Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Things are moving along on the truck project: The truck is now operational and even inspected and registered as a dump truck, all nice and legal.
The flatbed raises to 52°, an ideal angle for dumping. It is powered by a 12VDC powerpak and a 3-1/2″ x 24″ hydraulic cylinder that extends to 54″ overall.
There's a small fabricated aluminum cabinet under the bed that holds a 2KW power inverter for on-site power and the 20' remote control for he powerpak. Later, I'll add a pair of remotes so I can use the powerpak to run a hydraulic bender – or maybe even a jack for fixing flats.
I still have plenty left to complete on this project. I need to install the lift blocks and new rear shocks, skin the sideboards and paint them, make a tailgate, make a receiver strip for loading ramps, mount the winch, make and install an under-bed toolbox on the passenger side and, worst of all, fix up and paint the cab. My wife thinks it should be gray with hot rod flames. Hmmmm. Gray is good; the flames I'm not so sure about.
Of course, with my fertile imagination I can think up a lot of other mods I should consider, too. Like a removable stock rack for carrying long bar stock, a removable loading boom and other goodies. First though, I need to do some paying work to fund all this nonsense!
In the photo, the others look like cup seals to me, but I could b e wrong. Still, most of these valve parts are kind of standard and a hydraulic shop should have them. If not, you can probably find them at McMaster-Carr or MSC Industrial Supply online. You just need to get accurate measurements fom the old ones and they'll be able to come up with replacement parts. I'd start by checking with the Jinma dealers here, they may have some parts in stock.
Have you checked the fluid level in the injector pump? Most of these Chinese tractor injection pumps take eight to twelve ounces of engine oil to keep them lubed. They use either a dipstick or a witness plug to determine the correct level. This should be checked every time you change your oil. If the IP runs low on oil it could cause the governor to respond sluggishly.
I'm just guessing that is the cause – I could easily be wrong. Did you pull the injectors and look at the spray pattern on each of them? The fuel returning to the tank is from the lift pump, not the injector pump, I think. You should eliminate all easier, cheaper causes first, before you mess with the IP. Don't do heart surgery until you've ruled out indigestion, in other words,
Replacing the pump isn't difficult. Getting a new one installed so it is timed correctly can be a bigger challenge, but many have done it successfully. You have to carefully mark where the drive tang and gears are on the old one, don't remove anything you don't absolutely have to, and once it is re-installed you'll have to spill time it to be sure you have it right. You can look up spill timing on Google or wherever and see how it is done – not tricky, you just have to do it methodically and you'll get it right.
That said, if there is a qualified Jinma mechanic local to you I might use him. A mechanic who knows the tractor could probably do the R&R and timing in two hours or so, say $150-175 labor. If the local mechanic isn't familiar with your brand of tractor/engine, then you might as well do it yourself and learn the drill, as it will take him twice as long and he won't have the books or brand-specific experience. That's my take on it, at least. It's your call.
Before I did anything at all, I'd call Tommy at Affordable Tractor and get his input since he knows these machines inside and out and will be your parts source anyway.
Just guessing Mike, but it sounds like maybe your injector pump jumped out of time. I don't know if it uses a rectangular drive tang like a hydraulic pump or not, but if so, it may have gotten rounded off and slipped, screwing up the timing.
Yep – look t the ground under it to see where it is dripping down and then track it back to point of origin. It's a dirty job, but somebody's gotta do it.
I'd suggest you make yourself a dipstick of some sort that you can check the level with periodically to at least determine the rate of loss. Small losses are inevitable with any lubrication system and if it isn't serious I wouldn't sweat it much since there aren't any front brakes to get wet. It isn't a pressure lube situation and it may turn out that the loss is only due to thermal expansion – or not. A dipstick will tell you.
If it is foaming, it sounds like it is sucking in air somewhere. Check the intake side of your pump system thoroughly. Foamy hydraulic fluid is full of air, so it compresses and can't transfer power.
If that's really a 3hp gas engine, then I'd use 10W40 or straight 30wt. I'd guess that they specc'ed 15W-40 because they don't really understand that in our US nomenclature that s a diesel-rated oil and the gas equivalent is 10W-40. YOu don't need the soot suspension additive in a gas engine, but the detergent isn't a bad idea, so I'd use a gas engine oil. In my climate, where it never gets really cold, I generally use straight weight oils. Straight 30wt for all my small gas engines – until they get so sloppy they need heavier oil to keep from fouling plugs.
15W40 is a diesel-rated oil and has additives to keep the soot (carbon) in suspension. 10W30 is an automotive oil and is probably a detergent type with no soot suspension additive. If this is a diesel, definitely use the 15W40.
