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First, have you added wheel weights and added ballast to the tires themselves? This can make a big difference in traction. Ag tires do give more traction but they tear hell out of the ground.
The dealers here carry different tires/rim combinations for your tractor, but it won't be cheap.
Have you checked the hydraulic fluid level in the sump?
The starting point is always to diagnose the issue. Check the fluid level, also check the level of oil in the engine sump – there are times when a hydraulic pump blows a seal and dumps the hydraulic fluid into the engine sump. Something to check.
If you have a FEL, and it is equipped with quick disconnect fittings on the hoses, disconnect the FEL hoses and then reconnect the hoses from the pump to each other. Also connect the hoses from the FEL to each other to prevent losing fluid. Absolutely do NOT run the tractor with the hoses disconnected or you will blowup the pump! Once the FEL is removed from the circuit and the fluid level is correct, try things out again and let us know what the story is then.
Always look for the least dramatic cause of a problem, don't start by replacing a $350 pump yo may not need.
Why replace the pump? It is sucking air on the intake side, which is probably happening in the sump, not at the pump itself.
Nope, they're all similar in some ways but also different in many ways. There are several different Chinese engine manufacturers and various tractor brands use different engines, even within the same brand. While a lot of Jinma tractors have been rebadged as various names, even they are not all identical, as different dealers may specify different options, engines, loaders, etc. The same holds true of Foton, Kama and other popular Chinese brands.
Whatever tractor you have, it is vitally important that you have the four manuals that should be supplied with it new – the Tractor Owner's Manual, the Tractor Parts Manual, the Engine Owner's Manual and the Engine Parts Manual. As these tractors evolve over time, yoiu need to be sure that you have the right manuals for your particular model, engine and year.
Diesel engines, even small ones found in Chinese tractors, are highly-stressed machinery and require correct torque loadings in fasteners if they're going to keep running for long. As David noted, each engine model has specific torque requirements and there is no “one size fits all” torque setting. The engineers who design the engine calculate what torque setting is appropriate and those figures are usually available in the Engine Owner's Manual for your specific engine.
There should be a plate on the engine itself that gives the model number and year of manufacture as well as the output power and other info. On my 304 Jinma that plate is riveted to the engine block on one side, but your own could be in a different location – you just have to look for it.
With the engine model number and date of manufacture you should be able to obtain the appropriate Engine Owner's Manual from one of the dealers who advertise on this site. Get it and follow the manufacturer's listed torque settings. In some cases, (like head bolts), the manual will specify a certain sequence that the bolts must be torqued in and it is important to follow the sequence and to torque the bolts in the proper procedure with regard to lubricants, washers, etc.
Note: Most Chinese tractors are sold with four manuals – the Tractor Operator's Manual, the Tractor Parts Manual, the Engine Owner's Manual and the Engine Parts Manual. You should really have all four in order to have the information necessary to successfully own, operate and service your tractor.
In instances where there is no torque setting specified for a particular fastener you can generally use the engineered torque rating for that specific size and type of fastener. There are charts available online where you plug in the size of bolt, thread pitch and bolt material (grade) and it will tell you the design torque rating. You should know that that rating is for that specific bolt only when mated with the matching nut. However, if the bolt is going into say, cast iron or soft aluminum, the actual torque setting will quite possibly be significantly different from the design torque. This is where a good reference book like Machinery's Manual can help you out. Or phone a friend. (grin)
I've never had to do that, David. I did have one instance of a ring slipping on a flywheel, but I did not weld it for fear of crazing the flywheel face.
What I did was to drill several holes through the flywheel/ring gear interface and perpendicular to the flywheel face. The holes are centered exactly on teh shear line were the ring and flywheel meet. I lightly chamfered the edges of theh holes and then cold-forged rivets in the holes. After all the rivets were set, I went back with a cup grinder and stoned of any excess, leaving the rivets perfectly flush to the flywheel. The rivets acted the same way a Woodruff key does in a shaft/sheave fit up.
The chamfering of the rivet holes makes a place for the rivet stock to expand into forming a very shallow “flat” head. That is plenty sufficient to keep them from coming out of the holes accidentally
Should the ring gear need to be removed later, It is easy enough to drill out the rivets since they are very low carbon steel and therefore soft..
Hal,
Last night, for some reason, I couldn't get CTOA to load up at all. Today it is fine. Just thought I'd let you know for your records.
Yep, a rosebud or a propane weed burner will do the job just fine. Even a charcoal grill will get it done if nothing else is available. Place the ring gear on a layer of firebrick and heat it as evenly as possible, being careful not to get it too hot – 400°F should be hot enough to force it over a cold center plate. I'd have the center plate in the freezer until I was ready to assemble.
If you go above 400°F you will alter the heat treating of the gear ring, possibly softening it to the point of causing early tooth wear. Your local welding supply house may sell TempilStiks, crayons that melt at specific temperatures for heat treating, if you don't have a pyrometer.
Also, check both the ring's and the center's edges for burrs and dress them off with a file before you start. A slight chamfer on the leading edge of the ring or the plate will make it easier to get it started, too – it only takes a few thousandths chamfer to do the job.
Today it seems pretty much okay to me, Hal. And I'm at the back of beyond as far as internet connections go.
