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I think what you want is a matched pair of roll pins, one nested inside the other, for proper strength. From another forum: “Get an 8x32mm and a 5×32 and nest them. That is, tap the 5×32 inside the 8×32.” Then put the assembled pair into the hole, preferably using a roll pin driver. A roll pin driver is like a drift punch with a little indexing tit on the end that keeps the pin from being inadvertently collapsed during insertion.
A somewhat better solution is to get spring pins instead of roll pins. Spring pins are coiled rolls that have greater strength and adapt to slightly out-of-round holes better than regular roll pins. They're available int he same metric sizes as roll pins, and you won't need (or want) to nest two of them.
You callous murderer! How could you???
What's going to happen to the world if we wipe out these poor defenseless little microbes? What about the next organism up the food chain that depends on diesel bugs for its dinner? And the one after that? Pretty soon the elephants will be dropping off, all because people though it was necessary and appropriate to kill off those annoying and unimportant little humbugs.
Bug huggers of the world unite to stop this senseless slaughter now!
I can't help you with the brake or clutch issues as I'm a wheelie guy myself, but the starter issue s probably no more than a bad ground or some corrosion on the connections. Happens all the time. Can you jump the solenoid connections with a screwdriver and get it to start?
Check the whole starting system from the battery ground connections all the way to the key switch – if you have sufficient battery voltage, of course. I'll bet you find out it isn't a problem with the starter or solenoid, though the solenoids in Chinese equipment can get dirty and fail to function. Not too tough to take it apart and clean it, though.
Glenn,'
You have apparently hit on the one hardware item that no one in the entire world of commerce seems to stock. My industrial suppliers list a wide variety of metric nuts in LH thread of all sizes and types, but not one single LH thread metric bolt. It seems bizarre that they sell all those nuts but no bolts to put them on – are there nut collectors out there who have no need of bolts but who buy nuts? Very strange!
I got curious and did some searching through the Thomas Register for this and found a number of companies that will make them for you. Of course they're gong to want you to buy a hundred thousand of them…
I would suggest you call the customer sales and service people at both McMaster-Carr and MSC Industrial Supply and ask them for help. They offer the nuts, after all. Who do they suggest you get your matching bolts from?
If they can't help you, contact a machine shop and have them make you one or two. They'll be pretty expensive but less expensive than a new belly mower, I'd think. An alternate possibility is removing the blade spindles and having them bored and tapped for either LH thread SAE bolts (which are available) or RH thread and using some Loctite to keep the bolts form loosening. The only reason they're LH thread is to prevent the rotation of the shaft from loosening the blots in use and Loctite would accomplish that just fine.
If you have a buddy with a lathe, you might talk him into making you a couple special LH bolts just for the challenge.
Unlikely that a local hardware would have what you need to make a hydraulic pressure gauge. First, you need a gauge that reads up to about 3,000 psi. Then you need the proper Chinese metric fittings to plumb it into wherever you want to read the pressure. This could mean metric pipe thread fittings, those difficult to find Chinese metric o-ring face seal (sort of) hydraulic fittings, or even metric machine bolt threads – depending on where it gets plumbed in.
Simplest is to put a pair of quick couplers on it and drop ion series into the loader connects if your tractor is equipped that way, but that will only read the maximum system pressure when you work the loader to stall point or when the pressure relief valve opens. Best to have a variety of fittings so you can adapt it to go in different places n the system.
I'd suggest calling Ronald at RanchHand Supply or Tommy at Affordable Tractor Sales and ask them if they sell a pressure gauge setup.
Note: working with hydraulic systems can be hazardous. System pressures typically run over 2,000 psi and even a tiny leak can eject fluid out that will blast its way into your skin in a split second. The result can be fatal. This is why you are always cautioned to test for the presence of a leak by using a piece of cardboard, not your hand.
As the others have said, the TPH does not supply down force. A hydraulic to link is dandy for changing the attack angle of the blade, but it really won't overcome the floating lift arms. I just add weight to mine and set the angle to take a hefty bite when I need to cut the tops off hills and such. Using the scarifiers first makes it go easier, too.
I really like the upgrade valve I got from Ronald – it makes a huge difference in how smoothly the loader functions. That said, I still have the old one I took off. It is the old-style valve, the square blocky one. If you want it, you can have it for the cost of shipping it. It might fit n the large Flat Rate box with the hoses, for sure without them.
The most frequent cause of inadequate clutch action on these tractors is the roll pins in the linkage shearing. They can do so and still leave some movement of the shaft so that the main clutch works but the PTO won't disengage. Check the connection between the clutch arm and the shaft to make sure the shaft is moving exactly the same as the arm. If in doubt, drive out the roll pin and replace it, but use two new pins – one nested inside the other. This makes a stronger connection.
When you take it apart, examine both the hole in the arm and the hole in the shaft to make sure neither one has become elongated by wear. If that has happened, you'll need to address that issue before replacing the pins or you'll be wasting your time.
All of this presupposes that your clutch pack is properly adjusted at the fingers. All the clutch fingers must be adjusted to have precisely equal spacing form the face of the throwout bearing first, then you adjust the linkage to get the proper pedal freeplay and the clutch should work properly.
There is also a roll pin connection between the clutch shaft and the fork that holds the throwout bearing, but if that one is bad you'll have to split the tractor to correct it.
When I moved to the VI from Arizona, I rented a U-Haul tandem axle box trailer and pulled it with my Chevy S-10. I toasted a full set of axle bearings on the trailer about halfway there, too. U-Haul had told me (in writing) that it wasn't possible to overload that 12' trailer – wrong! I made them put new running gear under the same box as I was unwilling to reload all the stuff in it.
I took it across a set of private scales at a quarry in Louisiana and the trailer alone was a hair over 17K.
I was 25 years younger, much poorer and some dumber in those days and would never do that again. I did drive only at night to minimize traffic and always drove well under the speed limit, but it was still a really dangerous, foolhardy thing to do. If I was just a regular guy and not a tool freak it wouldn't have been such an issue, but all those blacksmithing and construction tools get heavy really quickly. My S-10 did have the trailer towing package, and 6-ply tires, but it was still only a 1/2 ton rated truck. I consistently made it work like a 1-ton and only got 335,000 miles out of it.
“Hydraulic transmission fluid”???? The transmission on that tractor is designed to sue 80W90 gear oil, not hydraulic fluid. The hydraulic system is separate for the transmission and it uses AW32 hydraulic fluid.
It does sound like your clutch may be slipping. It also may need adjusting. Do you have all the manuals for the tractor and engine?
You didn't inadvertently lock the brakes did you? Just checking, it happens.
Does you tractor have the shuttle shift option?
