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Thanks. Using left over 6×6 cutoffs from the shed im building for this beast. Oh and I learned the big round cross piece is the swing shaft. I’m full of learning today.
ok… the best I can figure for blocking. The front swing arm equalizer seems obvious. As near as I can tell the weight of the rear of the tractor is on that big round cross piece but I don't want the block on something round. The next best thing seems to be those brackets where the final drive casing is bolted. I would like to be able to get to the brake band adjusting bolt so I need to avoid that area. All sound good? I jacked it up and saw the tracks sagging by an amazing amount. Looks like the blocks will have to be at least 14″ tall!
Personally I would rather know the “proper” terms. A picture with arrows is what we use at work when translating our work instructions to Chinese / Japanese / Thai
And Bob….HUGE thank you for all the help you've given me. HUGE
No. Just trying to get the tracks off the ground to adjust the clutches ok to jack it up from the bracket where the sway chains attach?
And I have no idea what a swing frame equalizer is but I will figure something.
Here is some pics:
I've since removed the extra bits
I have a new theory however. These brakes appear to be in good condition. The linings are not slipped. But what I can see is they are tight as all heck. Is it possible two things are happening: one – the clutches are releasing late and two- the brakes are fading because they are heating? It doesn't seem likely in such a short distance. I've only driven the dozer for about two minutes at a time but if they were wound completely tight the whole time? Just a thought.
The extra bits in there are certainly not helping. They were not wedged in there so I don't think they were binding the band to the hub. If the bands were not wound so tight perhaps that would have happened. The funny thing is the bracket that was down inside the left brake box is the missing bracket he had to fab for the clutch return spring.
The other thing of note is that things are pretty dry in there. No oil or water that I can see.
So to summarize:
1) Both pedals pushed in half way at the same time both tracks stop every time.
2) On both sides the clutch arm and brake arm are actuating simultaneously.
3) The pins for the brake arm are fully aft in their slots when the pedal is at rest.
4) the left pedal comes to a dead stop about the right distance from the bulk head but I'm not sure what is stopping it. It sounds like one of the pivots is hitting inside the tower. The right pedal hits the bulkhead.
5) The video shows me bottoming out the pedal every time. Sometimes the track stops nicely (I can even feel a bit of a jerk) and sometimes it just keeps rolling on like I did nothing other than release the clutch.
6) Most of the time I can't turn shorter than the width of my street..I'd say about 30 feet.
7) It seems to work better in 1st gear low box but even that is inconsistent.
so those few times when I pressed the pedal to the floor and the track just kept on going is normal? hmmm guess I gotta rethink things a bit. The turning radius on this thing is huge if that's the case. My ram quad cab turns shorter!
