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As noted, try the big industrial suppliers: McMaster-Carr, MSC Industrial Supply, Boston Gear. You may have to slightly modify and off-the-shelf shell, but it can be done.
Worst case scenario, you wind up pouring babbit bearings in place. That may be an old-fashioned method, but it works every time if you know what you're doing.
A volt lmeter will tell you where the charging fault lies. On my tractor, I had spurious drainage so I simply put a cut-off switch on the negative terminal of the battery and haven't lost a charge since. I do have a Delco 12Si 60+ amp alternator on my tractor, so any low battery condition is rapidly re-charged, too.
I added a relay to my starting circuit so that the solenoid gets power through a 10 gauge wire instead of the wimpy little 18 gauge wire that was OEM. Soved all the problems.
Sounds like the cylinder seals are bypassing when the fluid is warm enough to thin out some, but not bypassing so much when cold and thick. I suppose you could test this easily enough by draining and refilling with much heavier hydraulic fluid. Or just spend the $25 and put new seals in the cylinder and a new bonded washer and be done with it.
Dunno – sounds like you've discovered a new source of oil. Admittedly, not one you're likely to make much money on, but still interesting. I can't imagine where the oil came from.
I used a spray on liner material from Bondo and it became brittle way too soon in our high UV and ozone climate. For down here, drop in is better, I think.
Is he reservoir full? The power steering reservoir is a lot smaller than the main hydraulic sump and it doesn't take much of a leak to drop it down to where it won't work well. The other thing that could cause that issue is if the seals in the steering cylinder are leaking/bypassing – since it is a double-acting cylinder, leakage past the seals would cause pressure to build on both sides, neutralizing the power. The rebuild kit is cheap.
Sounds like water has gotten into the brake drum and is freezing. Heat the wheel drum with your heat gun and check to make sure the weep hole is clear so the water can drain out.
These are open center systems so no need to bleed anything.
I recommend using one of the link belts as they work better and make replacement a snap. The ones from Harbor Freight are perfectly fine.
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