RichWaugh

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  • in reply to: Main Seal #36007
    RichWaugh
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      Len,

      When I split mine I had never done any real work on a tractor before.  As I said, I got advice from Tommy and Ronald and then spent a day or so studying how to do it as safely as I could without benefit of a flat concrete surface to work on.  I made a rolling lowboy trolley cart with  a 6-ton bottle jack on it to lift/raise the rear half and used my engine hoist for the front, as I recall – may have just used a floor jack, though.  I put down a layer of plywood over the dirt and screwed a pair of wood strips to it to keep my rear dolly/trollley thing running straight back.

      I did all the work myself, though when I did the actual split I had a friend standing there watching, as much for his amusement as anything.  It took me a day to split it and a day to put it back together.  If I had to do it again, I could do it all inone day now that I know what to do.  It really isn't that difficult, just daunting tot he person who has never done it before.  So, if I can do it, you can do it.

      Take lots of pictures as you remove things, mark all wiring legibly, store all fasteners in boxes with labels as to where they came from.  Be sure you have the engine kill cable pulled and clamped to prevent any accidental starts if you rotate the engine.  Wear eye protection, be safe and don't run with scissors.  🙂

      in reply to: I ran out of fuel #36002
      RichWaugh
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        By the way, I hope you cleaned all that dirt and fung off the pump assembly before you unscrewed that shaft.  Otherwise you could have bits of that crud falling into the lift pump, not a good thing.

        in reply to: I ran out of fuel #36001
        RichWaugh
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          Yes, that's the priming pump, but the knob and shaft are not supposed to be unscrewed from the piston/seal assembly like that.  It should unlock and pop up with just a half  turn or so (as I recall) and then you pump it.  You need to screw it back into the piston and pull it up, I would think.  You may have to use a longer bolt with the same metric thread to get the piston up if it is down too far for the knob shaft to reach.

          in reply to: Main Seal #36000
          RichWaugh
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            Len,

             

            I had to split my 304 Jinma due to an oil leak.  It was not from the main bearing seal however, but from the gasket where the bellhousing connects to the engine block and sump.  The problem was that the bellhousing was not properly tightened down at the factory, causing it to shift and damage the gasket.  This problem has happened to others as well, so it may be what yo are experiencing, as I have not heard of any main bearing seal failures on these.  Anyway, I documented the whole thing here: 304 Oil Leak

            I did not replace my clutch as I only had about a hundred hours on the tractor at that time.  I did replace the rear main seal, just to be safe, but the old one looked perfect under a magnifying glass and I’m keeping it as a spare. 

            I got a lot of really good advice (and my parts) from Tommy at Affordable Tractor Sales and Ronald at RanchHand Supply,  so I heartily recommend them to others.  Between them, they got me through what was a daunting task for a newby tractor owner.

            in reply to: where to get parts for the little dozer #35988
            RichWaugh
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              This is a forum Chuck, not an email list.  If answers were sent to your email rather than posted here, only you would see them.  This way, lots of people can benefit from the answers.

              in reply to: PTO Hydraulic Pump #35973
              RichWaugh
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                If you're looking for one to run on the 6-spline PTO shaft, I'd recommend a Prince with sufficient capacity to power the 'hoe.  you don't say what tractor or hoe, so you'll have to go by the specs on the hoe for how much flow it needs at what pressure and get the appropriately-sized pump.

                in reply to: hydro levels #35963
                RichWaugh
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                  Everything in the down position.

                  in reply to: Replace or Repair Cracked Oil Pan Jinma 284 #35960
                  RichWaugh
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                    Lobster,

                    There's a thread I did on splitting my tractor (also a 304 Jinma) on Chinese Tractor World forums.  You can see it here.  There's a goodly number of photos that may be of some help; even though your 284 is a smaller tractor than mine the general process should be the same.

                    If you run into problems, Tommy at Affordable Tractor Sales is a great source of spot-on advice.

                    Good luck with it! 

                    in reply to: Not Really a Mod #35949
                    RichWaugh
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                      Okay, I see what you mean in the Ops and Maintenance thread.  I hate spammers.  I moderate over at ArtMetal.com, a forum for metal artists and too much of my time is taken up deleting spam and blocking spammers.  The only way to diminish it is to require all members to be vetted and approved and all posts to by members only.  I don't want to do that as it would discourage visitors.

                      The whole spam issue is a tough one.  There really aren't any easy answers, I'm afraid.

                      in reply to: Not Really a Mod #35947
                      RichWaugh
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                        Drat!  I musta missed the spam, too.  And I check this site at least twice a day.  I guess I shoulda been here next week, huh? neener

                      Viewing 10 posts - 131 through 140 (of 481 total)