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Some years back I bew the radiator on atruck I owned. When I checked on replacements the price scared me so I went to a radiator repair shop. For less than the cost of a new one, they pulled my old one apart and put in a new core with four rows instead of the original three. It worked much better and saved me money. I wonder if you could do the same with the radiator from the Jinma? I wonder if radiator repair shops still exist, as a matter of fact?
I got my bonded washers from Tommy at Affordable Tractor Sales in Texas. He knows which ones you need and should have them in stock. As I recall, the ones on my ZL-30 FEL are 18 mm, but I could be wrong.
My guess is that you have one or both curl cylinders bypassing. Simple to rebuild them and not expensive, either.
These tractors have the setup to permit a second hydraulic pump to be mounted above the PTO shaft where it is run directly off the engine. There is a square plate just above the PTO that is removed to expose a drive tang where you mount a regular CBN- type pump just like the one on the engine, and it is driven by a shaft from the engine that runs straight through the PTO housing. The only difference is that this pump must be re-configured to turn the opposite direction from the one on the engine. This pump is left connected to the tractor all the time and only the hoses are removed from it to disconnect the 'hoe from the tractor.
It is possible that the OP has this type of setup instead of a PTO pump.
That lever (really a pedal) is to either engage or disengage (die) the rear differential lock. When you have a rear wheel spinning and are stuck, you simply step down on the pedal and the differential will lock the rear wheels together so you can drive out. Once out, you press in the clutch and let the tractor stop moving and the diff lock will automatically disengage.
I narrowed buckets and welded on ears, both. Neither one is particularly difficult or treacherous. For narrowing a bucket the MIG unit would be my choice, but for welding on the bucket ears I might go to the stick welder for increased penetration, especially on a used bucket with rust and scale. A 6011 rod will cut through rust and paint and dirt like it wasn't there and give a good deep penetration. If you take the time to do a really proper weld prep with grinding and v-ing the weldments, then the MIG unit could handle it using .035″ wire and 80/20 argon/CO2 mix. If yoiu have it, Dual-Shield wire is great for that sort of work, too.
Doug,
Nope – the spring is NOT getting weaker after the engine comes up to heat. Just not possible from a metallurgical standpoint. That spring was hardened at or near 1200°F and tempered at no lower than 450°F so 165°F engine temp ain't a gonna affect it one scintilla. (love those obscure words!)
While I agree that Chinese tractor metallurgy is often a bit marginal, I've never found their springs to be soft. So you're not going to gain anything, except maybe braggin' rights, from replacing it with a spring from Solingen, Germany or Boeing Aircraft.
Any oil pressure over 15 psig at operating temp is sufficient on these tractors. Remember, way back when things like honkin' big steam engines were oiled with drip oilers that had maybe 0.001 psi gravity feed “pressure” and a bunch of those old dinosaurs are still running a hundred years later.
I'm not
, I'm just tenderizing the meat! 
One thing in favor of the OEM alternator over the Delco Si is that the OEM is a totally-enclosed, fan-cooled unit (TEFC), desirable in dusty, dirty conditions. The Delcos are open style and dirt and/or heavy dust will cause premature wear to them.
I believe Tommy now carries some OEM replacement alternators that are higher amperage than the the original 14-amp units, though not near the 72 amps that my Delco 12-Si puts out – but then I'm running several auxiliary lights for night work and a 1500W inverter, so I definitely need the higher output.
Why would you want more oil pressure than that? You do know that you can too much of a good thing when it comes to oil pressure, right? Pressures in excess of design limits can actually end up washing out your cam bearings and other things. 20 psig hot is plenty for one of these engines. Keep in mind it isn't revving to 6 grand like a Mazda – as long as the oil is getting around and through the filter, all is pretty much well. Get over 100 psig and you may well blow a filter up, too.
