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Good points Larry. I know it probably dont make much sense but all I did was cleaned up the rust and snap ring groove on the front of the rear driveshaft and put it back together to see if that was in fact the only problem. To my surprise it was, and the 4WD works perfect as it is supposed to.
I thought for sure I was going to have to take it all back apart anyway to find the real problem, so I didn't remove the carrier and inspect the bearing as I should have. Now that I am convinced I will take the whole driveline out and clean up all the splines, replace the other snap rings, inspect the bearing and replace if needed. Once I figured out how it all came apart its not that big of a deal to do it again.
FYI, after re thinking exactlly what I was doing at the time I noticed it no longer worked it all makes perfect sense to me what happened. Every time I had allways used it before I was on level ground for the most part.
This time I was digging out my shooting pit that is on a steep downhill grade. I think as I was digging going down hill the rear shaft slipped forward enough that it came out of the rear spline, when I noticed I was spinning the rear tires only trying to get back out with a full bucket of heavy wet clay. That is when I engaged the 4wd lever to find out it no longer worked, when I was trying to back out with a heavy load. I just dumped the bucket and used it to push me back out and took it straight to my shop.
At any rate it makes sense to me now but I will keep an eye out on it now that I know. Also knowing how hard it will be to find parts, I will no longer use it like a bulldozer.
I just wanted to thank everyone here once again for the help and advice, hopefully my experience will help someone else in the future as I really got lucky this time it appears.
I’m not sure which order the pics will show but hopefully they will be self explanatory. I removed the two bolts holding the carrier bearing from the bottom of the case and slipped it forward so I could remove the rear shaft. The rusty looking shaft will show the partially broken snap ring slipped back on the driveline. That is what was keeping it from locking into 4wd I THINK.
Sorry the pics are kind of backwards.Top pic is where the rear shaft goes into the transfer case.
Next pic is the front driveline going into the carrier bearing.
Next is the front of the rear driveline laying on the floor, that shows the snap ring that has slipped back.
Next is the carrier bearing slipped forward on the front driveline so I could remove the rear driveline. Last pic is before I took it apart.
Ok I got it apart far enough to figure out whats going on and it is completly different then what my book shows. The center piece is in fact a carrier bearing that also has a splined piece in the center that connects the front AND rear drive shaft, otherwise there are two seperate shafts instead of one single one my book shows and neither is broke.
What appears to have happened is a snap ting broke and let the rear part of the shaft not go into the spline properly to where it would lock into place. It doesn’t quite make sense to me thats all it is but it is a place to start. For some reason I cant post any pics from my computer to show what I am talking about but I took several. I clicked on the little tree icon, and I thought it used to let me upload from my pictures but it seems different as its asking me to put in an HTML code? I have no clue how to do that so I will see if I can figure it out.
In the meantime I will see if I can find a new snap ring and put it back together and report back wether that was the only problem or not. I find it hard to beleive I can be that lucky but I have my fingers crossed.
Thanks again to all. BobEDIT , I found the article on uploading pics I will try it again.
Thanks again to all of you guys for the info and advice.
Yes Troy I allready checked that out and it is why I beleive the shaft itself is broke.
Thanks Rich I think that may the direction I will take if it is in fact broke, there is a local company called “Power drive” that repair and make drivelines of all types. I will get some detailed pics today and probably go ahead and pull it apart, but I think Larry is correct that it is a carrier bearing of sort. This is a link to a Mahindra setup that is very similiar to what my book shows which also doesn't list a carrier bearing. http://www.mikestractors.com/p….._Axle/2372
Tinbender yes I have been emailing anyone that has been listed as dealers, or even had a YTO tractor for sale for over a year now, several times a month and have never gotten one reply. The YTO USA number I actually got a real person to talk to a couple of months ago but was told to call back, after that they never answered the phone again.
Thanks for the info and email contact Larry, I will sure save that for future needs too. I have found several places in China to reply to but none that I felt were the correct ones, I would still be very nervous about ordering something from there because I have never done it before and heard many horror stories from others about doing so.
I am sure you are correct on the carrier bearing because it does have a couple of grease zerts on it as well. I will get some pics and update this afternoon, I just wanted to thank everyone again . Bob
I thought I would update this. Still haven't been able to contact anyone about YTO's in the states that have ever “Claimed” to be a dealer or suplier of parts. Both West coast YTO, and YTO USA are no longer in buisiness according to all of the phone #'s I have called from both of there websites.
At any rate, I slipped the two snap rings off of the driveshaft covers and everything seems to be intact and working properly on both ends with the exeption of possibly the middle where there is another connector box. I havent taken it apart yet because it is not even shown in my parts catalog, but depending on which direction I slip the shaft ends it appears there are either two seperate shafts that connect in the middle or the driveshaft itself is snapped into within that connection.
The parts manual only shows a one piece drive shaft with the part # SZ 304.42.108 and a connecter on each end so according to that I think I need a new drive shaft. That brings me again to the fact I am more then likely screwed since I cant find anyone to purchase one from. Its getting really frustrating much like the Japanese Iseki tractor I have that also appears to be the only one ever made.
If there are any Dealers, or any other YTO owners that could steer me in the right direction of finding parts I sure would appreciate it. Thanks again Bob
Thanks Troy and Larry , its good to know there are other YTO owners . I just wished they were more available online to share their experiences. You two are the only ones I have ever found that own one in the couple of years I have been searching.
Yes Larry I have tried multiple times to contact YTO USA and West coast YTO through Email and phone with never an answer or reply, I tryed again at both places yesterday again with the same results.
I only have the parts and maintenance manuals for my tractor, and they both cover multiple models that are quite different from mine so the books are of very little help as well. That is IF you can make any sense out of poorly translated info from Chinese to english which I haven't been able to at all.
At any rate I checked it over and there is nothing obvious or exposed enough for me to tell what is taking place, the transfer box which mounts below the gearbox with the lever on it seems intact and the lever appears to work as it allways has but withought tearing into it I have no idea if everything inside is working properly. I would have to guess that if I were to try to remove any part of that box I would loose all of the fluids contained in the gearboxes as I dont see how it can be seperate from the main gearbox. Without a service type manual its only a guessing game though.
Mine dont appear to be the same as the Farm pro or Jinmas according to the advice I have heard others offer when it comes to the balls that everyone keeps talking about that fall out of place. Without pics its hard for me to tell but according to my books there is nothing that looks like that in the diagrams. If anyone has any advice on where to go next it sure would be appreciated, I dont mind tearing into it if I just new a little bit more of what I might run into or how to go about it. As always thanks in advance for any advice. Bob
I just uploaded 4 pics but cant seem to get them to post . At any rate I have been using the tractor as it is and everthing on it works as normal and I still cant figure out what that sensor is . I know the pics would help but I am not having any luck with those either. Any ideas , Thanks . Bob
Yes it does Rich , I think that maybe what the other one that goes into the side of the housing controls . I cant find anything that doesn't work as normal . But thanks for the idea I was kinda rattle brainned when it happened I will go out and check everything again to make sure. Bob
Thanks again Bob . Thats why I thought it would be much simpler and less of a waste to just replace the plunger pump instead of the whole assembly , it looks like its just a matter of unscrewing and reinstalling with some thread sealer .
The plunger is on the left ( front of engine ) of the large hex nut , so I just need to call Tommy and get the right one . I am curious to take my old one apart to see why its seized up though because I only used it the one time .
I still have yet to find any YTO dealers in the states though that will answer any email requests for parts . Even if I could call them I have a problem giving out credit card info over the phone when they have a website that has a parts email address for ordering. Sure seems like a heck of a way to do buisness .
