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Very well put, Tin! And that is exactly why I constantly recommend that people get their parts from Tommy or Ronald. I've dealt with both of them and both have given me a tremendous amount of advice and guidance that I couldn't get anywhere else. I don't bother price shopping them, since they offer the service I need when I need it. No one could possibly discount an item sufficiently to offset that service so there's no point wasting any time shopping around.
I should note that there probably are other dealers here who are equally knowledgeable and helpful as Ronald and Tommy; I just haven't had occasion to deal with them so I recommend those I have personal knowledge of.
In looking at that new style brake band, it looks like something that it would be easy enough to fabricate and then have the local brake shop line it with segments. Then you just have to get the old one out and you could snake the new one in, right?
I haven't tried that with those particular fittings, but I've done it with many others having crimped sleeves and it works just fine. I've also made crimp sleeves from steel tubing and crimped them with a modified pair of Vise Grips which also worked fine on stuff with less than 200 psi pressure. If you're using a reinforced hose it takes surprisingly little clamping pressure t mae them stay on even slightly swelled nipple fitting.
I think he's referring to changing to a smaller diameter pulley on the alternator to increase alternator rpm. The 1-wire alternators typically don't begin to develop full charging voltage until the engine hits around 1400 rpm, due to the fact they're designed for gasoline engines in cars. On tractors they may not put out full voltage until the engine is around 1400-1600 rpm unless the pulley is changed. Of course, if you go small enough to make much of a difference then you have belt slip due to low contact patch…
That photo is from Larry Gugliotta and he's a very careful, thorough guy so you can rely on it to be correct – for his tractor. If your dozer has the same engine, a TY395 E3, then you should be fine to follow it. The general locations and such should be correct for any of the TY395 engines. As Larry noted in his original post about the procedure, the 65# setting for the rocker shaft support bolts is one he made up since the manual does not indicate a torque setting for those. He based that on published specs for the size/grade of bolt so it should be fine.
Yea verily, what Tin said. The valve lash is the gap between the end of the push rod and the rocker, and therefore the rocker arm assembly must be installed and torqued to spec before attempting to set the lash. The valve lash setting is measured when the piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression stroke of each cylinder, so you have to have things together so you can watch the action of the valves to determine when the valves are both closed and the piston is at TDC. Hopefully, your engine has a timing mark on the crankshaft pulley or harmonic balancer, but if not you can still get close enough. You just have to watch the valves on the #1 cylinder go through their cycle a couple of times while you roll the engine over and you will see when the intake valve opens and then closes all the way – that is Bottom Dead Center on the piston travel. Continue to rotate the crankshaft (clockwise) for another 180° and that will put the piston at TDC on the compression stroke. Now you can set the valve lash to the proper clearance for the intake and exhaust valves on the #1 cylinder. Follow the same procedure for each cylinder, making sure you are at TDC on the compression stroke and not on the exhaust stroke.
What Bob said – the compression release will be removed when you pull the rocker shaft to get at the head bolts. That leave either injectors or the glow plugs, or just more muscle. I use the compression release gimmick with the vise grips only when setting the valve lash after the rocker shaft is all re-assembled.
I try to follow the recommended torque sequenced when re-torquing. As Bob said, that's generally starting in the middle and working out and across to keep the stress changes minimized and generalized, rather than bunching them up in one area and risking a warped head. Bob's description of it as a “star” pattern is a good one – just like you would draw a 5-point star – up then over then down then over the other way and so on. Great description.
I don't know what you man by “class I” or “class II ” bolts – measure the bolt diameter and then use the torque figure for that diameter bolt. Tables are available online. If you're referring to the head bolts, they should be torqued to 125 ft/lb. If you're simply re-torquing the head, then you just loosen one bolt at a time and torque to spec. I generally sneak up on the torque setting in two or three increments, but I've been told that's unnecessary on a re-torque and I'm sure that's true. Old habits just die hard. Don't loosen more that one bolt at a time or you risk warping the head.
You can loosen the glow plugs or the injectors to make it easier to turn the engine over for setting the valve lash, or what I do is use a pair of Vise-Grips to activate the compression release once I've determined where I am on the compression cycle of the #1 cylinder. After that, each successive one should be 270 degrees further around, as I recall. I usually just watch the intake valve action.
Well, if we're down to working on square corners versus radiused corners, then I think things are in pretty good shape! Either that, or we're straining at a gnat while trying to pass a camel…
Keep up the good work, Hal!
As I said, I've not had any issues using Firefox.
That said, I do understand that you're trying to get some fine tuning done on the site Hal, and that always means there may be temporary glitches when something you try doesn't work out the way you expect. The fact that web browsers (and there are a bunch of different ones) change the way they work almost as often as I change underwear can't make it easy for a web designer, either. And the few dudes who can do it really, really well charge an arm and a leg, I know.
One guy I know who hosts/manages websites always has a mirror of each site that he can do the tweaking on first and then copy it over the real thing when he has the bugs worked out. I have absolutely NO idea how much effort that stuff all is, as I don't know diddly squat about website design or management. I'm just passing along something I heard him say once.
Best of luck with it, Hal! I'd long ago have thrown up my hands in disgust and walked away from the whole thing. You are far more patient than I am.
