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Straight is no problem. When I turn left or right while moving the wheel straighten out if I don’t keep constant turning of the steering wheel
Thanks
Joe
It sounds like you are on the right track.
Just to be clear, the wheels going straight happens while driving, right?
One test for the cylinder on the axle is to remove the hoses and plug off the ends, making sure to keep as much oil in the cylinder as possible. Then jack both wheels off of the ground and see if you can make the wheels turn from side to side using hand pressure on the tires. If they easily turn it might indicate an internal leak in the cylinder.
If they turn but spring back, it is probably just air in the cylinder.
Best of luck and let us know what you find.
Thank you
Whenever I asked this question in the past everybody just says use hydraulic oil but they didn’t pinpoint the specific locations. I always thought that gear oil should be used in the front hubs and in the front Differential.
Only load I put on the tractor is picking up pallets with FEL or running a 8 foot wide brush hog for 20 or so hours per year.
So this is where I am now.
-Front Axle–3 gallons 80w90 gear oil
-Front Hubs–1 gallon 80w90 gear oil
-Power Steering–.66 gallons AW46 Hydraulic Oil
-Rear Gear / Transmission (same fill location)–15 gallons Universal Hydraulic Oil
-3pt / FEL—-5.5+ gallons AW46 Hydraulic OilHow does this look now???
This Foton 704 uses over 25 gallons of fluid total plus 2.5 gallons of 15w40 engine oil. About $350.00 per fluid change plus filters.
Thank you
Joe
In case someone else has a similar issue it turned out to be the alternator idiot light in the dash and when I replaced the gauge the problem went away and the battery began charging again.
I had a very similar problem on my Foron 704 I thought it was a regulator I thought it was wiring I thought it was a fuse and it turned out to be the gauge on the dash panel as the alternator idiot light lightbulb is what you use to complete the circuit for charging the tractors battery. you may find some information In one of my old posts that talks about this. Or do a search on the web on charging system troubleshooting. Hope this helps
OK only 9 months later, I finally got this thing back to my shop to work on it.
After washing the engine, the tach worked for a while. Concluded the water completed a connection in a broken wire.
Anyway, it was a BEEEEEECH to remove this thing there is just no room (I have a enclosed cab model). Got it out and found a broken wire at the sensor. Ordered new sensor and installed and all seems to work during my test starts.
Thanks for the assistance.
Joe
Thank you Bob
Where exactly would I be looking.
The only access to he flywheel that I can think of would be where the starter mounts and where one would do the clutch adjustment. Is there a removable inspection panel? I just peaked under there and did not see anything that jumped out at me.
So I took a peak behind the dash had did notice an electrical connection on top of the bell housing. Would this be the sensor? See photo
It’s actually 5 minutes that it stops working. I’ll give that a look next time I’m out at my farm in a few weeks or so.
Thanks
Joe
Thank to all for the help. I finally got back to my farm where the temp is over 32 degrees today so I reinstalled the starter hooked everything up and nothing. Cleaned all the contacts have over 12v at the battery. So I disconnect the battery cable from the starter and run some jumper cables between the positive of the battery and the battery lug on the solenoid and what do you know lights come on and I’m able to crank. Install a new $10 2 gauge battery cable on the tractor and it fired right up.
See my new post about two other electrical gauge issues 🙁
Thanks again for your time.
Joe
Ok update #2
Bench test of starter.
Grounded starter to meg terminal on battery.
Applied 12v to main lug
Ran small wire from small terminal as shown in the photo to 12v. Result. Bendix ejected but motor did not spin.
Thoughts
Thank you. What terminals would I jump. Depending on whether I’ll try to take a picture of the actual starter maybe you can direct me to which terminals I should try jumping Thank you so much Joe
Sorry I’m late, here’s the pic. But I missed what Larry replied to, mine never lost everything else.
Ok finally have an update on my testing
I tried jumping the two large lugs While the starter was on the tractor and got nothing
I removed the starter from the tractor and grounded the starter to a 12v battery and ran 12V from the battery to one of the lugs and then jumped the lugs with a pair pliers and the motor spun however the Bendix did not object but the motor Spun like a bat out of hell. I did NOT hear or feel any clicks from the solinoid. This test bypassed the solinoid completely. I will not try to wire it up on he bench using the solinoid.
