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Well that's probably a question only you can answer. What are you going to do with it? It's a dozer but it's not a D6!
Does it have a shuttle clutch? They are particularly nice IMO but you can do without. The price sounds like a deal.
ah ha! ok.. I did some reading. It would seem that it's an either / or situation. Since I've had so many things wrong with this dozer i'm putting that one on the list of things to check before they take it back on Sunday.
@Rich: you also answered my next question… what's with the wire going to the fuel line.
…and is anyone here involved in the TY395 engine wiki I just found @
Thanks for the info. Preheater? How does it work? Or more to the point, how do I know if it's NOT working?
Any idea where on a TY395 the glow plugs would normally be?
Wait… suffering from post “send” trauma… I bet that isn't fuel in that line but vacuum. Or something like that. Other end goes to the fuel tank.
You'll need an oscilloscope to test the sender. Most people who are not super cool don't have one handy
. I believe SOP for tachometer troubleshooting is first to adjust the sender as mentioned above. Failing that, then it's a process of elimination. Replace each piece one by one until it works. since dozers see a LOT of vibration you might check the connections. Does the light work inside the tach? If not, perhaps the first wire to check should be power.
Personally, I sent an email to Yuchai at the link shown above and they responded within less than 24 hours. Send them your engine number and date and they will send you a pdf manual for your dozer.
I appreciate the effort Bob. The tractor is still going back to Keno to see what they can do with it but in the mean time, I'm like you – just can't let it lie.
The thought I have about increasing the throw of the linkages is that I will be decreasing the mechanical advantage by the same ratio. If we go from 1.5″ now to let's say 4.5″ that's a 3x reduction in leverage! I'm already stomping on the brakes and it won't stop!
Here is another nagging thought though: I ultimately found two things:
1) The brakes were nearly full-on all the time
2) The clutches were releasing only a little late but were fully released I'm sure when I pushed the pedal all the way down.
Doesn't this mean those tracks should have been stopping on a dime every single time? Something still doesn't add up for me.
I was able to make some detailed measurements this last weekend. I'm now convinced that the detail shown in post 61 of this thread is most certainly NOT correct (on my dozer at least.) The total travel of the connecting rods (both are the same) is 1.5″. That is from top of pedal stroke to bottom. There are no adjustments I can see to change that. The slot in the sequence fork is almost 2 inches long.
Even worse. I measured that the brake arm needs to travel about 2″ +/- 1/4″ before the brake begins to grab. I did this by hand so it's when I feel the arm get tight. This distance combined with the two inch slot means the control rod would have to travel almost 4″!
not even close.So, IMHO, the brake arm must be “pre-loaded” about an inch of it's travel when the pedal is at rest. I think this is ok since the brakes won't be “on” yet – it's just taking up the slack in the mechanism.
The other thought nagging me is this “two inches” of travel for the brake arm might not be normal. I wonder if the brake bands that are on this machine are the wrong length.
