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At a guess, I'd say you have a bad ground or other connection in the instrument cluster. It takes 30 minutes of heating/vibration to finally make contact like it should. With electronic gauges like the tach, the voltage difference between working and not working can be pretty minute. I'd suggest you go through the wiring from the sender to the tach, section by section, cleaning and tightening everything and, when you get to the instrument cluster, look for corroded or “crystallized” looking solder connections. Any that look suspect can be re-heated with a soldering iron or gun to “freshen them up.”
I will say that I think that $2750 for a used back hoe with no pump or sump is a good bit high, and I'd be worried that the thing is an “orphan” as far as I can tell from Koyker's website. They don't seem to make hoes any longer and I wonder how long they'll continue to stock parts – if they do. Admittedly, I'm kinda out of touch with current prices and supply, so I could be very wrong.
Len,
Do you have a manual that shows whether or not there's a PRV in the PTO pump? A groaning noise from a PRV is normal when you reach end of stroke, but if there's no PRV in the pump then a groaning noise from it is probably a bad thing. There should be a PRV in the hoe's control valve, I think, that should be opening under stall pressures like that. It may just need to be adjusted a bit, if you have a gauge.
I believe the JM 204 only has a single rear remote, which won't run a back hoe. You'd need a power beyond adapter for your loader control valve, I think.
Is this hoe a used unit? I wasn't aware that Koyker was making back hoes currently is why I ask.
My other concern, based on nothing but guesswork from the Koyker model number (the 75 part) is that you're talking about a 7-1/2 foot back hoe. I think that's a bit much hoe for a 200-series tractor and I'm pretty sure your hydraulic pump won't have sufficient volume to run it smoothly, i.e. compound moves. You would need to get a bigger pump or better yet, a PTO pump and separate reservoir so you have sufficient fluid volume for adequate cooling.
The Koyker KB60, which I believe is a 6' back hoe, would be more suited to a 200-series tractor.
The fill level should be read with the plug resting on the hole, not screwed in.
A number of these Chinese tractors seem topee hydraulic fluid when going up steep grades, due to the location of the breather on top of the lift box. Some guys just cobble together an extension of the breather by running a tube from it up the side of the ROPS and this solves the problem.
Almost any of the dealers who respond here, such as Affordable Tractor Sales, Blue Chip, etc, can supply you with parts if needed and will happily ship to OZ.
The QC's may be the culprit, they often are. Sure looks like the hydraulic pump blew the seal, at a minimum.
Well this is another fine mess you've gotten us into, Ollie!
There's definitely a problem of some sort there, but I have no idea why, of course. I suppose Hal will fix it. He must get sick of having to pick up after us…
No server in its right mind would allow you to post such a horrifying picture! That's positively obscene, all that white frozen stuff. Glad we've outlawed that here!
Don't use ether – sooner or later you'll wreck your engine with that stuff.
Some of the Chinese tractors came standard with an intake air pre-heater. You might check with the dealers like Tommy at Affordable or Philip at Circle G to see if they can get you one to put on your engine.
When you're digging in straight line like straddling a trench, the outriggers should be taking about 90% of the stress unless you're really reaching out as far as you can. So the bucket isn't doing much for you. When working at an angle you put it down to prevent sliding and to increase your footprint for leverage.
