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Hello Lawrence
Well, I presume yours is year 2002. Mine is 2007, but I believe that was (another) period of redesign for Jinma, and your model may be significantly different.
On mine, there is no “drain” in the conventional sense. Mine has piping to provide hydraulic pressure to the rear of the tractor. If you have that, then what I have done is to open the right-hand side pipe and simply run the tractor for a bit and pump the dirty oil out that pipe.
If you don’t have the rear hydraulics you could just open the pump suction line at the filter (next to the engine, not the screen that was sometimes inside the reservoir) and let gravity drain out the old oil.
But you talk about water in the oil… that’s a concern. Do you understand how the water got into the oil? And can you stop it? You should be checking your oil level fairly regularly (monthly?), and the water should have shown up then. If there is water in your oil I would take the time to flush the entire system, including FEL up/down several times. A hydraulic pump is not cheap. And be sure to use the correct oil; not the “Universal fluid” used by some, but real Hydraulic oil. Buy a couple of gallons, it is cheap compared to other problems.
Good luck,
MikeHello David, yes re diodes, I was trying to do the “easy” stuff first, but screwed it up. Trying to “unscrew” it before I do what you suggest. All I am asking is for someone to look at their tractor and tell me the order of the wires going into the regulator. I agree with Piper, one can’t trust the wiring colors, but…
If I knew of another Jinma in the neighborhood I’d drive over and look for myself, but they seem to be becoming ever-more scarce.I’m sure everything you say is true, but I’m just trying to put things back as they were before I screwed them up. But I’ll keep your info just in case.
Thanks,
MikeI have no personal experience with foam-in-place insulation, but a contractor friend of mine has spent a bundle to get into the business, so he's convinced it is a good thing.
The only advice I might give is to check on the fire resistance. A house down the road, 3 year old million dollar home had a major fire and the word on the street is that the fire dept had great trouble in putting out the fire b/c the (closed cell) insulation kept on burning.
I spent extra $$$ to insulate my garage to house standards, and I'm glad I did. Oil is not likely to go down in price… except in ND where you just go out to the well and get a pail full, right? ***Laugh***
Prairie Dog
Sorry guys, life apparently got in the way of posting an update. First grandchild is due any day now… I don't recall this much activity when we had our own.
As for the tractor:
All I have done is to change oil to Shell Rotella, new filter, and I'm told it now runs just fine, but the pressure is on the low side. I have taken a sample, and expect to get the results soon.
I have come to the conclusion that David is right… the problem is likely somewhere in the oil filter housing. The pressure changes are reported to be abrupt rather than gradual. Relief valve malfunction? Economy oil foaming in exceptionally hot weather? Still a mystery.
Since it seems to be working OK, and we are nearing the end of the season I think I will wait and do any further work in my shop instead of on my back in the dirt. That will also give me an opportunity to drop the pan and inspect a bearing or two.
mike
Thanks guys… good suggestions. Since I was not the operator, I have no idea what the coolant temp was at the time, but it was a hot day and he was haying. I know the rad was clean in the spring, and the coolant was new and up to level, but it sure bears checking. Currently I'm waiting for the oil analysis kit to arrive and there has not been a recurrence.
I had disassembled the oil filter relief valve to make sure it wasn't stuck, but never thought of a housing crack etc. As you said, David, “stranger things have happened”.
Mike
Thanks, Guys. I had not thought of an oil analysis, any I have found here have been a lot more than $25… usually over a hundred. Maybe I just haven't looked hard enough. The oil seems very normal.
Also never thought of foaming. It was very hot both days, and I expect it was being operated at full rpm, (I wasn't in the seat). The oil is Canadian Tire, so its quality is suspect… up there with Walmart house brand. But it is the same oil I have used for over 5 years without a problem, although I do not work my engine at high rpm for long in high temperature conditions. I did add oil to about half a litre over the full mark, and the problem has not repeated, but then again the weather has cooled down.
I think I'll change the oil to a better quality of oil, and see how it goes. I'll save a sample, and do the poor man's analysis (cut the filter in half). But, like you, I doubt it will fix it. It will, however, rule out that possibility. If that doesn't work, then off with the pan, as David suggests.
It sure is bothersome to not know!
Mike
Guess I should have said it at the outset…. that was the first thing I did and the results were identical.
Mike
Streetrod, let's go back to your original problem before you waste more money.
First, you should not have interchanged the hoses. As Bob Rooks said, the reason you had the first problem was probably due to dirt or some other problem in the relief valve. It is possible to disassemble the inlet valving and inspect & clean, althugh you really do have to keep very close track of what goes where (take lots of photos). And if you are removing any adjustment screw (like, one that adjusts the pressure setting) make sure you count the number of turns as you disassemble it and make sure you put it back in its original postion.
When you interchanged the hoses, I believe you eliminated the relief valve from the circuit, thereby dead-heading the pump and causing the damage.
If you don't reconnect the pump in its proper (original) configuration you will just destroy another pump.
Prairie Dog
