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Funny how we all think alike.
I was concerned about being level over the 21' too. Turns out that was the easy part. I used a laser level by the way. I put two pieces of tape leaving a small gap on a hand tamper. You just pound pound pound until the laser hits between the tape. Easy peasy. Really wish I had one of those spinning lasers though. Mine you have to use a remote to rotate it a little at a time. Oh well, first world problems…But that isn't the problem! Problem is those pressure treated 6×6 timbers. Most pressure treated lumber is green and wet. I think these timbers had leaves on them just before I bought them. I laid them dead level but as they dried they started to twist!
No amount of leveling is going to fix that. This caused the top of the wall that is 26″ away to be out of plumb by more than an 1″! That's where all the work was. I felt more like a cabinet maker than a carpenter but all is well now.Agreed about the 3-4-5 triangle thing Bob. I used 9-12-15 though. For a 21' x 10' building THAT is spot on! But with all the twisting of the timbers and such the top of the wall still isn't dead straight. Tolerance stack up is a b!7ch. My plan is to snap two very square chalk lines on top of the wall and build to that.
Thanks for the compliment BG. I couldn't agree more – building it will be more fun than using it. 21' x 10' is barely enough room to squeeze by the dozer once it's in there. Mostly this is storage rather than a shop.
Thanks Bob. Yep 2×6 studs. But before you think I've gone overboard the real reason is to give me room for construction tolerance. I need to land the off-the-shelf Arrow shed on top of that wall. I just owned up to the fact my pony wall won't be straight or square and the Arrow shed likely won't be either. 5.5″ gives a whole lot more room for error over 3.5″
I should mention the design constraint was it had to be constructed where I live in the city and transported to the site with minimal work to be done at the site. So I designed it to be modular and bolted together once I get there. All the sheeting was applied at home.
It's strange and a little disturbing that I've never had my AV software say a peep about this site. Both at home and at work (different operating systems, different browsers and different AV software). I'm not at all saying it's not there but quite the opposite. It seems to be getting through unnoticed! What is the effect of this virus?
…red indicator light on it which shows field current going to the alternator which is illuminated when the key switch is on
The red indicator light on the dash mimics the indicator light on the voltage regulator
Ohhhh so THAT'S what the indicator light indicates! Mine never indicated anything.
Eagerly awaiting “Yoda's” mod.
I think you just hit on the answer for what to call the level after 500 posts.
Yes I read it and it is exactly what I am thinking as well. In my case, I could take the cover plate off the brake box and run the tractor. The pendulum pedals don't have that extra pivot arm that you have so the cover is just a cover. I could see the brake band is held close to the hub at the two points where the adjustment bolts are, however on the ends where the bands connect to the pivot / actuating arm there is more than a half inch of clearance! In my case, you can move the brake control arm quite a bit (>1″) before the bands touch the hub at all.
In my opinion that slack is enough for the “sequencing” to happen. This means the slot in the sequencing link is useless but the slop will provide enough play to “sequence” things…. I think…
Just before Eric came to take the dozer back I was able to get the right side break to work at about 90% using this idea of “pre loading” that slop. I didn't have enough time to play with it as much as I would have liked. I wanted to paint some dykum on the hub to see if I could tell when the bands started to touch the hub.
Bob, I'm quite curious. Is there any way for you to easily look and see how much your brake control arm moves when you apply full pedal? If it involves removing the deck plate, never mind. If you can see it from above though, I would be very interested to hear your estimate.
I ask, because on mine the arm moves quite a bit before the bands make contact with the hub. There is a lot of slack in the mechanism consisting of the brake band and the rocker arm it is attached to.
I have pendulum pedals and not the type you have so take this advice with a grain of salt.
If you shortened both rods (via their respective adjustments) the same amount wouldn't that keep the sequence the same while moving the action higher in the pedal stroke? Thereby increasing the gap when the pedal is fully depressed.
