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That's looking great, Len!
I'd suggest making an extended drain tube for the hydraulic, so when you pull the plug the stuff doesn't just run all over the topside of that nice new bracket. I should think that would work, anyway.
You don't say what the “valve box” is for – loader? Is it an open-center valve – it has to be in order to work with these systems. A closed-center type valve will deadhead the pump because there is no continuous flow through it.
Assuming that you have the correct style and size of valve assembly for your purpose, my best guess would be that one of your quick-disconnects in the loader lines has failed or is not seated correctly – this also deadheads the system. Many owners simply remove the QC's entirely and just screw the lines together to avoid this – I purchased after-market QCs from Ronald at RanchHand Supply and replaced the Chinese ones just to be safe.
If it is neither of those causes, you'll need to go through the entire system, preferably with a pressure gauge, to determine where the deadhead is occurring.
I agree with Bob – the smallest orifice in the lubrication system is usually the one in the pressure sender itself and they do get clogged. So I'd start by checking the sender and gauge first. A side note is that they are also probably the cheapest components to replace if needed.
On Chinese tractors, screw-in dipsticks are read while just resting n the hole, not screwed in. The engine dipstick just pushes in on mine, and is read pushed in. The cap in front of the seat is for the gear case – 80W/90 gear oil goes in there. Ditto for the front axle – there are fill ports on both ends of the axle and are usually painted red. The hydraulic lifter box has a fill port to the rear of, and under, the seat. Fill with AW32 hydraulic oil. Don't overfill or it just drools out when you go up steep hills. The injection pump uses motor oil, fill to mark on dipstick or to tell-tale hole, whichever yours has.
Given proper maintenance intervals, along with head bolt retorqueing at 100 hours and constant attention to keeping things lubed and bolts tight, your engine should last for a couple thousand hours or more before needing any tear-down. Ignore the proper maintenance and you can kill it in very short order. Diesel engines require good maintenance as they work very hard under heavy loads.
After I straightened mine for the third time I slipped a piece of appropriately-sized rebar inside it. Problem solved.
Grizz writ: “…but how do I know this is the right filter at all?”
Being one of those who knows little about such things, I'd just ask Bob Rooks and follow his advice.
As noted those rear remotes on the 284 probably aren't u to the job of running a backhoe. You might get enough out of them to put the hoe in position to travel, but not use it I'd guess. To make them live, you need to close the diverter/control valve located on the front of the seat base. That will deactivate the TPH and send the fluid to the remotes.
The 284 has just enough hydraulic pump capacity to handle the steering and loader – the pump is too small to make a hoe run well at all, from what I understand. You can get a bigger pump and a power-beyond port for your loader valve and plumb from there to the hoe, or you can go to a PTO-mounted auxiliary pump and reservoir – that would be my suggestion. Cost you a few hundred bucks but give you much better power and control and you'd also still be able to use your TPH with the hoe.
It just needs that little pause to get it's wind back and pump up the hoses, Grizz! I do the same thing whenever I have to lift a 'dozer – or even a bag of groceries.
Is there an accumulator in the line somewhere that may need time to fill? That could be it. Or it could just be haunted. I don't know diddly squat about crawlies that I can't step on and squish.
