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Check your voltage regulator – they can get loose in the socket and cause this problem, as can the key switch. I think there is a fuse on the back of the instrument cluster, too. You didn't say exactly which tractor this is, so I'm basing my thoughts on experiences with my Jinma 304 model.
Cool! That's the strangest damn thing I ever did see. You should try to propagate a whole bunch of those and sell them to fancy restaurants – you could be the asparagus king of haute cuisine with those. Isn't it amazing the strange things Nature will do sometimes?
Aw c',mon, Tin! That hole is within a tolerance of plus or minus an inch, whaddya want for a 'dozer? It ain't a race car, y'know!
You'd think that thing would ahve shaken the beejeezus out of the lathe when they were boring it at the factory, wouldn't you? Or maybe they just bore the hole in a drill press – by eye. Drill press man had some serious astigmatism, I guess…
Carl,
Yes, I saw the tang damage and that appears to be more an issue of inadequate engagement depth than one of radial loading. I think the scheme you mentioned for obtaining greater engagement depth for the tang will do the trick and solve the issue.
As far as eyeball visible signs of pump failure, I doubt you could determine anything much less than a catastrophic sort of failure mode – the clearances in a hydraulic pump are so tight you need very fine measuring instruments to determine wear that would make the difference between good performance and nearly no performance at all. Vacuum pumps are even worse to try to visually diagnose.
Best of luck with it!
It would seem to me that 90% of the load is on the outside of the tang anyway, so the hole in the middle shouldn't cause a significant different in ability to transmit power. Some, yes. A lot, no. Look at the multi-drive type screws that have combination Philips.slotted heads. They hold a straight blade screw driver just as well as a full slot, sometimes better.
My 304 Jinma did that same act and I puled the voltage regulator and lugged it back in which seemed to cure the problem. Something else to try, at least.
If you have quick disconnects on your hydraulic lines, uncouple them and recouple them – they can get wonky and cause a partial blockage or even a complete blockage. DO NOT operate the tractor with the lines uncoupled! You'll blow up the pump if you do.
Go here to sign up for CTOA forum access and then you can find the link under the Jinma section entitled “Major Tractor Woes in Paradise.”
Sorry, but there's just too much to copy it all over here.
Here’s a telling of my issues with this same problem: Jinma Oil Leak
You may have to joint he site to view it, but it is free. My tractor is a Jinma 304 and I had the same problem as you and solved it with a bit of help from Tommy. I learned a few tricks in doing it that I’ve detailed on that posting, so it should be worth your time to read it all. I did solve the problem completely for only a few bucks in gaskets and a good bit of hard labor.
