Yuchai Dozer Lubrication Points: locations, methods, frequency

1 – Engine Oil.  The picture points to a hamburger just behind the fan.  Any idea where the dipstick or other such device might be?

If you have the TY395E engine it will be lext to the flywheel housing on the left lower side of the engine. 15w-40.

2 – Clutch Case.  Yep I see it.  Is it a dipstick? if so is it the type that you sit on top to check or screw in completely?

Yes. Sits on top.

3 – Shuttle clutch hydraulic tank.  How do I check this one?

Some will have a sight gauge just like the other side. If you have a thick steel boss welded to the reservoir near the top, that's where one goes (I have one there), otherwise just remove the screen from the filler and use a clean stick (dowell).

4 – Other hydraulic tank.  I see the site gauge but do I relieve all the pressure in the lines first by actuating all the levers?  Does it matter?

No. Just make sure the blade is centered and resting on the ground. TPH should be lowered.

4a – by the way, I've been lowering the blade and hitch almost to the ground with the engine running then after shutting off the engine I lower them the rest of the way.  Is this ok? bad practice?

Curious why you do that? Best to lower with engine running but it doesn't really matter. It's an open center system.

5 – Final drive.  I looked in the big plug where the manual points.  Hmmm yep I see a big gear.  so what.

The big plug is the filler plug, the smaller plug below it is the tattletale that shows the correct level when the machine is sitting level (and the plug removed).

6 – Gear box.  Same question as 2.  dipstick? sit on top or screw in?

On top – always.

7- Injection pump oil.  Is there such a thing to check?  I heard it mentioned in other threads but the manual doesn't indicate it as a lubrication point.

There should be a small dipstick on the governor, they share a common sump. There is also a 6mm tattletale plug midpoint up the side – maybe, and a 6mm drain plug on the bottom – maybe. Mine doesn't have a drain, I use a Mitey-Vac.

The rest are Zerks and I think I get that.

The zerks are all brass and they will get broken off, sooner if not later. I replaced all of mine with steel ones from NAPA. Cheap.

don't know what kind of grease to use but I can ask Keno what they used.

Should be NLGI-1 rated, lithium based. Lubriplate works well if you want to pay $$$.

I kinda like Garrilus.  

3 – Shuttle clutch hydraulic tank.  How do I check this one?

Some will have a sight gauge just like the other side. If you have a thick steel boss welded to the reservoir near the top, that's where one goes (I have one there), otherwise just remove the screen from the filler and use a clean stick (dowell).

What level is “full” then?

Approximately 1/2 to 2/3. The actual level is measured in the clutch housing with the dipstick.

4a – by the way, I've been lowering the blade and hitch almost to the ground with the engine running then after shutting off the engine I lower them the rest of the way.  Is this ok? bad practice?

Curious why you do that? Best to lower with engine running but it doesn't really matter. It's an open center system.

Just seems like a good idea to take the pressure off the lines when I'm done.  I also started to do this when I found one of the lines was leaking.  If I relieved the pressure it would leak less.

Okay.

7- Injection pump oil.  Is there such a thing to check?  I heard it mentioned in other threads but the manual doesn't indicate it as a lubrication point.

There should be a small dipstick on the governor, they share a common sump. There is also a 6mm tattletale plug midpoint up the side – maybe, and a 6mm drain plug on the bottom – maybe. Mine doesn't have a drain, I use a Mitey-Vac.

I will look again.  It's not easy to see without removing the screens on the side.  Same goes for the engine oil dipstick.

I cut a little door in the screen, but not for the governor.

Am I just dense or shouldn't all this be in the manual?  wait…don't answer that.

 Okay…

Here is mine for comparison.

Yours appears to have a lot of RTV in the gasket joints. Hmm.

Your dipstick is too clean, Bob. 

Bob Rooks said:

“Some of the injection pumps don't
have dipsticks. Instead, they have a tattletale hole in the side, and
are filled through the vent at the top that looks like a mushroom.”

See:

http://johnstractor.homestead……rPump.html

“@phil: what is the big screw on the left in the first pic. The one with a knurled knob and threads showing.”

Those aren't threads, it's a compressed spring. That is the manual fuel priming pump, and it is attached to the fuel lift pump (fuel pump, with the big hex nut). When you use it, unscrew counterclockwise and it will pop up, then pump it up and down. You have to press it down an screw in clockwise when finished priming the fuel system.

@bob: there is RTV EVERYWHERE.

Then someone has been in there before. Ugh.

“Maybe just a reflection but yours looks scraped in the same spot.”

Camera flash.

“What color should i expect for the final drive oil? What is leaking out is almost black. looks like cooked motor oil.”

That sounds like the original Chinese crap (I'm not going to call it oil). What came in mine couldn't be diluted with diesel, de-greaser, paint or lacquer thinner. I drained it out the best I could and refilled with 90w-140 gear oil – a known quantity. It's still gear oil color.