time this has happened.
I hope your replacement parts are the correct ones and arrive soon.
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