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I'm confused – didn't you get the same question asked and answered on another forum? The person who answered the question stated that he had drawn the diagram himself, so it is evidently not available elsewhere, is it?
Glad you got it back up and running right, Hal! I definitely missed it when it went down and was asking on other forums if anyone knew anything. I'm actually relieved to hear it was a malware attack rather than health or personal problems. I was worried you'd maybe been taken sick or your friend the mayorette had pitched you in the pokey or something.
If you don't download those porn sites and pirated MP3s you won't get malware, you know.
Or, for about twenty bucks you can get a hundred feet of clear vinyl tubing and make a water level that will get you within 1/8″ over any distance it will reach and around any obstructions, too. Sometimes old, simple technology is a good solution.
For that matter, you can get awful darn close with a good 4' level with a set of improvised gun sights taped to it. After all, a basic construction level or transit isn't much more sophisticated, just more expensive. Of course, with the low-tech optical methods you'll need a stick-man, which the snazzy new laser stuff with wireless targets eliminates.
You run the PTO at whatever RPM that particular implement calls for. Each implement has its own gearbox designed to run the thing at the proper final speed based on a given input rpm and you should follow it.
With a small PTO generator like the 15KW unit that Harbor Freight sells (or used to), they call for 540 RPM PTO speed since that is the common one. Generally speaking, if you have an implement that takes a six-spline PTO shaft it is designed to run at 540 rpm. Better generators have both voltmeters and frequency meters on them so you just set the throttle to yield 120 volts at 60 HZ with the load you're putting on the generator.
If you need to know what engine RPM yields a given PTO speed, you can get inexpensive shaft tachometers, either optical or mechanical, from HF and other suppliers for about twenty bucks.
Since the pre-heater is basically an injector and glow plug arrangement, I'd say use enough juice for one glow plug. Or, do as Bob suggests and use 10 gauge wire and a 10 amp fuse. If the fuse blows try a 15 amp – the 10 gauge wire can handle 15 amps, no sweat.
Geez Bob, I'd have thought this would be the perfect opportunity to delve into some non-Euclidean geometries. A nice little exercise in mechanical topology, as it were.
If it was here, I'd buy it in a heartbeat – I could make that back in a couple of months doing driveway maintenance for folks up here in the rainforest.
The info on head bolt torque and valve lash setting is by Larry Gugliotta who posts on Chinese Tractor World forum – Larry is a really sharp, helpful guy who has given me a lot of assistance on tractor things over the past few years. I didn't see much else in that Wikipedia article that was worth too much.
That's why I live down here. I think our record low was 64° a few years back – i remember it was really cold.
That is a shame, indeed.
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