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Larry,
Depemding on the type of fuse you're dealimg with, it shouldn't be too difficult to make a “dummy” fuse that is nothing more than a device to plug into the fuse socket and extend the leads elsewhere. Might take a bit of clever craftsmanship to make the adaptors, but I'm sure you can do it. Then, instead of running the leads to a new fuse holder and fuses, install equal amperage circuit breakers instead of fuses.That way you just reach in a cabinet and push the circuit breaker and all is reset. I did this same thing with a fuse that used to blow all the time in my old truck. Since it was under the hood it was a pain to deal with so I “remoted” it to the cab and used a circuit breaker. Problem solved!
Yes, each fastener whether metric or “inchric” has a torque spec based on the class/grade of steel used and the thread pitch and diameter. There are charts available all over the internet, just Google “Torque Charts” and you'll find one that will tell you what you need to know.
The diode concept will work fine but you really might want to up it to a 2-watt diode, or even a 5-watt. Alternately, you could install a “kill” switch that opens that circuit and forget the diode.
Like I said, I made a n overhead gantry for 4x4s and used a chain hoist to dangle the thing. I had no level ground and no faith in those wimpy angle iron legs, or the flimsy sockets they go into. It only takes a few pieces of 4×4 to whip up simple gantry frame and then you're sure of the thing being secure.
The two legs supplied with the loader should just slip into sockets on the loader arms. They don't bold on. They end up located so close to the bucket they make me nervous, but if you're on solid, flat ground the thing will stand there on them. I use an overhead gantry to hang mine from a chain hoist as I have no good flat ground to use the supports.
There is a detent and ball in the shifter parts under the lid. I have heard of the retainer for the ball coming out of lace so the detent isn't positive enough. I'd check that first.
Makes sense to me. I only use a horn when I'm passing someone and frankly, I just can't see that happening with my tractor.
You are correct, but that small wire is actually too small to pass sufficient current to fully energize the solenoid coil. Thus the need for the additional relay. You could just run a heavier wire all the way, but then you'd still be limited by the current capacity of the starter switch and the clutch interlock switch, neither of which are heavy enough to carry the current drw of the solenoid coil.
Contact oneof the dealers who sponsor this site and they'll either have the manuals or know where you can get them. Chinese tractors typically come with four manuals: The User's Manual for the tractor, the Parts Manual for the tractor, User's Manual for the engine and Parts manual for the engine. You really need to get the full set in order to have the information you need to handle maintenance and minor (or even major) repairs. They tend to be written in “Chinglish” and can be a challenge to interpret a times, but the information is there and generally accurate, if expressed in terms you may find a bit confusing or even amusing at times.
The dealer/mechanic who called your tractor a POS is one I would expend some small effort to diminish his business. If they don't want to help you and take your money, fine. But disparaging your machine simply because it is Chinese or because you didn't buy from them is just childish and stupid business. In all likelihood, a significant portion of whatever “domestic” brand he is peddling is actually outsourced to China for manufacture. The time for that sort of petty jingoism is long past.
