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It's been a very long time but I thought I would close this thread with the final results.
After getting the dozer back from the mechanic for the second time (and being promised they checked it and it works great) I drove it a little bit and found the new steering clutches, brake drum, and brake bands were not working at all.
Same problem as before, the clutches were not releasing correctly and the brakes wouldn't harm a fly.
After being distracted by family life for a year or so I finally got out there and after a few deep breaths started in on it all over again. This time with success! I found some basic things wrong like the brake adjustment bolts at the back of the tractor were not long enough to put the bands in the right position. I also pulled out the brake control rods and added about two inches of threads.
After spending many hours of making small adjustments to the clutches and brakes I have what I would call a working dozer!
Since then I've fixed many of the other little things that the “mechanic” did wrong – like attaching the blade tilt lines backwards
and other such nuisances .I really want to thank the people here for being patient with me and teaching me so much. I would have given up a long time ago had it not been for you guys and this site.
I mixed feelings about the shop I bought this dozer from. On one hand the owner really did try to make it right. He spent a lot of money getting new clutches, drums, and brakes as well as the time and effort. So good feelings there. On the other hand they did so many inexcusable things. I mean if you look back in this thread: there was loose bolts down in the brake drum area (and my loose I mean just tossed into the compartment), completely non-functional steering, strainers where hydraulic filters should have been, sand and gravel in the hydraulic tanks, a piece of linoleum flooring as a gasket, a dipstick that is rubbing against a gear, I could go on… The worst comment from the shop owner was, “you get what you pay for..”
So at this point I finally have a working dozer! It seems like a good strong machine once I ironed out all the kinks. Thanks again everyone. Happy tractoring!
Although it is a significant spring, when I removed it the pedal did not get measurably easier to push. I'm afraid it's something else. And since the problem is on both pedals it has to be something systematic with how the clutches were installed.
Either that or these clutches are just built for bigger operators.
and why is the text cut off on the right hand side of these posts? I can't seem to make it fit?
That's great stuff Bob! Are you manually imputing corrections or is this whole-hog automatic?
It is a possibility. I will check today. Last time I looked though the springs looked pretty wimpy.
Thanks for the tip.
Has it really been that long? Gosh how time flies! No I haven't sold the dozer but life has also gotten in the way of making much progress.
Steve – Bob does ask a crucial question…. Do you have the pendulum pedals like mine? I think there is a good reason they moved away from that style and you and I are experiencing it.
For those that are interested…. The last rebuild improved things quite a bit but they still are not perfect. The clutches were replaced with factory new parts (drums replaced at the same time.) When I got the dozer back it still didn't turn quite to my satisfaction but it was much closer. I added about two or three inches of threads to one of the linkages and that let me dial in the clutch. Life got in the way and I have yet to do the other side but I believe it will fix that side as well.
One significant drawback to the new clutches… I have to just about stand on the pedal to get it to release. I'm by far the only one in my family that can drive the dozer now.
You're gonna need 220VAC for those lights!!! And LED or not, you won't need a space heater for your back yard anymore. Street lights aren't even close to that wattage. My guess, (if they really are 3000W) these are used for stadium lighting.
I think bob is probably “spot” on (pun intended). More likely the 3000 number they quoted is the color temperature.
I just realized (don't know why I didn't look before) that it has the same suction screen filter on the return line of the shuttle clutch. I assume that there should be a regular 10micron filter there too. But here is my question: How do you remove that filter without taking a bath in oil. As soon as I start to loosen the filter oil starts pouring out. And I mean pouring fast. The accumulator is right next to this filter. Is the oil under pressure somehow? With the engine off I cycled the shuttle shift back and forth thinking it would relieve pressure but it didn't seem to make a difference. :shrug:
