Forum › Forums › Bulldozer & Excavator Operation and Maintenance › Yuchai Dozer Shuttle Clutch Pressure
- This topic has 20 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 2 years, 4 months ago by DavidPrivett.
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April 4, 2017 at 10:11 pm #46840
Hi
I have recently bought a second hand 2007 Yuchai Dozer YCT 306S-6 (50 hours). I have replaced final drive oils and shuttle clutch, still to do engine oil/filter and transmission. It has the shuttle clutch with accumulator. This has started making a knocking noise at the front of the shuttle clutch when put it in forward or reverse. I have noticed that the pressure relief adjusting screw (part of the F-N-R selector) was loose and maybe has worked its way out, therefore not getting enough pressure to engage forward or reverse all the way. Does this seem reasonable? If so, how do I go about setting the pressure to the correct value? I do not have a operation or service manual.
Mark
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.2007 Yuchai Dozer
YTC306S-6
Yellow
Queensland Australia -
April 5, 2017 at 4:04 am #46843
Hi Mark. I have my dozer stripped down and the shuttle clutch in pieces at the moment. The dozer was very slow to engage reverse and once engaged emitted a hydraulic squeal. I found the problem to be a damaged o-ring on the piston.
Need more information. Is the knocking sound the only issue or does your dozer have difficulty engaging forward and/or reverse? If it engages ok then I wouldn’t expect hydraulic pressure to be the problem.
Does it knock just once upon engagement or is it a continuous knocking? Did the knocking start after or before you changed the oil in the shuttle compartment? What oil did you fill it with?
Dozer YCT306S shuttle shift - root rake, tree-pusher, backhoe
Excavator Hyundai 17 tonQLD, Australia
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April 5, 2017 at 5:14 am #46844
Thanks for the reply. A squeal was there before the knocking, but I put it down to normal as I had nothing to compare it to. I can’t say that I notice the squeal now, but the knocking is consistent when it is in forward or reverse and appears to be coming from the front of the shuttle clutch behind the engine. It started before I changed the oil. I have checked the strainer and it was clear and oil was relatively clean with minor build up on magnet plug. The oil I put in was Penrite EP 220.
It engages and drives but the knocking is continuous and I won’t drive it until I fix the problem to avoid any further damage.
I will draw the hydraulic circuit to confirm that we are talking about the same type of clutch.
I have added a pic, because everyones love pics. It shows the lid top of shuttle cluth. Dipstick, breather and pressure relief return after it has passed through a cooler in front of the radiator.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.2007 Yuchai Dozer
YTC306S-6
Yellow
Queensland Australia -
April 5, 2017 at 5:28 am #46846
Without pulling it apart I can’t imagine what the “servo’s” look like. I would imagine 2 geared shafts submerged in oil below the output shaft. Are you able to share any pics of the internals?
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You must be logged in to view attached files.2007 Yuchai Dozer
YTC306S-6
Yellow
Queensland Australia -
April 5, 2017 at 6:15 am #46848
Mark, a consistant knocking sound is not good. Means something has come loose and is bashing against something else. Could even be your flywheel getting ready to fall off. Attached are some photos to help you see what might be going on inside since you don’t have a manual. Close to the oil dipstick is a small coverplate which holds the tachometer sensor. You might be able to remove it and insert a screwdriver to check for wobble in the flywheel. Check that it’s not the tacho sensor coming loose and rubbing on the ring gear.
As you can see there is not a lot between the flywheel and the transmission compartment that could account for the consistant sound you describe. Could be a bearing collapsed on one of the idler gears. Only other thing comes to mind is a problem in the engine bottom end and the knock sound simply amplifying through the bell housing thus disguising the location of your real problem.
I have the same machine and can help you out with parts manual. Hopefully we can get some better minds on this before you resort to pulling out the engine. Wait till the Americans wake up – it’s only 4am over there right now.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.Dozer YCT306S shuttle shift - root rake, tree-pusher, backhoe
Excavator Hyundai 17 tonQLD, Australia
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April 5, 2017 at 12:14 pm #46852
The gentleman that wrote a “manual” on the shuttle clutch initially had a problem with his in that the splined input shaft was machined slightly too short, so that might account for the knocking sound you hear (hopefully not).
There are no service manuals available for these machines, but the owner’s and parts manuals cover most of the basic stuff. If you will PM me your email address I will send you the manuals plus the shuttle clutch supplement.
I think the oil you selected is a bit heavy and slightly off target for this application. You have what is essentially a geared friction drive, similar to a marine or forklift transmission, and not unlike an automotive automatic transmission. The oil I recommend for these clutches is ISO AW 150 Machine Oil. ISO AW 46 hydraulic oil may also be used. Both of these oils will have an AGMA rating.
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April 5, 2017 at 2:51 pm #46856
An afterthought on the knocking noise. I would check the tang drive on the shuttle clutch’s hydraulic pump. These have been known to give problems on the tractor’s pump, but not aware of any issues with the clutch pump. Just a thought.
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April 6, 2017 at 5:20 am #46861
I drained the shuttle clutch and took the top off to have a better look. Found 2 broken gear teeth in the bottom. The come from the middle shaft front gear. Anyone able to tell me who can supply this part? 402.21H.117.
I’ll source new part, inspect inner piston and seal and install a pressure gauge to the system.
Relieved that I have found the problem, but far from having a working dozer again. 🙁
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.2007 Yuchai Dozer
YTC306S-6
Yellow
Queensland Australia -
April 6, 2017 at 12:37 pm #46864
If I remember correctly the operating pressure for the servos is around 40 – 60 psig.
I’m almost positive that’s not a normally stocked part. Your best bet, I think, would be to have a dealer order one for you (Eastwind?), or you may be able to order directly from Yuchai.
Man, that’s a bummer but glad you found it before it got worse.
Account deleted.
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April 7, 2017 at 3:54 am #46867
If you have no luck with Eastwind let me know. There is an excavator dealer in Brissy who has sourced some heavy parts for me direct from the factory in China. Only parts he couldn’t get were the seals for the shuttle clutch. I’ve ordered those from Circle G Tractors in USA. Check out their website. You will find the special seals for the cylinder on page 8; https://www.circlegtractorparts.com/yuchai-bulldozer-parts?p=8
Word of warning, when you strip the shuttle clutch there is a spring-loaded seated collar retainer which requires clamps and jigs or a shop press to remove.
Dozer YCT306S shuttle shift - root rake, tree-pusher, backhoe
Excavator Hyundai 17 tonQLD, Australia
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April 19, 2017 at 3:41 pm #46892
Ok, so new clutch gear has arrived. There were 2 available form the local distributor here in Australia. I’ll start next week pulling the front end apart and I have a friends small excavator to use as an engine hoist. I’ll let you know how it all goes.
Mark
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.2007 Yuchai Dozer
YTC306S-6
Yellow
Queensland Australia -
April 20, 2017 at 1:36 am #46897
Excellent. Some progress pics would be great too.
Account deleted.
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May 3, 2017 at 5:37 am #46906
Progress update…I dismantled front end and removed motor, removed front cover of clutch housing and was able to access the above mentioned gear.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.2007 Yuchai Dozer
YTC306S-6
Yellow
Queensland Australia -
May 3, 2017 at 5:40 am #46910
The new gear compared to the old gear looks “dirty”. It looks like it has been heat treated and kind of blue/brown in colour. The intermediate geat that it meshes with also has the same finish.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.2007 Yuchai Dozer
YTC306S-6
Yellow
Queensland Australia -
May 3, 2017 at 5:57 am #46914
I made a new gasket for the clutch end plate with new o-rings for the oil passages. I got the motor back in with assistance from the better half. Fell in easier than I expected, must have been the offsider. Have finished putting all parts together and have installed gauge under F-N-R selector. Tapped 1/8 BSPT gauge into T piece from pump. Once all fluids checked and topped up, motor started and warmed up for a few minutes. I had gears in neutral, gauge was showing 10psi when in neutral and then increased to above 60psi (full scale), when either forward or reverse was selected. The pressure adjustment screw made no difference. So this had me scratching my head and I need to investigate the hydraulic selector and pressure relief a bit more, to make sure it is all clean while trying to alos understnad the porting. I took a heap more pics so let me know if there is something in particular you want to see.
Mark
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.2007 Yuchai Dozer
YTC306S-6
Yellow
Queensland Australia -
May 4, 2017 at 4:04 am #46926
Ok. I took shifter off today and dismantled pressure relief. When in neutral the hydraulic ports dump straight back to return line. When in F or R the pressure is controlled by pressure relief. I found a metal shaving or swarf in the pressure relief that would have been jamming the piston, and not releasing the pressure. I will put back on tomorrow and attempt to set the pressure around 40psi.
Pictures show internals of pressure relief including the “extra” piece.
Mark
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.2007 Yuchai Dozer
YTC306S-6
Yellow
Queensland Australia -
May 4, 2017 at 1:15 pm #46929
Actually, 60 psi would be ok since it actuates the opposite servo (releases the reverse servo so the forward planetary is engaged, and likewise for reverse). The springs in the clutch packs are what actually engage and hold the engagement. The servos collapse the springs, allowing the planetary turn free. I know it sounds as clear as mud, but that’s how it works.
The gauge is a good idea but should be a 100 psi gauge. It will tell you when the strainer is plugged when the neutral pressure drops.
Account deleted.
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May 5, 2017 at 5:52 am #46939
Back to front on the spring function Bob. It’s probably a different set-up to what you’re used to. As opposed to a manual clutch on a car, the dozer shuttle springs act to maintain separation of the clutch plates, not hold them together. In neutral there is about 3mm clearance between both pistons and their clutch plates. When F or R is selected oil flow is diverted through one of two galleries that run lengthways through the shuttle shaft exiting a port behind a piston. Hydraulic pressure then overcomes the force of the spring and the piston clamps the clutch plates together directing drive (in the selected direction) to the transmission.
Today I had the “pleasure” of reassembling my shuttle with new seals. For the benefit of anyone else having to do this job I will explain how it was done. Understand that it is necessary to compress and hold a strong spring while fitting a split collar retainer on one end and a circlip retainer on the other. It had me scratching my head for a while until I noticed that the shaft would slip through the 40mm bore on my lathe. To fit the split collar I held the shaft tight in the 3 jaw chuck and compressed the spring using the tool post on one side and a g-clamp on the other. This allowed enough wriggle room to fit the split collar into it’s grove on the shaft. The circlip was easier. I first set it in position against the spring then slipped the long shaft through the bore (leaving the chuck loose). The tailstock was used to push the shaft deeper into the bore until the circlip snapped into place.
After assembly I tested the shuttle function with compressed air.
Dozer YCT306S shuttle shift - root rake, tree-pusher, backhoe
Excavator Hyundai 17 tonQLD, Australia
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May 8, 2017 at 2:48 pm #46945
There is another earlier version of the shuttle clutch that incorporates the use of two external hydraulic cylinders to engage and hold the clutch plates. You are right, I stand corrected. The steering clutches however, do work that way.
Account deleted.
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July 12, 2022 at 1:26 pm #49890
Hi – I am having issues with my forward motion on my DH326ST with a shuttle clutch. It will work for about 20 min and then loses power to move forward. Hydraulics continue to work and usually have some luck with reverse. In this state, only low range low gears will power the machine. Once cooled off, it’s back to working as it should for another 20 min.
Any direction or assistance would be appreciated!
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July 13, 2022 at 7:50 am #49891
what poking around on that machine I found is that the clutch/brake/steering box must by dry if a oil seal has failed and oils have contaminated the discs a power to the tracks problem will happen. I have never worked on these shuttle machines.
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