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I may have the model name designation of the Toyota wrong, Bob. My buddy has one he bought recently – a full-size 3/4 ton monster that easily and safely pulls a cargo trailer with 6,000 pounds of machine tools in it. That's why I specified a 3/4 ton full-size PU – I know I'm not much good with names of vehicles. Tacoma, Tundra, Tomato, what's in a name? It's a beefy truck.
I'd say get a heavy-duty 3/4 ton pickup with the 8' bed – why have only half a truck? Something like the Toyota Tundra, maybe. Get the trailer towing package if offered as an option, as it gets you a bigger cooling system, heavier brakes and usually a slightly different transmission/rear end setup. If you can spring for it, diesel is better for towing. Put an equalizing hitch on it and good 6-ply C-range tires and you ought to be fine with your trailer, provided you have a CDL if you cross any state lines or weigh stations.
Initially, these tractors are shipped with four manuals – the Tractor Owner's Manual, the Tractor Parts Manual, the Engine Owner's Manual, and the Engine Parts Manual. You really need all four manuals to have the complete information necessary to work on one knowledgeably. All the torque specs for the engine are in the engine manual, not the tractor manual, for instance. And so on. Dealers like Tommy at Affordable can supply you with all the necessary manuals if you tell them both the particular engine in your tractor and the tractor model number.
If your drive shaft is broken, a good welding and machine shop should be able to repair it. It takes some care, but it can be done.
Can you post a couple of pictures of the unknown part you're talking about? I think we'd be better able to offer useful suggestions if we could see it.
If you tear down the starter again, use aerosol brake cleaner to clean everything thoroughly. Almost all other spray can cleaners contain solvents that leave oily residues of some sort. Brake cleaner is the stuff to use since it leaves no residue to attract dirt and grit. Wait for it to dry and examine it very closely to be sure all traces of the gummed-up WD40 are gone (that stuff is a menace). Then throw away the WD40.
If you discover rust inside things, clean it up with a Scotchbrite abrasive pad or fine sandpaper, being sure to remove any residue. Be sure the slug (core) in the solenoid moves freely and easily and that the contacts are shiny clean. Then lube it up with the graphite spray.
If you can't find the graphite lock spray powder locally, you can use some sandpaper to create a graphite powder from the lead in a regular pencil. Blow it in where it needs to go with a small straw.
One common problem on Chinese tractors and dozers is that they don't supply adequate current to the stater solenoids. They use wire that is just too small, and they route the power to the solenoid through the starter switch and sometimes a safety cutout switch on the clutch. This is simple to fix: get a 12v universal accessory relay from the auto supply and some 10 gauge wire. Take the wire from the switch off the solenoid and hook it to the coil on the relay. Ground the other coil contact. Then run a piece of the #10 wire from the solenoid contact to the load contact on the relay. The other load contact on the relay goes directly to the battery, again using #10 wire. Now the switch is only handling the minimal current needed by the relay coil and the heavy lifting is handled by the relay contacts and heavy wire.
Aha! That may have been my issue, too. I'll try it.
Nope, I can post a full image, but no thumbnail. Drat! I'm still not getting the little camera icon in the photo pane, either.
It looks to me like it has splines on one side but not on the other and the two pictures were taken from different sides.
That's a really excellent mod, Bob! Elegantly simple solution to the problem and only adds one moving part to the assembly. Hard to beat that when you net a 2X take-up rate on the brake bands. That looks like one the factory should incorporate, though it is simple enough that it can be done by anyone with a few hand tools and a bit of time. Well, and a crawlie that need it…makes me wish you owned a wheelie so you could come up with similar great ideas for it that I could actually use myself.
The FarmPro is a Jinma, I believe and the 4WD lever is next to the left foot. Up for 4WD and down for 2WD. The biggest cause of lack of 4WD (when the lever is functioning) is that the front drive shaft has dropped its coupling balls. ( I simply hate when I lose my balls!)
You can check this by raising the front end off the ground and rotating one wheel – the other should turn the opposite direction. If not, the front differential has a problem. If it does, then check to see that the front drive shaft is turning – if not, it is uncoupled from the front differential. If it does, then the culprit is usually the rear coupling on the front drive shaft. It uses a grooved shaft and a cup receiver with grooves that match those in the shaft. (somewhat like a CV joint)
Six 8mm steel balls complete the hook up between the two. The cup is retained in position by a spring and circle clip. Often, the clip fails and the cup shifts back, dropping the balls. The rubber sleeve outside the coupling usually retains the balls, so when you pull the sleeve off to check things, be sure you put down a sheet of cardboard or a bedsheet so you can find the balls when they fall out. Usually it is just a matter of futzing around until you get the balls back in place and re-assembling the coupling. Some stiff grease in the cup will hold the balls in position while you jigger things back together.
If the front drive shaft is all coupled up okay at both ends and turns with the front wheels rotating, then the problem is inside the transfer case, most likely. Over my pay grade at present.
