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Glad to hear you got it set up right, Dean! You'll be happy with it, I'm sure. Thanks for letting us know you got it resolved; too many times, the original poster forgets to let us know the final outcome.
I need to do the same thing, Tin. I have the inverter and the pole saw, I just need to make a mount for the inverter on the tractor. I can't for the life of me find a place to mount it permanently out of the weather without it requiring about 30 feet of battery cable, so I'm thinking about just making a bracket of some sort up front by the battery where I can hang the inverter when I want to use it. I can mount some welder lead sockets under the battery tray and plug the inverter in to them. I'll get to it one of these days.
Yes – I use a Delco 12Si two-wire internally regulated alternator on my Jinma in order to get the higher output amperage to run additional lighting. It was almost a direct replacement, I only had to modify the mounting bracket slightly. The Jinma pulley swapped right onto it and all. I replace the stock fan belt with a link belt from Harbor Freight and it’s been great ever since.
The Delco alternator has a higher output than the Jinma ammeter could handle so I just mounted a voltmeter in the dash and let it go at that. I also disconnected the stock regulator. Very simply mod and well worth doing in my opinion.
Thanks Bob, I was apparently busy writing while you were posting that, so I called it the wrong thing again. At least I called it a *different* wrong thing, right?
zRoger,
Nope, you misunderstood Bob, I think. You will *never* get fuel to the injectors using the primer pump. The primer pump only gets fuel from the tank to the injector pump, no further. From the injector pump to the injectors is solely done by turning the engine over to activate the injection pump circuits. The hand pump might never get to hard pump like a boat primer does, even with the pressure compensating valve (or whatever its called) working properly. That valve is only intended to provide sufficient back pressure for the hand pump to function, as I understand it from what Bob posted.
Once you have fuel in the injector body with the hand pump, you'll need to pull the injectors loose and turn the engine over to pump fuel up to them. I'd suggest pulling the compression release and locking it open while you do this to save wear and tear on the battery and starter, but lots of guys do it without doing that and ju st let the thing start when it gets sufficient fuel up to one of the injectors. When you get a decent bit of fuel coming out around the injector, screw it back down. Once all the injectors have fuel to them, then undo the compression release and fire it up.
Thanks for that, Bob. Now, can you tell us what that ching is properly called? I used the term “check valve” since it works somewhat like one, but I know that isn't correct – I just couldn't remember the correct term from the last time this came up. Thanks.
If I correctly recall something I read on one of these forums, one of those banjo bolts incorporates a check valve in its construction/assembly. It is necessary that that particular bolt be in the correct location so it prevents backflow of fuel and loss of pressure in the lift pump. I *think* it was Bob Rooks who brought up this issue a couple years ago. Maybe he'll recall it and can give you more and better information.
You do have the pump timed correctly, right?
Welcome to CTOA as a new member!
You can get a rear remote kit from Ronald Macon at RanchHand Suply in Virginia. Check out his website for the details: http://www.ranchhandsupply.com/ Like Tommy at Affordable, Ronald is one of the really great dealers who will answer questions ad provides some great service and after-market goodies.
