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You're low on hydraulic fluid. The level on Chinese equipment sumps with screw-in dipsticks is properly checked with the dipstick merely resting on the hole, NOT screwed-in. You're getting a false reading and not filling the hydraulic sump sufficiently that way.
Yes, going up steep hills will often result in the hydraulic fluid drooling out of the breather vent. The simple cure for this is to unscrew the breather cap and replace it with a short length of pipe nipple. Then attach a hose to the nipple stub and route it up alongside one of the ROPS arms a ways and stick the breather cap back on it. The breather vent is now high enough that no fluid will be lost on hills.
As Tommy suggests, if you joined CTOA as member ($15 for life), all this information would have been available to you in previous posts. Believe me, if you own a Chinese tractor and want it to live a long and useful life, joining this site will really help that aim be realized. It's less than the cost of one oil filter, after all, and will do at least as much toward helping you properly maintain and/or repair your Chinese tractor.
Rich
I have a universal threading file – a simple triangular file of the 60° equilateral triangle persuasion. One size fits all 60° threads.
Okay, I actually have a few of them indifferent sizes as the bigger ones won't work well on smaller bolts. And they all take plenty of patience, compared to a threading file or a die! Us poor folks gots poor ways, right? 
One issue you may run into on things like that rod end is that they often use a very fine-pitch thread, not one commonly available in dies. I can't recall what my steering cylinder has, but I had the same issue you do and just chased the threads with the triangular file and it worked fine. I do have a metric die set so I think I would have used that if it would have worked, unless I was doing it in the field. It's been a few years and I can't recall exactly.
My experience with machinery indicates that if a system is rigid it will eventually break something, because there is no place to relieve transient stresses. My sway chains are the same setup as yours, in that they'’re not exactly on the same plane as the pivot for the lift arms, but the slop is tolerable to me. I’'d be hesitant to change to a rigid system.
Roger,
The cold cranking amps you need will depend on where you're located, temperature-wise. I'm in the tropics and my 304 Jinma tractor has direct injection so it starts with only a half-second's cranking. If you're in a place where the temps drop below freezing, then you'll want all the cranking power you can get – just buy the biggest battery that will physically fit in the battery well and you'll be fine. If you have really cold temps you may also want to invest in a block heater or other means of warming the oil and battery to get the best starting possible. Whatever you do, don't try to economize by getting a minimal battery – you'll only kill it off early due to overworking it. The price difference between a battery with 600 cca and one with 900 cca isn't that great.
Where did you mount it, Tom? I keep looking at mine and not finding a really convenient place to keep it even halfway dry. I may have to give in a build a box for it, but if I can avoid that I'd like to.
Which is why I and others recommend an inner reinforcing rod rather than external add-ons. Glad you could make it work.
As long as he lets the little alternator give the battery a full charge he should be okay. The inverter is/should be drawing from the battery primarily. I do agree that it will work the alternator pretty hard to keep up with the inverter if there's much draw, though. That's one reason I upgraded my alternator like you did, Bob. I want to mount my 2KW inverter on the tractor for things like pole saws and other tools, some of which will come close to the max the inverter will provide. I may even have to consider adding another battery. If so, I'll probably add a deep-cycle battery and an isolator/charger circuit like on an RV – use the deep-cycle for the tools and both of them for starting when/if needed. Just have to figure out exactly where to mount all that stuff!
If you just blew the seals, then the pump will dump the hydraulic fluid into the engine sump pretty quickly – that's a 7+ gpm pump so it doesn't take a lot of time to empty a 5 or 6 gallon hydraulic reservoir.
Since it did pump the fluid into the sump, it must be developing some fair pressure, so I would think that the pump might be okay and just need new seals. Often when these pumps blow they split the pump housing so you have pretty graphic evidence of the problem.
Since you replaced the seals and it seems to still pump fluid into the sump, I'd guess that the pump is still deadheading somewhere and has blown the new seals. I's start by checking the quick couplings and make sure that they're working correctly and coupled together so they can pass fluid around the system properly. You may want to remove the couplings and simply hard-plumb the hoses together for now to be sure the problem isn't in that joint. Other guys just remove the check balls form the QCs so they can't deadhead – your choice, I guess.
Thisis precisely whay, whenever anyoen asks aboutparts, I always recommend Tommy at Affordable Tractors. Even after the factory told him there was no hope, he persevered and found a solution for this guy. All that work for a sale that can't possibly net him sufficient profit to break even on the deal. That is what I call CUSTOMER SERVICE!
My hat is off to you once again, Mr. Laskowski!
Mike,
Contact Tommy at Affordable Tractor Sales – tommy@affordabletractorsalesco.com or check their website at http://www.affordabletractorsalesco.com/ or call him at the numbers listed in their ad in our advertisers/ sponsors section. If he doesn't have what you need, I'd frankly be astonished. Either new or used, I'm sure he can help you out – plus, he's a veritable font of great advice and assistance for all of us.
