Torn between the two

What in the world are you talking about

What is wrong with PVC?  I have used wire molding before but that was inside a single wall cabin. Wire molding is not something I would use in a garage/shop.  Phil

my vote would be EMT.  Protects better when things don't go as planned in the shed.  The actual conduit is cheap as dirt.  They get ya on the connectors.

If u want to go easy and water tight and have the ease of installing I’d just go with liquid tight. it has water tight fittings and is very flexible. the liquid has a PVC coating and a metal jacket to protect it.

When I had to go around a bend, I used flex PVC.

I ran my PVC conduit around my shed up high dropping down from a box for light switches and plugs. Have one main light and zone lighting for work areas, all florescent. Put 120V plugs approx. every ten feet and 240V plugs at front and back of shed plus a 240V plug for my air compressor. The air compressor has its own switch with a light so I will not forget to turn off the compressor when done. Each 120V plug box had one ivory plug and one brown plug for the two phases.

Have fun.   Phil

thats a good idea for the compressor. i just have a discconnect switch with a line starter as its control. i forget to turn it off all the time i got 208 3ph on compressor so just got to steal a wire and maybe move the disconnect by the door so i dont have to walk all the way back in to turn it off.

id stayed away from the pvc or the flex pvc it breaks wayto ease. also when the building settles the pvc joints come apart.

i like the liquid tight its just as ease to run as bx but water tight and stronger.

very ease to snake wires though it just make a hook on the one end of the wire then feed it though, that trick works with all types of conduit.

I didnt know I had “EMT” in my shop I guess Im the Sh&$. When I did mine I don remember it bein a big expense, however prices on wire and such are throught the roof. Unless your shop is hummidy controlled water proofing will never happen.

Just make you sure you put your refigurator on a seperate circuit, so you dont get any warm beer problem.

I prefer a zip disc in a 4-1/2″ angle grinder.  That little hand crank saw is pretty tedious if you have a lot to do or long lengths to split.  It is the best bet for splitting the BX that has the wires already in it. 

When mixing EMT and BX, be sure to get the steel BX, not the aluminum, unless you want electrolytic corrosion.  I'm sure you already know that, being a mariner, though.

i say with the zip good idea if no wires do it my self all the time. the hand tool two or three cranks a quick twist then pull and ur done. dont for get the red heads

really the kit ill have to look into that

lol should of seen that one coming. red heads are fun lol

bob that is coming together very nice