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According to Tommy from Affordable Tractor, if the oil sump is the one-piece design (without the removable bottom plate you call the “motherboard”), the tractor has to be sllit to replace the sump.
I know that on my 304 Jinma there are three or four bolts that go through the flywheel cover and into the back edge of the oil sump, so there is no way to drop the sump without splitting the tractor and then removing the flywheel to access those bolts.
Start with it looser than it was and work up to where it opens (bypasses) at about 2200-2300 psig.
Sounds like your relief valve in the loader control isn't opening when it should. Pull it apart and clean it and reassemble and see if that helps.
I agree with what QSF and RD said. The oil leak is the least of the issues. The more significant issue is that of overall physical integrity of the tractor's structure. The oil sump is part of the structure and if it were to have a catastrophic failure (break in half), the load that it bore would be transferred to the bellhousing, very likely resulting in a failure at that point as well. Bad juju – would not only mean splitting the tractor but replacing the bellhousing, oil sump and maybe a destroyed engine if you don't notice the loss of oil pressure immediately and cook the engine.
Were it mine, I'd order a new oil sump and the requisite gaskets and replace the thing now. It is your choice, however. Hell, it might be much less serious than I'm imagining – I can''t see the crack so I can't say whether or not I'd take any chances on it. But the previous use of a non-OEM gasket would make me nervous that it was cracked due to uneven pressures when installed and that could bite you in the hindquarters later.
A couple of tips if you're going to split your tractor:
Have a digital camera handy before you start and photograph everything in place before you remove anything.
Label everything with tape and a pen.
Remember that the front axle toggles and block it on both sides so the front half doesn't tip sideways when it is loose from the rear.
Work on flat surface so it is easy to roll the rear half back when loose.
Use plenty of cribbing to support things – don't take chances.
Torque every bolt correctly and use new bolts where there is any question. Loctite blue is a good thing, too.
Get all new gaskets – don't reuse old ones no matter how good they might look.
Replace the throwout bearing and pilot bushing while you're in there and also the roll pin(s) in the clutch actuator fork. Use two nesting roll pins to be sure they won't shear off later.
I'm not familiar with the 200-series Jinmas, but on my 304 Jinma, you have to split the tractor in order to remove the oil sump. So it gets to be a big job. Not really all that technically difficult, but time consuming and requires care and patience. Also, the sump is part and parcel of what constitutes the “frame” of the machine, so I wouldn'’t try to repair it. I’d replace it with a new piece. Repairing castings is a dicey business and when they are subjected to stress there is a high likelihood of failure.
The 200-series may be different than the 300-series and the sump may drop right off – I don't know. If it does, then it isn'’t part of the structural members and could possibly be repaired by careful brazing. I wouldn’'t try to weld it as you’'ll have too much weld stress and it will likely crack again in short order. Brazing is much more forgiving and is the standard method for most casting repairs. Pre-heat and post-heat are still important – get it up to 400°F before you start and keep it at 400 for a half hour or an hour after brazing.
Either way, you need to start by trying to determine why the thing cracked in the first place. Was it installed in such a way that it was put under stress when the bolts were tightened? Was it a defective casting? Did you hit a rock with it? My sump is a heavy casting that would be unlikely to crack easily, so I'd want to figure out why so the next one didn't do the same thing.
Good luck with it!
Oh for cripes' sake! Don't get all tangled up in weird semantics. Push the lever forward for 540 rpm and yank it back for 1000. If you still aren't sure, put a tach on the output shaft and see what it says.
Well, I don't generally send people to other forums, but try your query here: http://tractorbynet.com/forums…..-tractors/ . A guy who goes by the name Greg G used to have one of those, I think, and may still have a manual for it or know where to get one.
