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Thanks for the fast reply bob! Should I be turning these bolts with my bare hands or wrenches? I went out and tried your method but this time I just used my bare hands. I could “feel” things a bit better but still it seems quite vague where to stop turning the bolt. two of them had somewhat dirty threads and would get stuck. A little turn with the wrench and I could turn them by hand another 3/4 turn.
Anyway, I locked them down in some kind of position that is farther in than original. Seems like a good thing. I really wish I could see inside that box and see what the heck I'm doing. I'm a feeler gauge and micrometer kinda guy.
What is your opinion on both clutch and brake arms moving at the same time? Is that how it should work?
Ok…finally found some time to get to this. Bunch of questions and comments.
First. There is no earthly way to get that deck plate off of there without removing the seat. Second. The seat is trapped by all those hoses. However after quite a bit of cussing it saw it my way. Needless to say if I ever do this adjustment again, I'm finding a way to do it from underneath.
I decided to look at how the mechanism is working now for comparison purposes. My first observation was that as I pushed the pedal both the clutch arm and the brake arm moved at the same time.
Is that right? Doesn't seem right to me.I'm stuck on step one however. I carefully marked where the “adjustment bolts” are now and then loosened the retaining nut and screwed them in. The results were odd.
Top bolt: I was expecting it to come to a sudden stop. It didn't. It just gradually got harder to turn. I figured a herculean effort is wrong and I should be feeling for “snug”. I stopped where I was happy. It took at least four full turns from where it was to where it stopped. Hmmm ok well maybe the mechanic had a different opinion of “snug”. No worries…press on. I backed it out one full turn just like the good book says and locked it down. On to the one at the bottom.
Bottom bolt: Again I marked where it was to start and started to turn it in. I turned…and turned…and turned…lost count…turned more…hmmm not getting any harder….turn..turn turn…. bottoms out on the locking nut before it got “snug”.
Ok, so what do I do now?
I'm completely up to my neck in “lost”. Any help you guys can give will be appreciated.
Here is a pic of the interference I'm talking about:
There is enough slop that I can push the pedal to the left enough to pass by but that isn't going to work long term.
I have never understood why this “rule” isn't engraved right on each and every dipstick on the planet. I ask myself this question every time. Just yesterday if fact. Got a new air compressor (oil lubed). No where is it written if the dipstick should be all the way in or resting on top.
Well I had a fun lunch break today. Drove the dozer up and down my street.
The verdict is when I push both pedals part way the dozer stops every time. The street is pretty level so no coasting really. Ok, so that tells me the clutches are doing their thing.
Next I played with stomping on the brakes. All the way until the pedal stops every time. First thing I noted was the right pedal hits the hydraulic lines coming up from the floor. MUST fix that! If I push the pedal to the left a bit as I push down I can slide by for now.
Paying close attention to things I've come to the conclusion the brakes aren't so much intermittent as just plain weak. If I am really moving, high gear, they barely do anything at all. The other track sort of moves everything forward. If I slow down I get a bit more braking action but there the left is doing much more than the right. I even got a bit of a squeal from the right at one point.
So unless something is truly broken with these brand new brake bands, I'm going on the assumption they simply need to be tightened up. I'd like to avoid making changes to the clutch adjustment when I do this since that seems to be just right. About an inch of free play then good clutch feel. So here is my plan:
1) adjust the adjustment bolts per the manual. Top one first per Bob's suggestion. Screw in until they stop; back off a full turn; tighten nut. Rinse repeat four times total. (once per bolt)
2) adjust the control rod at the brake-band end to get the right free play or throw or whatever. Not super clear on this adjustment. Basically I'm trying to avoid the brakes coming on before the clutch is released AND trying to get it to bottom out before I have less than 30mm of clearance between pedal and bulkhead. I envision something like this:
while trying to avoid this:
p.s. I miss my little hammering smiley that was one of my favorites. Tried to get clever but it doesn't look the same on the forum as when I'm editing.
sighForgot to update this thread. I hate threads that don't finish.
I have to say Yuchai surprised me. They are an extremely responsive company. I received return emails within 24 hours each time and in some cases twice in one day!
I sent my engine serial number and they responded:
Because your machine was too old, we can’t find more information of it. Does the machine with manul control or hydraulic control?
So I replied that indeed I do have hydraulic control and they sent essentially the same manual that Bob sent me. Minor formatting changes but the text is the same. It's not an awful manual but does leave out some important details. Which brings me to my next thread: Steering clutch / brake adjustment.
I have intermittent brakes. After talking with the mechanic at Keno, I'm going to try my hand at my first service! Any tips, help, warnings from the dozer owners here would GREATLY be appreciated.
I will start a new thread.I see you've got a couple of nice halogen light stands but you chose to use a step ladder with clamp-on incandescents… weather hasn't turned cool enough yet for those halogens?
Looks like it's really coming along nicely. Well lit! How thick are those R-Tech foam panels?
my vote would be EMT. Protects better when things don't go as planned in the shed. The actual conduit is cheap as dirt. They get ya on the connectors.
