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Hi Greg, welcome.
This project of yours should be very interesting and informative. Look forward to seeing it unfold.
Not sure what a model PT-400 dozer is. Is it a Yuchai? Guilin? I know that Yuchai used to make a model YCT-406 but that has been discontinued for a couple of years now. Only difference I could tell was that the engine was a four cylinder 40 HP. All other specs seemed to be the same.
Would love to see some pics, at your convenience.
If I get my garage built I plan on doing the brake bands on mine, and maybe some steering clutch work too. Got oil on the left band. I'm coming up on 600 hrs. so I figure that's not too bad, considering.
Good luck, and feel free to post any questions.
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PT-400 is a Guilin Product. My Engine is a 295, a two cylinder model. 26HP I think. I used to Live in Stanwood Wa, which is where I bought this unit. Got her washed up this weekend and I am set to start taking her appart.
Before this project I designed and built a 2 ton crain in my shop (saftey factor of 2). Did all the work myself.
Here is one thing I need to fix. I am going to redesign this joint. Crack is both sides of blade arm…
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That is one beautiful shop!!
Reminds me of when I worked for Caterpillar. They spared no cost on their new shop. Even had dual railroad tracks embedded in the concrete floor for driving the crawlers on, and every service bay had a 10 ton gantry crane like yours. We never lifted anything heavier than a ham sandwich. 
If that failed weldment is where I think it is, the later (Yuchai?) wishbone design incorporated a full width upper and lower gusset plate.
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Thanks all for the complements. Shop has it's own 200 amp service and air supply furnished by a IR 5hp 2 stage free standing 80 gal air compressor. Shop is 24 X 36 ft. Very proud of it to tell you the truth.
. Shop is kind of messy right now. Going to clean it up some before I back the dozer up into the shop. Oh I forgot. Got a stereo in it too so I can rock out to some classic rock. -
That broken joint looks like it was under-engineered to begin with and then subsequent repairs just exacerbated the problem by creating a brittle heat-affected-zone (HAZ) at the edges of the weld. When you weld a piece that is under high stress and vibration like this piece, I recommend that you pre-heat the weld area to about 400°F and also post-heat and peen the welds. That relieves the welding stresses in the HAZ so you don't create a stress riser. The addition of a gusset so the welds aren't under high tensile stress will also help – it will distribute the stresses over a wider area.
Very nice looking shop! I sure wish I had a gantry crane in my shop, but I just don't have the overhead height and I have two posts in the middle. Best I can do is a little jib crane over the welding bench. I have one of those cherry-picker engine hoists but my shop is so crowded now there's no floor space left to roll it!
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Greg wrote:
“Oh I forgot. Got a stereo in it too so I can rock out to some classic rock.”
At PACCAR Truck R&D we had a 1,000 watt home made stereo in our two bay shop that one of the engineers built. It was awesome playing “Inagodadavida”. Probably where some of my hearing went. Be careful with that stuff…
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Well she is in the shop. I wanted to back her in but she would only go forward. Plan is to start from the outside and work my way into the center. First part to remove was the top and I already ran into an issue. My overhead crain is not high enough to lift it off the dozer. Opps
Looks like I will have to hang a chain from the roof trusses to get her removed.
Last week I picked up a couple heavy duty shelfs to store parts as I remove them from the dozer
Here is a shot of one of them
As you can see I got the battery already removed. While I was picking up the shelfs the had this used workbench on display and I decided to add that to my shop as well
This will be great for doing detail work. Here is my existing bench all cleaned up ready to get dirty again
This bench is 13 ft long and 6 in thick. I used gluelam beams to build her. She weight 500 lbs.
I don't like wimpy benches…
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Well, I'm drooling now. Very nice work benches. That looks like the industrial shelving from Costco.
I have the same issue with low overhead, but I'm hoping I may be able to jack up the portable gantry crane high enough between the roof trusses. I haven't gotten that far yet – still putting sealer on the concrete. It's slow going.
I think you will only have to raise the ROPS enough to clear the sockets and then maybe you can rotate it.
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Bob, I had planned on trying your suggestion for the ROPS. Once I get it off the sockets then I would use the overhead crain to move it out of the way.
Plan forward for the next few weeks:
Dismantle the backhoe
Remove blade
Remove ROPS
Remove all actuators/controls/hoses
Remove saddle bags
Remove tracks
Remove radiator (need to be repaired. has a leak)
Remove engine
Remove gas tank
Remove dash board
Hope to have all this done by end of the year
Any tips?????
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Bob Rooks or Leon (mailman55) would have the best advice but in my humble opinion the tear down will be the easy part. Putting it back together will be another story. I had to remove the casting that holds my radiator for repair and I do not think I could have put it together without my hydraulic spreader. (HF 10 ton portable hydraulic equipment.) Another would be putting on your tracks. Remember reading about someone using a HF pull back ram and custom hooks. I built something out of 1″ all thread and five nuts. Welded one nut on the end of the all thread so I could turn with a socket wrench. Then I made hooks out of 1/4″ metal and welded two nuts to each hook. Have not tried it yet but I am ready just in case I throw a track.
Phil
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Greg,
Your plan looks good. Here are my suggestions, in order. Leon may have others.
2) Dismantle the backhoe (Assume you mean to just drop and set aside.)
1) Remove blade
3) Remove ROPS
4) Remove all actuators/controls/hoses
6) Remove saddle bags
5) Remove tracks (Drop swing frames at this point if you're going deep. Block transmission and differential case.)
7) Remove radiator (need to be repaired. has a leak)
10) Remove engine
9) Remove fuel tank
8) Remove dash board
As far as the tracks go, make sure the track tensioner is backed off all the way (the yoke shaft on the idler screwed back into the spring housing.). A quick and cheap way to bring the ends together is by using a couple of 1/4″ choker chains and a load binder – either type works well.
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Bob
If you remember at the beginning I was going to do a total tear down of the bulldozer. Well this will include the BH. She will get new hoses and a controller like you BH has, and a paint job. Cylinder don't leak externally, so no overhaul of those I am thinking.
SO this is what I have done so far
0) Battery is out
1) WD 40 every bolt and nut
2) Bucket and arms are removed from BH and bucket cylinder.
3) Blade lift cylinders removed
4) Blade angle cylinders removed
5) Working on removing the blade
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If you're using the WD-40 as a penetrating oil, a much more effective solution is a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. I haven't found anything that loosens frozen bolts better, and I've tried all the proprietary products like B'Laster, Liquid Wrench, Kroil, etc. Doesn't seem to matter what type of ATF you use, either. You need to keep it in a pump can that has Viton seals or it will eat the rubber.
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Latest. My overhead crain kick ass. Makes all of this so easy. Here is a pic of the blade after removal. Moving this out the way was a snap..
ROPS was a little more difficult to remove. I had to remove it in two steps. First I had to add a second lift to my roof trusses
I used this lift to lift the ROPS off the sockets then I transfered to the crain and lowered it to the floor. Again my crain kicks add
So here is what she looks like today.
Weekend is coming and I will be working on here both days. We will see how far I get
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WOW! You have been doing a LOT of work. I agree that overhead crane looks like it's indispensable.
Kinda scary seeing it all taken apart like that….and the worst is yet to come!
Good job and thanks for keeping us posted. Personally I'm looking forward to seeing what the final drives look like.
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This is not an attempt in any way to detract members from CTOA, but rather just a means to share my pictures and videos. It's still in the development stage, adding pics & stuff.
Stop by for a visit at facebook.com/yuchaidozer
If Hal removes the link just email or IM me.
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Okay yall, Need some help. Got The clutch torn down last night and found this. Lots of wear damage…
This to means means I have a shuttle problem. Frozen on the shaft. Anyone seen this? Already ordered a new part.
Next looking at the clutch plates I have no idea if they need to be replaced. I have no idea what the original thickness were. Any one have that number? I was thinking I would replace the clutch rings since I already have it torn down, but why spend the money if I don't have too.
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I'm speechless. Dear god! That was a dozer at one point? haha
I'm beyond impressed. You are taking this seriously. I think you're going to have a fine machine on your hands when you're done.
One thing: That new shift fork for the shuttle clutch… it doesn't seem to have the splines on the interior that the original does. Do you need a new shaft as well?
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Now I get it. You have a manual shuttle clutch, like that found on a wheeled tractor
Those pics sure bring back memories. Had many Cats down to the bone like that.
You're doing a great job. And btw, i found the OEM joy-stick hydraulic valve stack from my dozer if you're still interested.
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Okay
Back at it. Working on tearing the rear end down. I built me a moving moving work bench. As you can see I got LH drive housing removed. I need to replace the steering clutches as the are close to being worn out.
Here is a close up look at the steering clutches
Very rusty. Close up of drive housing
Close up of steering clutch removed.
Lots of dirty gear oil removed as well
By the way, since I have this thing totally torn down, If there are any pictures you want me to talk let me know and I will see what I can do
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Hi Greg, and everyone else!
I will be following this closely… I have a 1993 Guilin 252L over here in NZ. This last week it developed shuttle issues, so no doubt I will be heading in a similar direction.
I think I got a bit low on oil in the shuttle clutch housing, and it is now working hard in forward and slipping a bit as it engages, but reverse is still working fine. I have taken of the lid of the shuttle clutch housing, and there is nothing obvious to see damaged. With Hi/Lo in neutral and 1/2/3 stick in neutral, reverse engages and the engine ticks over freely, but when I engage forward the engine labours and chuggs, suggesting that something somewhere is partially seized or something. Any suggestions?
Cheers,
Simeon
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Been working on my shuttle issue today
I removed the selector shaft and yoke or fork… and low and behold it looked just like your one, Greg. Badly burnt, worn, and misshaped.
So certainly the yoke needs either replacing or possibly making an improved version (which at present I am thinking is the wise way to go as it appears there is a weakness here)… but the question remains as to what other damage there is.
I think I may do a temporary repair of the yoke, and just try it to see is it will free up the pressure plate… else it is out with the engine and make my dozer look like your one!
Where did you manage to get parts? The Chinese dozer chap in NZ said he couldn't help, and put me on to East Wind in Aussie, but they have their doubts too on parts for a 252L. 🙁
Cheers
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Hello Simoen,
Your symptom are exactly the same as mine where except I let it go to long.
The shuttle bearings seized up on the pressure plate and the drive shaft causing the engine to labour. Best thing for you to do is replace all the same parts I am.
My parts vendor in the US is Tim Nelson of Farmboy Tractors. He had all the parts except for the clutch plates. I found a manufacture in China that would make me a set of 300. I keep 14 from myself and sold the rest to Tim. Tim contact is Tim Nelson [tim@farmboystractors.com]. Most of the time I send him a picture of the parts. That way I get what I need. I am just about to order steering clutch parts and brake pads as they are worn out too.
I would like a copy of your parts list. I don't have one. I do have the owners manual which I have converted to Microsoft Word. Cleaned up some of the english too while I was at it.
I will be upgrading other things as I put the dozer back together. Electrical fuse box. Adding hydraulic pressure gauge. SAE gauges. Spin on fuel filter/water seperator and a single handle blade controller. I am also updating the controller for the backhoe to a two hangle design. As for the engine, I overhauled her about 100 hour ago. Not much to do there. I think my fuel time is off as I get black smoke during operation.
Only upgrade I have left on the engine is to changing the air filter over to a cone shaped K&N.
Cheers
Greg
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Hi guys, so it is turning out to be a busy few weeks, so not managed to finish fixing the dozer yet, but nearly there. I managed to track down a couple of release bearings that were close enough, and a replacement main shaft seal (140x110x12). The selector yoke I built up with weld and re ground. The slip ring I polished. The pressure plate I ground….
The problem with being in NZ is it often takes to long to get parts from other parts of the world, so I tend to end up modifying or making… If it is something I can't make do, then I will pursue more seriously getting it from USA or China.
Greg, when I get a spare hour or two I'll scan in that parts manual and email it to you. Thanks for all info. How many hours has your 252 done? Mine seemed to have no wear other than the damage from the seized thrust bearing. But frankly that is my fault, it had no oil in there!!!!
I got the engine back in yesterday and tried the drive, all seemed ok shunting in the work shop, so just need to put all the panels and guards back on… Next week maybe. I'm working out in the bush this week on the IHI is35GX excavator…
Once I get the dozer fully back together the mission is with the dozer and excavator to cut the new track through a small canyon in the bush into 80 acres of farm that we have never been able to access with machines… Should be alot of fun.
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More pictures of tear down. Here are the steering clutch parts. Seriously rusted and frozen together when I went to take it apart.
Here is the brake band. Completely worn out. Sitting on the rusty brake/steering drum
I am taking the entire thanks giving week off. My goal is to finish the last of the tear down. Pressure wash the part and start put her back together.
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Greg, do you think it had got wet in there, or is it just condensation? Pretty rusty hey. Finished reassembling mine yesterday, got her adjusted and work good, so took her up into the hills last night and worked until it got too dark. Raining today, so not working…
Do you know if the brake band in the same as the newer yct dozers? Hope you get replacements ok.
What was the hour clock reading on your 252?
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Tame wrote:
“Do you know if the brake band in the same as the newer yct dozers?.
On the new style brake bands the lining is thicker, and they are segmented. The idea was that you could replace them from the top without removing the final drives, but Yuchai recanted that so you still have to pull the finals.
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Today my dozer has developed issues with the left track. The brake tends to slip, and the steering clutch tends to slip… I adjusted the brake tighter, and it helped, but didn't solve it. I tried adjusting the steering clutch linkage, but no improvement. I presume that the steering brake and clutch are dry? Or are they wet?
Do you think that suggests there is oil in there making them slip…? Cheers.
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If you remove the drain plugs on the bottom of the steering compartments, that will tell all.
These clutches are spring actuated, and are the dry type. If things start slipping like you describe, it sounds like they are being lubricated – and they're not supposed to be. Check the final drive and transmission oil levels.
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Steering and Brakes are dry. My steering clutchs are not worn one bit. It appears my systems was completely rusted together and I was using the brakes to steer and control the dozer. At least I won't need to buy new steering clutch pads at $45 U.S. each. Parts vendor I work with is Farmboy Tractors in Tennesee. They have had every part I needed.
Simeon, I have 400 hrs on the tach. Engine overhauled at 250 hrs, because it had sat idle for a long time before I bought it. It was not running so I got it cheap. Did you get a chance to scan the part book?
Weather here in Texas has been nice, so I have been doing other things
No progress on the dozer. When the winter weather gets here I will be working on it more.
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