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At 90 hours the thing is just about due for the 100-hour checkup so I'd suggest you go ahead and do all that now. Change the engine oil (15W-40 diesel service motor oil). Drain out some of the hydraulic fluid and examine it – if it is anything other than clear and clean, drain it all and replace it with new AW-32 hydraulic oil. Do the same for the transmission case – it should have something like 85W-90 gear oil in it. If you have any doubt at all about the quality of it, replace it. Lubricants are what make tractor stay alive and well. The fuel injector pump uses a few ounces of motor oil – you'll have to study the manual to decipher how yours is checked/added. Replace it with new.
I'd recommend replacing the hydraulic filter, if so equipped, and the oil filter, of course. Get good ones. Cheap filters are a false economy, believe me.
Ideally, at this time the head should be re-torqued and the valve lash set to factory specs. If you're not comfortable doing this and don't have a buddy who can help, I'd recommend paying a diesel mechanic to do it. Neglecting this may result i a blown head gasket before long, and improper valve lash means poor performance and reduced life.
Get a grease gun and lube every zerk fitting you can find. Search hard!
Drain and replace the coolant with a brand name SCA coolant suitable for diesel engines. The Prestone or whatever you use in your car is NOT the right stuff. Make sure the radiator is clean inside and out. Wash it carefully, flush the system if indicated by the presence of rust or sludge, and check the fan belt for condition and tension.
Go over all the nuts and bolts on the whole tractor and make sure they're tight. Tractors vibrate a lot and loosen bolts all the time. Don't forget the lug nuts, the worst offenders for loosening up.
Check battery fluid levels, check all electrical connections, and test the lights.
Examine the fuel in the sediment bowl. If there is any indication of contamination with anything, clean the fuel tank and refill with fresh diesel fuel. If you have to do this, you will probably have to re-prime the fuel system – instructions are in the manual or ask here.
Check and adjust your tire pressures to factory specs.
After you've done all this, get a spray can of 95% zinc cold galvanizing and touch up any rust spots and then paint with something that somewhat matches the factory color.
Jim,
One really common issue with these tractors is that the battery connections get corroded and/or rusted over time and then the battery won't turn the engine over and it also won't get a good charge from the alternator. I'd definitely start by opening all the cable connections and sanding the contact surfaces and re-assembling with a dab of dielectric grease. Replace the fuses – they're cheap and sometimes they can look fine but still be blown. Or check them with an ohmmeter if you have one.
I recommend that you install a relay in the glow plug circuit and another one in the starter circuit. The OEM key switch is not the most robust piece of electrical equipment ever made and putting relays in the high-load circuits takes the strain off the switch contacts. If you do a bit of searching here and on other forums you'll fins threads covering how to do this. Your local auto ports store should carry simple 12 volt accessory relays that will work just dandy.
On my Jinma I had an issue with the voltage regulator not making good contact in the fuse block and that caused the same sort of issue you're having, too. If the fuses all check out and the wiring looks good, you might want to check your regulator.
I'll take a keyed shaft over a compression hub any day. A keyed hub can pretty much always be removed later, but if a compression hub slips a bit under load it can and will weld itself to the shaft by friction galling and have to be cut off with a torch. Seen it happen.
David,
Unless you have a milling machine I'd forget the half-moon (Woodruff) key and go with a straight square key. It is reasonably easy to cut a keyway in that shaft using a good cape chisel. That's the way it was done before milling machines and it still works. A 3/16″ key would be appropriate for that size shaft, though you could use 1/4″ if you had to. I think you'll find that most 1″ bore sheaves have a 3/16″ keyway, though.
Pick up a 3/16″ cape chisel from a hardware store or, preferably, an industrial supply. You'll want to get a good one, not a cheap Harbor Freight one or you'll drive yourself crazy having to sharpen it every three cuts. Take shallow cuts, just enough to peel a sliver up, until you get the trough properly established and then yu can be a bit more aggressive. You want the finished keyway to be just a couple of thousandths more than 3/32″ deep. Takes me about twenty minutes to cut one that way, and I've done dozens of them over the years. I find it easier to do that than to horse a heavy motor up onto a mill table. 🙂
Unless the shaft has a step, or is tapered, a locknut on the end won't do much for you. But most sheaves have one or more set screws that tighten onto the shaft, usually one of them indexed over the keyway. If you're not planning to really load the sheave heavily, you can cheat and just drill a dimple(s) in the shaft to accept the end of the grub screw (British term for set screw).
Man Bob, that floor is shiny! Looks like any oil you spilled wold bead up like water on that.
Stephan,
You can't get rebuild kits for these pumps as far as I know. You just buy a new one and replace it.
Any good diesel mechanic should be able to time the injection pump through the procedure of “spill timing”, which is a standard technique used on all sorts of diesels. If your mechanic doesn't know about spill timing it may be time to look for a different mechanic. The initial pump timing specification is listed in the engine manual that should have come with the tractor. If you don't have the manual you can order one when you order the injection pump.
I'm surprised that your 2011 tractor doesn't have a spin-on fuel filter – my 2007 has one. You can easily add one, just order one from a marine supply to get one that is better built than most.
If you're using the WD-40 as a penetrating oil, a much more effective solution is a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. I haven't found anything that loosens frozen bolts better, and I've tried all the proprietary products like B'Laster, Liquid Wrench, Kroil, etc. Doesn't seem to matter what type of ATF you use, either. You need to keep it in a pump can that has Viton seals or it will eat the rubber.
If I understand correctly, you swapped the #1 and #2 injectors and the #1 cylinder doesn't fire with either injector, right? You say you are getting “raw” fuel from the injector in the #1 position, which indicates to me that the #1 pump in the injector pump assembly is faulty and not delivering sufficient pressure to atomize the fuel. You should get an atomized spray of fuel from the injector, not a stream or spurt.
In short, if I have things understood correctly, you need your injector pump rebuilt (if even possible, which I doubt) or replaced. Check with Tommy at Affordable Tractor Sales or Ronald at RanchHand Supply for a new injector pump.
If you do have to replace the pump, be absolutely sure that every other aspect of the entire fuel system from the tank to the injectors themselves is absolutely clean and free of moisture or diesel bugs. If you put in a new pump and still have water or diesel bugs, you'll soon ruin the new pump, too.
